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Concern With Roof
- Thread starter Mike951
- Start date
tuner4life
Well-known member
Thats how mine is too. Wouldn't worry about it too much as long as it doesn't leak when it's raining or snowing.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Have you been up on a ladder to look at it more closely? It doesn't look like there's a drip edge installed, and some of the courses don't even get to the edge of the roof much less overhang it. If it doesn't leak now I think it could be the source of a leak eventually.
so long as there is flashing that goes under shingles and over the top of the siding - oops, I should wake up before I post - Stuart in MN has it right. There needs to be a drip edge with goes under your shingles and hangs over top of the fascia board. I cannot tell from your pic if that is present or not. As mentioned, if it isn't there now, then chances are you will experience problems in the future. It's not TOO difficult to install if you don't mind heights, and can be purchased at most lumber supply stores.
Good luck.,
Good luck.,
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dirttracker18
Well-known member
Boo to building with no overhang. A drip edge is not a big instal after the fact. it can be done! The facia appears to extend over hte siding so that is a plus.
Obviously one should not build like that but since it's there work with it. It can be made to not leak.
Obviously one should not build like that but since it's there work with it. It can be made to not leak.
There is no drip edge installed.
My worry is also that if I install drip edge, there is not enough overhang present (looks like 1/4" max) to reach AT LEAST edge of drip edge, let alone overhang that by a bit, which I think is the right way to do it....?
My worry is also that if I install drip edge, there is not enough overhang present (looks like 1/4" max) to reach AT LEAST edge of drip edge, let alone overhang that by a bit, which I think is the right way to do it....?
Falcon67
Well-known member
Buildings with no eves are common, but for sure you need to inspect and if not there install a drip edge to prevent rain from coming in under the shingles and roof paper. Drip edge on the rake should be over the roof paper and under the shingles.
blkhonda1991
Well-known member
i never got why they did 0 overhang on houses, it looks like **** and doesnt protect the house much, i hate that my gable walls have 0 overhang, and to top it off i have a vinyl siding retrofit over wood shake which makes the siding sit proud of what was the original rake trim, its a stupid detail.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
There is no drip edge installed.
My worry is also that if I install drip edge, there is not enough overhang present (looks like 1/4" max) to reach AT LEAST edge of drip edge, let alone overhang that by a bit, which I think is the right way to do it....?
That is the right way to do it - there should be a drip edge, and then the shingles should overhang it by a little. However, even if they don't I think it's still a good idea to install the drip edge anyway.
You can get drip edge formed so the top part that slips under the shingles is wider, that may be a good idea in this case.
What if my shingles don't overhand the drip edge when I install it? Should I tear up the last shingle row along the rakes and replace?
Also, I noticed a few different styles of drip edge...a 'T' shaped style and a upside down 'L' shaped style with a beveled lip...which is best? I think the L style would look best asthetically in terms of lapping over the existing aluminum clad.
Thanks
Mike
Also, I noticed a few different styles of drip edge...a 'T' shaped style and a upside down 'L' shaped style with a beveled lip...which is best? I think the L style would look best asthetically in terms of lapping over the existing aluminum clad.
Thanks
Mike
Falcon67
Well-known member
I like the L shape with a little gutter lip, when I can find it. Should be able to find both a 1.5" nailing edge and a 2.5".
Zeke
Well-known member
Missing shingles and no drip edge will get you rot. But, I'm more concerned about that window. If the top looks anything like the side in the pic, that's something to look at.
Missing shingles and no drip edge will get you rot. But, I'm more concerned about that window. If the top looks anything like the side in the pic, that's something to look at.
Please elaborate?
Greatbear
Well-known member
Please elaborate?
He probably means that installations using J-channel such as yours can be prone to introducing water behind the siding if not installed just right. A simple mitered cut with no overlapping or caulking where the corners meet will let water get into the joint and from there it can go many places. Think of it this way, the upper channel acts as a gutter to water flowing down the siding, carrying it to the ends. It's preferable to make an overlapping joint (takes some creative cutting) and/or use sealer to waterproof the joint. Likewise, the J-channel should be caulked to the window casing as well, preventing water from wicking between the casing and the channel. This might have been done already and not visible in the picture. I run a bead along the casings and but the channel against that, sealing the two pieces together yet without a visible bead.
So I'm looking to re-visit this issue.
I went to look at some drip edge, and couldn't find one that looks liek it will work great. My fascia board is double lapped, with a 6" piece behind a 1-3/4" piece, both wrapped in coil stock. If I install a drip edge, I am afraid that it will look bad with the 1-3/4 section of the fascia board, as if there was too much **** sandwiched together in that area.
Should I just redo and the shingles along the rakes? Is there anything complicated about this? (They are GAF Timberlines) Do they have to be cut in a certain place? Does having the correct overhang eliminate the need for a drip edge?
All new siding, don't want to make it look like ****....
I went to look at some drip edge, and couldn't find one that looks liek it will work great. My fascia board is double lapped, with a 6" piece behind a 1-3/4" piece, both wrapped in coil stock. If I install a drip edge, I am afraid that it will look bad with the 1-3/4 section of the fascia board, as if there was too much **** sandwiched together in that area.
Should I just redo and the shingles along the rakes? Is there anything complicated about this? (They are GAF Timberlines) Do they have to be cut in a certain place? Does having the correct overhang eliminate the need for a drip edge?
All new siding, don't want to make it look like ****....
pattenp
Well-known member
I think the bottom line is that the singles should have some overlap on the rake edge, 5/8 to 3/4 inch but no more than 1 inch. To pull up all the singles on the edge is going to be a pain. You're going to have singles ranging from full singles down to maybe 1/4 singles to be removed. So it's going to be a job that will take some time. Also there should be a shingle run long ways along the rake edge just as a starter shingle is laid at the eve.
trbomax
Well-known member
So what is the preferred method of siding around a window? I don't remember any caulk being used when this was done....
The j on the sides of the window only runs up as high as what will be the bottom of the j on the top of the window and butts into the sill. The j on top of the window is put on last and overhangs the j on the sides, so it acts as an eve trough of sorts.All the joints are caulked with a color matched silicone product.
tcianci
Well-known member
The style of rakes on houses is indeed a regional thing. Here in MA, it's very common for the rake trim on a roof to be applied with no overhangs. The trim is spaced off the sidewall sheathing with a piece of 1x3 to allow the siding to run up under the rake trim. When the roof is shingled, typically, there is what we call a "kicker course" of shingle, laid end to end up the rake. This shingle overhangs the rake trim by about 1/4 inch. When the courses of shingle are laid on top of the kicker course, the roofer can reach under the course and run his knife along the kicker course in order to trim the shingles to a nice even edge. The kicker course also serves as a backer for the shingles that overhang the edge, making them less susceptable to sagging or breakage. You need to limit the overhang to about 1/4 to 3/8 otherwise you're setting yourself up for a problem, as a larger overhang will lead to failure.
Sometimes if a customer requests it, we will apply a drip edge to the rakes. It's a matter of preference, the above-mentioned approach is tried and true. If you're in a situation where you would be roofing over an existing roof, applying a drip edge serves to cover the existing kicker course and roof so that you don't get the appearance of 5/8 of an inch of roofing material showing at the edge of the rake trim.
In the case of the vinyl siding... the right way, oh wait, there is no right way to install vinyl siding! Typically in an effort to keep the water on the outside of a vinyl job, the side J channels are capped by the top J but the top J is cut a and the "bottom" of the J is bent down on both ends so that it interlocks (more or less) into the side J channels. This causes water in the top channel to drain down along the side J channels. No caulking is used. If you have read any of my previous posts, you know how I feel about caulking and how it can really screw up your project. Besides, caulking vinyl is an excercise in futility as the product movement due to temperature swings far exceeds the elastic capabilities of any caulk.
Sometimes if a customer requests it, we will apply a drip edge to the rakes. It's a matter of preference, the above-mentioned approach is tried and true. If you're in a situation where you would be roofing over an existing roof, applying a drip edge serves to cover the existing kicker course and roof so that you don't get the appearance of 5/8 of an inch of roofing material showing at the edge of the rake trim.
In the case of the vinyl siding... the right way, oh wait, there is no right way to install vinyl siding! Typically in an effort to keep the water on the outside of a vinyl job, the side J channels are capped by the top J but the top J is cut a and the "bottom" of the J is bent down on both ends so that it interlocks (more or less) into the side J channels. This causes water in the top channel to drain down along the side J channels. No caulking is used. If you have read any of my previous posts, you know how I feel about caulking and how it can really screw up your project. Besides, caulking vinyl is an excercise in futility as the product movement due to temperature swings far exceeds the elastic capabilities of any caulk.
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trbomax
Well-known member
Your right,there is no good way to do vinyl. If I had to do vinyl,I'd use aluminum j. Super stretch will move with vinyl though.