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Computer in the garage

donhd04

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I am looking for ideas to put an older computer in the garage and was wondering if anyone has had any problems with heat or cold. My garage is not heated but attached to the house and i do have a kerosene heater that will run from time to time. Also if anyone has an idea on how to run regular home speakers instead of computer speakers to it so i can use an ipod, would be helpful also with later hooking up a tv and surround sound.

I thought i had read on hear before about that but can't seem to find it again, so sorry if this is a rehash.

Also please post pics if you have them.
 
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Dan0myte

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Computers love the cold. The colder the better. :thumbup: It's heat they can't stand.

Download a program called SpeedFan which will monitor your CPU temp and motherboard temp and display it in your windows taskbar.
http://www.filehippo.com/download_speedfan/
If you see values higher than 60 Celcius (140 Far.) you're doing damage to your machine.

In terms of hooking it up to a home theatre system, sure! Just pop in at any electronics store and pick up a Mini-RCA to RCA adapter cable.
StereoMini-RCA.jpg

Plug the one end into your soundcard and the other into your stereo system. Done.
 

Stuey

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Don't worry about it being too cold, unless there are condensation issues.

You can NOT hook up home speakers directly to a computer - you need to connect the computer to an amplifier with the cable shown in the above first response.

LCDs monitors do have operating temperature ratings, so check the manufacturer's specifications.
 

61scout80

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Crestwood, KY
if you fill out your location in your profile we could have a better idea of what "hot" and "cold" is for your garage. My "cold" is much different from that of someone in Alaska....

to feed power from the computer to your chosen method of sound amplification you can use the cord dan0myte posted, or look for a double male to feed into an auxiliary input on a ratio. Looks like an ipod headphone jack on both sides.
 

Stuart in MN

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If you look at the specifications for most personal computers, they aren't rated for use below 32 degrees F. That's not to say they'll mysteriously shut off if it gets colder than that, I suspect condensation is the manufacturer's big concern.
 

Rolling_Thunder

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Ive had a Desktop in my garage for the last 4 years with no issues. Its only heated and AC's when Im in it!! I build this little cabinet for it over the winter.
DSCN0199.jpg
 

the spyder

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If you look at the specifications for most personal computers, they aren't rated for use below 32 degrees F. That's not to say they'll mysteriously shut off if it gets colder than that, I suspect condensation is the manufacturer's big concern.

Which systems are you looking at?

Condensation really is not a concern, I am basing this off of 10 years as someone who has built a PC in a fridge, liquid cooled dozens of towers, and even dry ice chilled his PC, a good PC can take a beating. If you lets say, quickly raised and lowered the temperature in a humid environment, yes this would cause a issue.

I have a client who owns a Plant Nursery- you want to talk about hell for a PC? Try shoving one in a greenhouse surrounded by dirt, water, and workers who try to water the equipment :-\
Freezing winter temps, blistering summers, humid environment. Not a single hardware failure (LCD, tower, ect) in 3 years. These are just generic Dell Optiplex towers. You typically can find them at school auctions, on CL, ect.

I just drag the beater laptop out when I am working in the garage.
 
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pcmeiners

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Below 32 degrees....
Condensation, forming miniscule ice crystals on a platter surface could be instant death for a disk (with wide temperture/humidity variations), another issue is the bearing grease losing viscosity, third issue could be electronic components temporarily going off spec due to the cold temperature.

As mentioned on in the other thread your best off enabling sleep mode, which will produce a small amount of heat in the CPU (only a few watts). Leaving it on in normal mode, 24 hours a day, will cost >$150 per year (by NYC electric rates), and thats just for a CPU with a small power supply... not including monitor, printers etc. Years ago a machine would not startup below 40 degrees.
 
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mikeyr

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its been said already, unless you are talking below freezing, I would not worry.

I did wire mine into a dedicated circuit so that when I weld (both MIG and TIG) I don't cause too many power fluctuations to the computer, I remember in my old garage the UPS beeping whenever I TIG'd, with the dedicated circuit it does not happen.
 
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Cameronl

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If you're just going to use the computer for web access, or have very little need for a lot of storage space, you can run a completely flashdrive-based Linux OS (Damn Small Linux is a favorite of mine. Loads completely into RAM for very little flash drive access. Puppy Linux also works well in spite of it's cutesy name). Then you can avoid any temp sensitive moving parts (hard drives, CD and DVD drives). Flash drives have gotten so big, you can run some pretty impressive office software and still have room for a number of files.

Best yet, they work really well on older cast-off computers. You can also access files, including media files, from another 'puter across a wireless network (warning, configuring wireless network cards are the biggest PITA with Linux).
 

Stuart in MN

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Which systems are you looking at?

This is from the owner's manual for a Dell Inspiron 700m:

Temperature range:
Operating 0° to35°C(32°to95°F)
Storage –40° to 65°C (–40° to 149°F)

This is just one example, but virtually all consumer PCs have similar specifications. Industrial PCs often have a higher operating temperature range (up to 40 or 50 degrees C) but they still are typically only rated down to 0 degrees C.

edit: I just checked the manual for my Macbook Pro and it says this:
Operating temperature: 50° F to 95° F (10° C to 35° C)
Altitude: 3048 m (10,000 ft.) maximum
Relative humidity: 0% to 90% noncondensing
 
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scbird94

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Sauk Rapids, MN
I have an old Itronix "gobook" thing (think ibm toughbook) in the garage that has fluid/chemical resistant sealed keyboard, all ports and plugs are gasketed, has light up keyboard and touch screen.

Also has touch screen and i think i could pound nails in with it.

My cousin gave it to me (city worker) when the police dept got new computers, i think the 5.0 used to roll with it in the squads

Perfect shop computer. I got mine free (haha) but you can ebay them for around 500 bux?
 
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donhd04

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Well i live in central ky right outside lexington (home of UK basketball) and last year the inside temp got down to just below freezing, like a degree or two. I have a Dell e500 or something, but its a little over 4 or maybe 5 years old, I can't remember. I don't have condensation and im using it for vehicle maintenance records, downloads for harley ecm's, power chips for cars and trucks and some internet stuff.

I liked the info on the cord for the home stereo but can yall elaborate more on the amplifier hook up? I have a older home stereo thats a 5.1 with a subwoofer and would like to hook it into the computer also so my sound from the computer will run through the home stereo. Can that be done?
 
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Jeepskate

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You should be fine. I've had older PC's in my garage for several years now with no problems. The cord plugs into the speaker jack on the back of your PC (assuming you have built-in sound or a sound card installed) and then into the back of your amp just like any other component with RCA connectors like a tape deck, CD/DVD player, etc would.
 
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jmack

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I liked the info on the cord for the home stereo but can yall elaborate more on the amplifier hook up? I have a older home stereo thats a 5.1 with a subwoofer and would like to hook it into the computer also so my sound from the computer will run through the home stereo. Can that be done?

The problem with using a stereo mini to RCA adapter cord as others have shown here is that the speaker output on your standard computer is for speakers and not a true line-level out. As a result you generally get some undesirable noise.

A better solution (what I did) is to install a sound card that has an optial-audio out. Most receivers, even from 5 years ago will have optical inputs.

Here's an example of a PCI soundcard with optical out for a mere $10. That should work fine for you - it can even handle 5.1 surround if you want to play a dvd through the computer.
 

jmack

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One other thing to consider for a computer in the garge would be an impervious keyboard. Adesso makes a line of flexible silicone keyboards that can stand up to anything and even be washed when they get dirty - a good idea for something that will sit in the garage. They can be had for about $20.
 

ddrewyor

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Rolling Thunder - is that a Radio Shack intercom to the left of the monitor? I think I have the same one :)

Dave
________
Vaporizer review
 
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Kevin54

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One of he reasons you could get humidity in the garage and do a computer damage is for instance......you pull a car in with snow and slush on it and it starts melting. You run a little heat in the garage. The humidity would get extremely high. Then if it gets below freezing you could actually have ice buildup. If it were me, I would leave the computer on so even in below freezing temps, the computer would be above freezing. A computer can take a beating. Look at all the ones in all types of factory work enviroments.
 
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donhd04

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One other thing to consider for a computer in the garge would be an impervious keyboard. Adesso makes a line of flexible silicone keyboards that can stand up to anything and even be washed when they get dirty - a good idea for something that will sit in the garage. They can be had for about $20.

And where might one acquire such a monster as that there keyboard?

BTW THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR LOTS OF GREAT INFORMATION AND HOW ABOUT SOME PICS OF SPEAKERS IN THE GARAGE.
 

Jeepskate

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The problem with using a stereo mini to RCA adapter cord as others have shown here is that the speaker output on your standard computer is for speakers and not a true line-level out. As a result you generally get some undesirable noise.

A better solution (what I did) is to install a sound card that has an optial-audio out. Most receivers, even from 5 years ago will have optical inputs.

Here's an example of a PCI soundcard with optical out for a mere $10. That should work fine for you - it can even handle 5.1 surround if you want to play a dvd through the computer.

FYI: many of the PC's made in the last few years have software configurable jacks. They'll attempt to detect what you've plugged in (speakers, headphones, microphone) and can be configured for a 'line out' signal. I use a Motion Computing tablet PC in the car when I travel for nav and MP3's and it works like that as does my main desktop PC in my home office (I'm an IT geek, so I have tons of stuff and I work for an e-recycler which is a bit like letting a junkie loose in a crack house).
 

djd99

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And where might one acquire such a monster as that there keyboard?

BTW THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR LOTS OF GREAT INFORMATION AND HOW ABOUT SOME PICS OF SPEAKERS IN THE GARAGE.

adesso makes some nice keyboards, I have one of there mini wireless ones....

you can either get one at new egg or amazon or even ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Adesso-AKB-...mQQptZPCA_Mice_Trackballs?hash=item35a50186c3

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823166054&cm_re=Adesso-_-23-166-054-_-Product
 

autowerks9

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Oct 21, 2008
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I have had a pc in the garage over the past 3 years since it has been built as well as a flat monitor mounted on the wall. It is fully insulated and onlt heated when I am in and it
is really cold out..NO problems with mine.
 

lilredex

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Toronto
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I liked the info on the cord for the home stereo but can yall elaborate more on the amplifier hook up? I have a older home stereo thats a 5.1 with a subwoofer and would like to hook it into the computer also so my sound from the computer will run through the home stereo. Can that be done?

I did something similar. My old (10 yr) computer moved into the basement to essentially play music on my vintage (1975) Pioneer system. Used the cord pictured and ran it from "audio out" to "tape in" on the pioneer receiver. Also have a 5 disc CD player twinned to that input. All works like a charm. Spent some time last winter converting much of my vinyl to CD, so now I can program multi hours of music (that I like) and only have to get up for a beer and put wood in the stove.

For the converting, I used a trial version of Golden Records.

http://www.nch.com.au/golden/index.html
 

gumbudah

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Northern Wisconsin
Well, I havn't had as good of experience as others. I had an older machine in my garage for a bit, and every time I'd try to start it when the garage was cold (-20F) it'd take a couple of re-boots to get going. I'm working on a plan to put a small heater inside the case, and also put one somehow near a monitor to keep it say +40F or so.
A fella here: http://astronomy.mdodd.com/observatory.html placed a honeywell electric baseboard heater thermostat with a 75watt light bulb inside his case to keep it up to temp.

I'm thinkin of something without a bulb.
I'm thinkin of using a bit of heat tracing (usually to keep pipes from freezing) somehow placed inside the computer, hooked to a similar thermostat would be a good option. I just don't like the idea of the light bulb... I'd tap into the power supply of the PC upstream of all of the 12V conversion to get 120 V directly from the computer rather than trying to power it with another cord. Should be 100W or less, so that should be no problem for the power cord to handle...

I'd also like to build a case of some sort for the montitor, just to protect it a bit. Something like this would be great http://www.clearpc.ca/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=114&osCsid=54ebd6ca5d937b85cb7e4de5b988ff5c but for $190, I should be able to come up with something myself.
 
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kbs2244

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If it is an attached garage you can put the CPU box indoors and run the screen and keyboard with long cords through a small hole in the wall.
 

Dan0myte

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Nov 18, 2009
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Regina, Saskatchewan
Below 32 degrees....
Condensation, forming miniscule ice crystals on a platter surface could be instant death for a disk (with wide temperture/humidity variations), another issue is the bearing grease losing viscosity

Ditch the mechanical hard drive. Problem solved.

Option A: Buy a solid state hard drive (SSD). The cheapest are around $100 right now.

Option B: Boot from a USB flash drive. Lots of Linux-on-a-stick distributions out there that don't even require you to have a hard drive anymore.
 
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