Compressor

[bmfenn]

This is my first post, although I've been lurking here for about a year while I build my detached 14x28 garage. I just picked up a Craftsman pro 60 gallon compressor. It was a discontinued floor model, and I got it for $180:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00918419000P#reviewsWrap

I'm starting to plan the plumbing, and I've gone through so many threads on here I'm looking for suggestions/criticism. I've been reading alot about keeping water out of the lines. But, as I don't have a huge shop, I'm trying to be relatively compact. I read on here about people using trans coolers in their lines, and I have one laying around I may use. My plan so far is this:

Flex line
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=905-1224&catname=hydraulic

to 1/2in filter
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331878_200331878

to desiccant dryer
http://www.harborfreight.com/desiccant-air-dryer-97686.html

to trans cooler
http://www.jegs.com/i/B&M/130/70268/10002/-1?CT=999

down a 1/2" black steel drip leg, with a ball valve at the bottom, a tee reducing to 3/8, to regulator and black pipe to points of use.

I did a rough drawing in photoshop to illustrate

 

[lametec]

I'd put the desiccant after the trans cooler with a drip leg before the desiccant. Should make the desiccant last longer.

Also make sure your drops come off the top of the trunk line and have a drip leg on the end of the trunk line.

 

[Warrenator]

I would put the cooler in before the filter/separator, that way the warm air containing moisture can cool and condense before it goes to the separator. Maybe also a little fan blowing on the cooler, switched on when the compressor is running......

 

[creativecars]

Congrads, great price on that compressor. I usually recomend a 2 stage, but for that kind of money its a great start. Personally, I would put a 1/2" gate valve then the flex hose going to the dessicant dryer. You will have pleanty of cooling if you use steel pipe to plumb your lines and the trans cooler would not be necessary. I would then use a gate valve then regulator/filter assembly at each of the drops.

 

[Major Ramifications]

Yes, put some water/**** catchers in before the dessicant. Also, run the main pipe up high, with your drops rising up from it and then coming down to the point of use with a drip leg and ball valve. Put a regulator/filter at each point of use, not in the main line. An extra ball valve at the end of the system is good for clearing the whole thing out.

Like this:
http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/images/pipe-layout-1.gif/$File/pipe-layout-1.gif

 

[p1mlb03]

May want to consider cooling the charge first before you hit the water sep filter. If the charge is cooled first you will drop alot of the water into the water sep. You do not want to put your dessicant dryer that close to the compressor, you will be drying the dessicant out way to often. Better to condition the air just before your tools. I went through this earlier this year. Here is how I ended up... Works great for my needs.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50946

 

[bmfenn]

The compressor doesn't have a regulator on it, just a 1/2" gate valve. Cut in is 120psi, and cut out is 150psi.
So would something like this be better?
2' Drip leg then trans cooler, followed by a 2' drip leg.
water separator, then desiccant dryer, then up the wall, pipe ran along ledger board, with drops coming off the top of the pipe. regulators and separator at each outlet. I'm trying to get as much water out of the system before it even goes up the wall .

 

[larry_g]

What is your reasoning for puting the cooler after the tank? Most small systems are going to release most of the heat through the tank walls. Do you know the pressure rating of the trans cooler? This cooler also has 3/8" fittings, are they going to flow what you need?

What are you doing with this air system that requires such cool dry air?

lg
no neat sig line

 

[creativecars]

I agree with larry, I live in the mid-west where it is very humid most of the time. I have never needed more than proper steel plumbing and filter/regulator at the points of usage. I drain the tank at least once a day and crack open the drain on the filter every so often.

 

[blazsawgras]

congrats on getting such good deal. i also have craftsman compressor had it about 10 years now and had good service.

 

[Major Ramifications]

The compressor doesn't have a regulator on it, just a 1/2" gate valve. Cut in is 120psi, and cut out is 150psi.
So would something like this be better?
2' Drip leg then trans cooler, followed by a 2' drip leg.
water separator, then desiccant dryer, then up the wall, pipe ran along ledger board, with drops coming off the top of the pipe. regulators and separator at each outlet. I'm trying to get as much water out of the system before it even goes up the wall .

You can try to remove the moisture when it is hot and vaporized, but it is much easier and more effective to let the cold metal pipes condense the moisture so that the traps can catch it.

 

[930dreamer]

This is how I started mine. I have a lower valve and drain line not shown in this picture. The coalescing filter hasn't had any moisture in it yet.

 

[bmfenn]

I have the trans cooler laying around, So I thought i might use it, Being that it is 3/8, I most likely wont now. The main reason for the cooling and drying in the beginning was because I've been debating black pipe, or going with a rapidair system, for the ease of install. I don't have a pipe threader, so all the threading would need to be done at the store, or buying pre-threaded lengths, which can add up costwise. I have read that people have had issues with moisure in rapidairs, so I was trying to cool and dry as much as possible before going up the wall.

 

[pipsters]

Air moving @ 24 CFM (typical air tool usage) in 1/2" pipe is moving at almost 300' (feet) per second. I really don't see it cooling down at all in the small pipe runs people use in their garage, especially when used at a constant rate as it heats up the pipe itself over 2-3 mins of using the air. I of course have no proof but would love to test it out and measure it some day, PVC vs. iron pipe on a 50' run. I would guess that the 0.16 secs it is in the pipe doesn't cool down either appreciably. Also another thing to consider is you can run 1" PVC pipe rated at almost ~500 PSI for fairly inexpensively, with a flow rate of only 73' (feet) per second. Much slower rate. Plus a larger surface area. PVC pipe also has a smoothness value of 40% more than iron pipe when new, and the amount goes up the longer the iron pipe is used.

Air cools when you expand it, I don't know how a drier works but I can only assume it expands the air then removes the moisture then compresses it again. Repeat a few times and you have dry air.

Air moving thru the trans cooler would move so quickly that I bet it hardly would make a difference unless you hooked a few together and submerged them in cold water or below ground.

 

[lametec]

Put the trans cooler between the pump and tank. Should have enough flow there.