Computer Network advice

[softailgarage]

I'm having problems getting a good wi fi signal in the garage. Now, the house isn't that big, its your basic 4 bedroom home. I set up the network with a Linksys E2500/N600 Dual Band 300+300 router. As I said the garage signal is weak so I'm going to set up a second network just for the garage itself. I have 2 different routers I can use, A. Linksys WRT120N or B. Linksys WRT54GS. I have one cable ISP and using a 3 way splitter will run a cable to the garage. Now, questions are 1. can I have 2 networks with one ISP? 2. which router would be best 3.will using a 3 way splitter weaken the signal? Any advise will help

 

[daveroy]

You can't get a second network in the garage by splitting the cable, unless you have another cable modem, and pay for second network service.

But run cat5 from main router to garage, and throw another slave router on it there. Will take a bit of configuration, but works great.

 

[CNGsaves]

I'm no guru but have done several setups in homes/work, and sounds like you're confused on cable modem/wiFi setup you have.

Sounds like you have cable modem coming in over Coax (ie "thru" a splitter). What I'm used to working with for cable companies is Motorola "surfer" cable modem and then whatever WiFi router you prefer. The coax is only used to get internet/ISP signal to the cable modem. Cable companies will only let you have one cable modem with one unique MAC address that they enable.

You could then approach your garage problem three ways:
A) hardwire a single connection to your computer in garage from your existing router (ie Cat 5e/6 ethernet ran through conduit out to garage).
B) hardwire a ethernet connection (Cat 5e/6) from your router out to garage where you'd have a secondary wiFi router
C) no wire out to garage, but instead have WiFi booster device in garage to amplify the signal out there (ie grabs house signal and boosts it)

 

[softailgarage]

OK. Right now I have the motorola surfer modem connected to the E2500. In the garage I'm using a Linksys USB adapter. Now I also have another motorola modem I was going to connect to a second router in garage. Running a hard line from the master bedroom to the garage will be a *****, it'll have to go thru the attic (bad knees & back) but I suppose could be done as a last resort. If I do this do I wire the cable to a router or directly to the computer? sorry, not to geeky tonight.

 

[wssix99]

You'll need one "router" with your "modem" at the spot where your main service comes in. Your wires run out from your "router" and everywhere you need to split the wire, you'll put a "switch".

You can use any router as a switch by not hooking up the "internet" port on the back. Just plug your inbound wire to ports 1-4 and our outbound wires in the other non-internet ports.

 

[mike_81]

You can use any router as a switch by not hooking up the "internet" port on the back. Just plug your inbound wire to ports 1-4 and our outbound wires in the other non-internet ports.

its not quite so easy as not using the internet port. you have to disable security items, the DHCP server, etc otherwise you will run into issues.

Its certainly possible but not quite plug and play.


@OP: unless you plan to pay for another cable internet connection plan to use cat5e. End of story.

 

[Steevo]

If all you need is wireless (WiFi) in the garage, another option is to run the Cat5e/6 cable out there from the main Internet router, and instead of another router/hub/switch out there, just run a wireless access point.
This is how I am hooking up my shop. I wired Cat6 to a box in the middle of the ceiling when I built it, and that Cat6 cable runs all the way back to the house, to the location where all of my cable and network/phone drops terminate (about 125 ft.).

Another option is a wireless range extender, that runs over the power lines.

 

[Chaznsc]

OK. Right now I have the motorola surfer modem connected to the E2500. In the garage I'm using a Linksys USB adapter. Now I also have another motorola modem I was going to connect to a second router in garage. Running a hard line from the master bedroom to the garage will be a *****, it'll have to go thru the attic (bad knees & back) but I suppose could be done as a last resort. If I do this do I wire the cable to a router or directly to the computer? sorry, not to geeky tonight.

Install a repeater and push the signal into the garage.

 

[Jsf721]

Had a similar issue. Had a local "guy" install a gizmo that plugs in to and outlet and cat 5 to router. turns your whole elctrical system into a wifi antenna. Now i can surf the net in the backyard a full power no issues. Garage was never and issue.

Can get you name of Gizmo when I get home tonight.

OK. Right now I have the motorola surfer modem connected to the E2500. In the garage I'm using a Linksys USB adapter. Now I also have another motorola modem I was going to connect to a second router in garage. Running a hard line from the master bedroom to the garage will be a *****, it'll have to go thru the attic (bad knees & back) but I suppose could be done as a last resort. If I do this do I wire the cable to a router or directly to the computer? sorry, not to geeky tonight.

 

[RickP]

^^^^ Steevo has it right. I recently bought an access point for $19. But, in your case the hardwire to the garage is a problem. You might try a powerline network adapter instead. They advertise 200 MBPS speed, but YMMV. A lot easier than running cable!

 

[canuckian]

I picked up a powerline unit a month ago and I couldn't be happier. The one I have gives you a hard wire connection and it also gives you a wifi signal. Great speeds and a helluva lot more reliable than the wifi from the house 75 ft away.

 

[rlitman]

You can't get a second network in the garage by splitting the cable, unless you have another cable modem, and pay for second network service.

Sounds like you have cable modem coming in over Coax (ie "thru" a splitter). What I'm used to working with for cable companies is Motorola "surfer" cable modem and then whatever WiFi router you prefer. The coax is only used to get internet/ISP signal to the cable modem. )

Sounds like neither of you have heard of MoCA. This is not supported by all cable companies or cable modems, and is a pretty new standard, but if your cable modem supports MoCA, you can connect a MoCA compliant router to it through your co-ax cable network without any Cat5.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I would download inSSIDer and run that on your computer out in the garage. It will scan all the wireless networks and show you their signal strength. All too often I've seen people have poor wifi performance because there are several close networks all trying to use the same channel.

If you find another network has a strong signal that yours and is on the same channel (or overlapping), you can try changing to a channel that isn't used and see if that gives you better performance.

 

[ozyborn]

Garage a sub-panel off your house? If so then try a powerline adapter to get signal out there then a router as an access point.
The only repeater I like is the Airport Extreme router with the Airport Express for extending the network. They give the fewest issues. I have seen others work but I do not trust them.

The Cat6 hardline out there is best.

 

[Gary S]

You can use any router as a switch by not hooking up the "internet" port on the back. Just plug your inbound wire to ports 1-4 and our outbound wires in the other non-internet ports.

It is much easier to get a cheap switch and use it as a switch. That way, there is no setup involved, and nothing to confuse your computers.

 

[MystralHawk]

I work in IT and had a similar issue. Cable going into the house was in the basement. Wasn't getting signal in the garage or spotty signal on the top floor.

Instead of having the router in the basement with the modem, I used a powerline adapter to connect the modem to an outlet and moved my wireless router to an upper floor for better signal propagation.

Easiest method to get connectivity would be through the powerline networking adapters. Problems that you may encounter are: they don't work when you plug them in surge protectors, there are certain instances where if they're on separate circuits they can't see one another, speed may not be what you desire (as it is based on the quality of your home wiring).

I haven't had any issue at the house with the powerline adapters. They're cheap and fast.

If you are dead set on wireless, you can use the powerline adapters in conjunction with wireless routers to extend the signal. No need to buy special repeaters. It takes some additional configuration. If you are interested, I can PM you some sites that you can look at.

Let me know if you require any additional help! I'm actually excited that I am able to participate in a thread for once!

 

[LEVE]

My network is as follows:

Phone Company provides a Netgear 7550 4 port/Wireless Router. Connections to this router:

• Incoming Internet cable from the phone line
• Wired: Netgear DS309 9 port Hub
• Wireless: Daugther's iPhone
• Wireless:My Android Cell phone

Several devices are connected to the Netgear Hub:

• Wired: My main Whitebox computer
• Wired: The old-Dell garage Computer; connected via 200' of Cat5 wire ran underground in PVC schedule 80 conduit to the garage.
• Wired: Old Linux expermintal computer
• Wired: Cisco/Linksys E100 Wireless Router

To this Cisco/Linksys router is connected:

• Wireless: Wife's Android tablet
• My iPad
• Wireless: Wife's laptop
• Wireless: My laptop
• Wireless: Guest Laptop account

So far, the network works fine. In case anyone's interested in a couple of fine networking programs... I'll toss out a couple I use:

• The Dude; it's a network mapping program
• TeamViewer; it's a program that lets you
  • Rremotely control/contact computers
  • Print
  • File Transfer
  It's a very useful program.

It ain't much, but it's working fine for me....

 

[Falcon67]

Much complication and hackery here. You only get one address from the cable company. Run a ethernet cable to the garage from one of the 2500 router ports and put one of the other routers on the end of the cable. You should not have to do any configuration other than normal security (WPA pre-shared key). Consumer wireless gets maybe 100~150' tops, depending on the environment. G band will go farther than A band and if you have a chain link fence between you and the garage, get the router up way high to try and shoot over the fence. Chain link is great for killing 2.4 Ghz wireless.

 

[MystralHawk]

Much complication and hackery here. You only get one address from the cable company. Run a ethernet cable to the garage from one of the 2500 router ports and put one of the other routers on the end of the cable. You should not have to do any configuration other than normal security (WPA pre-shared key). Consumer wireless gets maybe 100~150' tops, depending on the environment. G band will go farther than A band and if you have a chain link fence between you and the garage, get the router up way high to try and shoot over the fence. Chain link is great for killing 2.4 Ghz wireless.

This is if he really wants wireless in both locations.

Essentially what you are suggesting is that he use one of the router ports, run a line to the garage, connect another router (but ensure that DHCP is disabled, the connection is plugged into the LAN port and not the WAN/Internet port), set WPA2 security (WPA is easily cracked along with WEP).

There are instances where the wireless signals will battle each other if they use the same SSID and they are within close enough signal range with each other. Sometimes you will get a device that keeps switching between the two signals. That is why for corporate or large scale deployments, wireless access point signals are usually attenuated in order to provide good coverage with minimal overlap to prevent wireless connection issues.

But, by using the powerline networking, he doesn't need to run any ethernet to the garage as he can piggyback on the home's existing wiring. Then at the end, he can throw a switch (for hardwired connections) or another wireless router (for wireless and hardwired) in the method described above.

In case anyone's interested in a couple of fine networking programs... I'll toss out a couple I use:

• The Dude; it's a network mapping program
• TeamViewer; it's a program that lets you
  • Rremotely control/contact computers
  • Print
  • File Transfer
  It's a very useful program.

It ain't much, but it's working fine for me....

I personally like NMAP for discovery and LogMeIn for remote maintenance, but great recommendations!

 

[Falcon67]

There are instances where the wireless signals will battle each other if they use the same SSID and they are within close enough signal range with each other.

Since we're getting technical - No, the bands overlap at 2.4G, SSID has nothing to do with it. I have 150 APs with the same SSID and in close proximity in class rooms that need 40-50-60 clients. Not applicable to a house installation. Also I'd say sitting in the street trying to hack WPA keys for home wireless is pretty ****. Why - to steal time on an over booked cable network? You hack into my router on Windstream and you'll get the same crappy no through put I get wired straight into the modem.

 

[stonesfan68]

I just added a second wi-fi router to a bedroom nearest the garage. I set-up the new router's wi-fi network to have the same name as my original network, and then selected a different broadcast channel. My devices (iPad, laptop, iPhone) go from one to another wi-fi router with no problems as the device looks for the strongest signal.

 

[d3ad1ysp0rk]

Since we're getting technical - No, the bands overlap at 2.4G, SSID has nothing to do with it. I have 150 APs with the same SSID and in close proximity in class rooms that need 40-50-60 clients. Not applicable to a house installation. Also I'd say sitting in the street trying to hack WPA keys for home wireless is pretty ****. Why - to steal time on an over booked cable network? You hack into my router on Windstream and you'll get the same crappy no through put I get wired straight into the modem.

Nope, to sniff network traffic for all the unsecured sites people log into.

 

[Falcon67]

Nope, to sniff network traffic for all the unsecured sites people log into.

And you are assuming short PSKs with dictionary words. A reasonable assumption for a typical home network I suppose.

 

[NUTTSGT]

This is what I love about this board, the wealth of information and it always pops up when I wondering about the subject.

 

[MystralHawk]

Since we're getting technical - No, the bands overlap at 2.4G, SSID has nothing to do with it. I have 150 APs with the same SSID and in close proximity in class rooms that need 40-50-60 clients. Not applicable to a house installation. Also I'd say sitting in the street trying to hack WPA keys for home wireless is pretty ****. Why - to steal time on an over booked cable network? You hack into my router on Windstream and you'll get the same crappy no through put I get wired straight into the modem.

Hey Falcon, I wasn't trying to sound like I am a wireless god or anything, but just was trying to make things simple in terms of band overlap...most people understand SSIDs easier than explaining spectrum.

My logic regarding WPA is that, if it doesn't take that much effort to configure WPA2, why wouldn't you want to take that opportunity? Yes, the likelihood of a war driver is slim, but for almost no additional time, you could implement a much stronger security configuration.

Anyways, I'm not saying dual APs is not possible, but in terms of simplicity, it may be easier for the OP to just do some powerline networking instead of trying to manage dual routers.

Anyways, not trying to insult or be pushy here...just wanted to give some friendly advice and try to keep things easy to understand for people without getting too technical.

 

[Sludge Puppy]

how about setting up a Vlan on the router, and adding a new SSID for the garage
For simplicity sakes I would do the electric module to the garage, then attach the router there, turn of DHCP and be done. Simple and Easy. Also, I have a networking buddy in Oside as well who rides Harley's if you need some local help and friendly bike talk BS

Forgot to say, use the 120N, it is faster. If you really get bored, you can find lots of good info online about hacking the 54G and can add a ton of features to it

 

[FarmerPete]

Here are my solutions in order of cost.

1. Move house router/modem to a location that is higher and closer to the garage. Cost = Free if wiring is in place.
2. Leave router/modem where they are and configure your WRT54GS as a wireless repeater. Place WRT54GS high and near garage. May require custom firmware (DD-WRT) and a little configuration. Plenty of walkthroughs on DD-WRT's site. Cost = Free. Note: Before messing with the WRT54GS and installing custom firmware, I would do a proof of concept to make sure wireless will reach from desired spot to garage. You can do this by running temporary cables through your house to get a similar setup.
3. Install powerline adapter and configure WRT54GS as an access point. Start by configuring WRT54GS to be a plain access point. If you don't know how to do this, hire a local person. Plug network cable from unused port on home router to powerline adapter, plug second powerline adapter into port 1-4 on WRT54GS. Cost = ~$40 for adapter and $50 for an hour of tech time if you can't do the config yourself.
4. Install a powerline adapter that has WiFi on the remote end. NETGEAR Powerline AV 200 Wireless-N Extender Kit (XAVNB2001). Cost = $122

 

[Merlinii]

Your best connection is a Cat5/6 wire. If you are unable to run a "drop" there are lots of folks/companies that can do it for you. Usual cost is about $100. A wire is much more secure, has better quality, reliability and speed than wi-fi.

 

[Albiemanmike]

Your best connection is a Cat5/6 wire. If you are unable to run a "drop" there are lots of folks/companies that can do it for you. Usual cost is about $100. A wire is much more secure, has better quality, reliability and speed than wi-fi.

This like others have mentioned is the most reliable solution of any discussed. I am the Senior IT Support Engineer for a small company in CT. My job is to visit all of my clients daily to assist them with any/all technology related issues they may be having. I could could give you a mind numbing array of solutions to your problem but most of them require that you possess more than a consumers level of networking and hardware knowledge. In the end your absolute best option is to get a hard line into the garage and connect a wireless access device i.e. Router (minus dhcp. Connected to a Lan Port, wireless access point, etc.) to use as your Internet access. Better to even connect your device that you are surfing with directly to the Cat5 cable but that is less common these days with so many different tablets, phones, Kindles and such being used. This will ensure you have a robust and reliable Internet connection in your mancave and lessen the chances for frustration.

We do not sell or use any of the consumer wireless devices anymore if it can be avoided as they really are not up to the normal rigors of what I see daily. We use Ruckus Wireless gear now exclusively and it is far superior to anything you can obtain from the consumer channels. I am sure anyone wanting a Ruckus device could easily find a Ruckus partner like us that could order you an access point. I have a Ruckus network setup in the house and I can connect to it from our detached garage that is easily 75-100+ away from the device in the house and I get very good signal and throughput. The Ruckus gear has patented beam forming technology and multiple antenna technology that allows it to dynamically adjust signal and channel to ensure reliable signal and throughput. This all comes at a price but if wireless Internet is important to you than there is none better IMHO. We have tried others and the Ruckus wins hands down.