concrete and 2015 international building code

[Iceman22]

Before I go any further I want to thank all of you for your knowledge and willingness to share it. The vibe here is completely different than some of the car forums I am a member of where you will be quickly crucified for asking what is perceived as a dumb questions/question that have been answered. The being said you all have already been a huge help in my in my previous 2 threads which has now lead me to my current position...

Initially I was I was moving forward with the plan of having a pole barn attached to my current stick built house. However, after taking into consideration all of your thoughtful responses, I have begun the process in getting quotes for a stick built garage instead. I had hoped the pole barn construction would allow me to keep building costs lower but it just appears not to be worth the "side effects"

That being said the multiple contractors I have spoke to so far all state they do not do concrete and therefore would only be interested in the work once the concrete is poured. Not only is that okay with me but I think I prefer to have someone pour the concrete where that's all they do...

Therefore I contacted multiple concrete guys who all said the same: we'll do whatever you ask for but keep in mind you'll want to be sure whatever you have us do is compliant with the city. Initially I was put off by this, thinking "shouldn't you know what they want?" However, after speaking to multiple concrete contractors in the area I'm beginning to think this is the normal response/thought process.

With that being said I went ahead and contacted the gentleman who overseas the cities building code and inspections. While not rude, he was of little to no help. I asked him multiple questions such as if there was any city regulation regarding the maximum size a slab could be poured and if I could get away with a no-form haunch. His response to every question was the same; "The city follows the 2015 international building code guidelines for all construction. Your best bet is to submit what you plan to do. We will then compare it to the 2015 I.B.C and either grant a permit or return it to you with what needs to be adjusted."

So, my question to you guys is; are any of you aware of what the 2015 I.B.C. says with regards to a concrete pour on an attached but unheated/un-insulated 28'x40' garage? The site of the proposed garage is more or less level....

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

I am a contractor a masonry contractor not concrete. I know several people that are concrete contractors. Here's the thing we are not engineers some of the codes are very complicated and difficult to understand. Basically what your guy is saying is that he will build whatever you want him to build and will price it out with those agreements. Usually we bid and build using plans or blueprints that are designed and stamped by an engineer. Ultimately that puts any of the design flaws or code issues directly on the engineer or architect who stamp the plans. That protects us from any structural issues that may arise with improper construction


To answer your question sorry I do not know exactly what the codes are pertaining to your project

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tjdux]

Ask they guy if you can read his copy or rent it. That's how it works in my town (free) but you sit with them and go through the code book to answer questions. Chances are that book is high dollar.

Sounds like your guy in the city office was pretty lazy. 100 bucks says he's got the code books right in his office and could have looked then up faster than you can ask the questions...

Plus there are probably some "standard" code such as how much percentage of your lot can be built on, which may answer slab size.

When i go talk to those guys i bring a rough sketch and they always pull up their "google earth" Ariel photo computer program and she generally pulls the code book out for specific questions.

Sorry i can't help more than that.

Signiture; Check out my garage progress http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352703

 

[ddawg16]

Ice...ALL of us were in your shoes at one time....so don't worry about getting attitude from anyone. About the only time we loose our patience is when someone asks a question that could have easily been answered by doing a search or, we don't respond back quick enough and they get their knickers in a twist.....yes...there have been 'new' members who thought they should have had a response in two hours or less.

What your concrete contractors are telling you is correct. Which means they are somewhat reputable.

IBC will dictate construction details. Your local building and safety will determine the other parts.

Your next step is to make a visit to your local building and safety office and tell them what you 'want' to do. They will then tell you what you 'can' do. You're in NY, so things like frost line, etc are going to come up. Additionally, if you want utilities out there (besides electrical, they will tell you what is required of that.

You are going to need permits. To get those permits you need first a plot plan. This is basically a one line drawing showing the dimensions of your property and where all the existing structures are and where you want to put your new garage. You will need this no mater what kind of structure...poll or stick.

Once you have that approved, then you go to the detailed plans. In my area, it could be a drawing on a napkin if it uses standard construction practices and no engineering is required. However, given the size of your garage, I think you are going to need some engineering on your trusses....it's wide and you have to deal with snow loads. But just so you know, most lumber yards where you would get your trusses will do that engineering for you.

So....first step....building and safety. Don't be afraid of them. If they know you want to do it right, they'll walk you through all the steps you need to take.

And....I think you are making the right decision with stick built. Your property value will be higher.

Side note....I think I recall your threads asking about foundations.....you might want to look at my garage build as well as a few others to get some insight as to what your getting into.

 

[Dr Stan]

Well if you're ready & willing to wade through the content go here: https://codes.iccsafe.org/public/document/toc/542/

Otherwise find a contractor or PE who is willing to bring you up to speed.

 

[dw1]

I know when I went to take out my building permit initially, I did not have all my information, but, the permit writer did print out paperwork from IBC and gave me the info I needed. Can you check with your city/town ect where you get the building permit, maybe they will tell you exactly what you need. Good luck.
I think I had 3 trips for the building permit for my barn
I had 6 trips for a damn demolition permit for a falling down horse barn
and as I educated myself, I had 2 trips to tear down my 117 Y.O farmhouse, last fall. Ask around and see who is good to deal with inside the permit/bldg. office.

 

[Iceman22]

Thanks for all the detailed responses so far. I hope I didn't come off as an A-Hole with my attitude towards the concrete contractors. Now that its been explained in detail with regards to how you guys see it from the other side of things it makes much more sense why they said what they said.

As for my local code inspector; I'm wondering if a trip to the office in person with even a rudimentary sketch will yield better results. My originally thought was he'd much rather answer a few questions over the phone than deal with my dumb-**** in person but maybe he felt I wasn't serious or something....

 

[rburke65]

No concrete guy here, but you will want a vapor barrier, and a true 4" slab of 4,000psi mix....in my opinion. They will have you jump through some hoops but it's all part of the process. It's easy to get discouraged. Good luck.

 

[Thumper68]

I think you are on the right track going in and seeing him in person, he probably gets 10 calls or more a week from dreamers.

I would make a site plan, you can use google earth for that to make it easier, a sketch of what you want to build and bring them with you.

 

[DougWil]

The IBC actually says very little, it mostly just references other codes such as ACI- American Concrete Institute, ASCE- American Society of Civil Engineers, AWC- American Wood Council etc,,, and is borderline worthless without having the material they reference.

Start with the basics, are plans stamped by licensed engineer required by the building dept?
If not do you think you are capable of making such plans?
If not start looking for someone qualified who can.
If a stamp isn't required there are lots of knowledgeable drafters that can do it.

 

[matt_i]

Imo trying to rely on 2 separate contractors to "design their part" is not a good idea. Its better to have a unified plan of framing and foundation design, and then each contractor can (quote, build) their part. Or, you could hire a general contractor who would hire the subs for you and manage the process start to finish for an additional fee.

Main points I got when designing my foundation...locally, has to be 42" below finished grade. Anchor bolts have to be set within a certain distance of end of plates, it could be within 7" but it could also be a multiple of the bolt diameter. 1/2" minimum bolt dia, I used 5/8". Minimum of 7" embedment of the anchors into the concrete although nobody ever checked but me. Have to have min 2 bolts per plate, which got challenging in the short sections next to man-doors. I think its a max of 5 feet between anchor bolts. Must be built on undisturbed soil, fill any over-excavation with concrete.

Those were the basic restrictions as I recall, some of my numbers are probably wrong due to forgetfulness and not using them every day but you get the idea. Any reinforcement, any spec with the concrete strength, were totally up to the designer or builder. 6mil min vapor barrier was required under the slab, I used 10mil.

 

[ms fowler]

Ice--
You are on the right track. Its far better to involve the Builder Inspector at the start than to have it appear you were trying to get by without the required permits. They do not take kindly when they think they were being ignored.
Go to the Building Inspections office probably mid morning--avoid right when they open and just before they close for the day---that is when they get the majority of phone calls, either to schedule inspections or to cancel inspections. Realize that is their busy time and make your visit when it is more convenient to them--you may even want to ask what time is best for them. You will likely deal with office people, at first. Ask for an application for a building permit, and then ask if the person who gets you that can walk you thru the process.
Most likely you will need 1) a site plan--as previously discussed. Doesn't need to be a formal plan drawn by an architect--just make it neat, and to scale, showing property lines, existing structures and your proposed garage. Show the distance from each structure to the nearest property lines.
2) a plan of the proposed garage--Some places will require "stamped plans" but not most. So try it, yourself. There are inexpensive CAD programs, or you can hand draw it. You will need a basic plan ( overhead view of the garage) showing typical wall construction, locations of doors and window, and how they will be framed,the roof construction, ( "Trusses engineered by others") foundation and footing lines with a note that footings will be excavated to the required frost depth. ( They will probably have a stamp and add this information anyway). You will also probably need an elevation drawing--a profile of the garage, showing its height--there are regulations concerning the max height. You probably will need an electrical plan showing the service panel, outlets, lights and switches. Remember, in a garage, the outlets may not want to be as close to the floor as in a house---especially when they are under a workbench.Maybe even a plumbing plan.
Yes, it seems like a lot of work, but you want this garage to be as close to perfect as you can make it, so all this planning is your chance to think about all the details that will make it just right. Start out with some rough sketches--don't worry about being too neat--at first--just get everything on paper. the refine it. look for problems,--things that interfere with other things--does the garage door open into a place on the ceiling where it might hit something? You don't need to show cabinets and other movable things--just the structure of the building. And for goodness' sake do not show anything that could cause problems--like labeling an area " Area to spray paint automobiles" or " Caustic chemical storage".
Keep it as simple as possible.
When you have assembled everything you THINK you need, take the completed application, your drawings and the appropriate fee to the Building Inspections office. They will get back to you and either approve your plans, or tell you what you still need.

Good luck. If you have never done this before, it can seem like a daunting process, but tackle it in little steps, get help here, and you can do this.

 

[GMCGarage]

Before I go any further I want to thank all of you for your knowledge and willingness to share it. The vibe here is completely different than some of the car forums I am a member of where you will be quickly crucified for asking what is perceived as a dumb questions/question that have been answered. The being said you all have already been a huge help in my in my previous 2 threads which has now lead me to my current position...

Initially I was I was moving forward with the plan of having a pole barn attached to my current stick built house. However, after taking into consideration all of your thoughtful responses, I have begun the process in getting quotes for a stick built garage instead. I had hoped the pole barn construction would allow me to keep building costs lower but it just appears not to be worth the "side effects"

That being said the multiple contractors I have spoke to so far all state they do not do concrete and therefore would only be interested in the work once the concrete is poured. Not only is that okay with me but I think I prefer to have someone pour the concrete where that's all they do...

Therefore I contacted multiple concrete guys who all said the same: we'll do whatever you ask for but keep in mind you'll want to be sure whatever you have us do is compliant with the city. Initially I was put off by this, thinking "shouldn't you know what they want?" However, after speaking to multiple concrete contractors in the area I'm beginning to think this is the normal response/thought process.

With that being said I went ahead and contacted the gentleman who overseas the cities building code and inspections. While not rude, he was of little to no help. I asked him multiple questions such as if there was any city regulation regarding the maximum size a slab could be poured and if I could get away with a no-form haunch. His response to every question was the same; "The city follows the 2015 international building code guidelines for all construction. Your best bet is to submit what you plan to do. We will then compare it to the 2015 I.B.C and either grant a permit or return it to you with what needs to be adjusted."

So, my question to you guys is; are any of you aware of what the 2015 I.B.C. says with regards to a concrete pour on an attached but unheated/un-insulated 28'x40' garage? The site of the proposed garage is more or less level....

Wouldnt this fall under the 2015 Residential code?

 

[bczygan]

First step is always zoning.

Do you know how to find out those requirements?

Bill

 

[Trey T]

OP: You should've called him out if he's not being helpful- they're suppose to!!!

However, if you spoke to the head poncho, he's not gonna be helpful on discussing the detail. You need to talk to the specific permit writer/reviewer. Just call them back and ask for a peon. If you want to pull a permit, ask for a similar permit (content-wise) that was granted and copy it. The worst thing is that you have to drive to the City and make copies of the permit detail.

I'm curious, why are there so many NEC huggers on here and none on ACI, IRC, or IBC codes?

 

[GMCGarage]

What do you mean?

 

[ddawg16]

OP: You should've called him out if he's not being helpful- they're suppose to!!!

However, if you spoke to the head poncho, he's not gonna be helpful on discussing the detail. You need to talk to the specific permit writer/reviewer. Just call them back and ask for a peon. If you want to pull a permit, ask for a similar permit (content-wise) that was granted and copy it. The worst thing is that you have to drive to the City and make copies of the permit detail.

I'm curious, why are there so many NEC huggers on here and none on ACI, IRC, or IBC codes?

What do you mean?

I know what he is talking about.

If you talk about electrical stuff, the NEC guys will have plenty of NEC codes for you..."You can do this, but you can't do that...but you have do to this that way", etc...."Are you in the 2008 cycle of 2015?" etc....

The reality is, the electrical codes are changing at a much faster rate than building codes. To be proficient you have to stay on top of it. I guess some guys have the opinion they are the experts when they can spit out an NEC section for you.

For the most part, building codes are pretty consistent from east to west coast...except in California where we have earthquakes to deal with.....and the north where frost heave is an issue.

Asking questions is a good thing. Even those of us with 'experience' learn something each time.

 

[Keel]

City hall isn't going to be of any help till you show up with real plans.. then they will tell you where you need things changed..
When you call, it's not like your calling city hall code google, can we help you..
No one is going on record on a spec without a drawing/plans. and phone calls can be recorded.. So.. draw up plans and walk in and they'll nic pick it apart

 

[ard]

I'm an engineer, but no licensed. I can draw.

I've done 6 or 7 building projects including foundations/footings.

All you need to do is have a drawing/plan that if executed as drawn will result in a compliant structure. What I mean by this is that the drawing must have all the little detals that one needs- so you build these into the drawing step by step.

Plot Plan. When we bought the property we got a plan, initial builder added the home, driveway. I've added trees, barn, shop, pool, deck. I've taken the last project, on 24x36 paper, with the county stamp- and just Xerox that - cross out the old stamp- and modify it for the next permit. This 'telegraps' to the county plan checker 'it was good enough last time'. Never been asked for a survey. Twice there were critical setbacks, for which I added a note ("** ft setback, verify on site")

Foundation plans are easy- draw the outline. Add notes. "Foundation anchor bolts, Simpson xxxx eevry yyyy inches"... Then do footings. Footings (here in California) are a simple affair: A dashed line inside the edge of the slab. Then a detail: detal is a cross section of a typical view. Add a note with two pieces of rebar in the footing.

My point is that there is nothing magical about a drawing/plan.

There are a few key design issues you - and only you- can answer before designing. What is your frost depth there? Given that I live in the land of a 0.0" frost depth, I cannot speak to options here- my knowledge comes from growing up in PA, where it was 'dig 36 inches, pour, bock wall, etc". There may be options for shallow frost protected foundations where you are.

If you were looking to add receptacles to a room, the answer is "it needs to comply with xxxx Code"...but you would NOT get a copy of the code to start wiring the room. I would not go to the code to figure out your foundation....

You should go online and start looking at foundation design drawing/plans. Understand your frost depth. Stem wall for your building? (Yes, IMO). Stuff like that.

Oh, what oil?

 

[rnscustom]

Most building inspectors won't answer questions , they figure you should know what your doing and if not you should have hired someone who does . Plans with stamp is required . You or someone you know can draw them up , then take to the engineer . Some lumber yards have an engineer and will do that for you if they get the job . Mostly don't forget cost , towns get their money on the cost of the project , here you pay for a permit based on the cost of the project

 

[73RR]

That being said the multiple contractors I have spoke to so far all state they do not do concrete and therefore would only be interested in the work once the concrete is poured. ....[/B]

If you do not have the time or desire to draw plans and interact with the local permitting agency then find a General Contractor. They will charge for their services but a 'real' GC will do all of the permit work as well as provide the drawings that meet your needs as well as the permit needs.
The GC will, depending on his company size, hire the subs for all of the work or have staff to do the work in-house. All you have to do is sign checks.

 

[ddawg16]

City hall isn't going to be of any help till you show up with real plans.. then they will tell you where you need things changed..
When you call, it's not like your calling city hall code google, can we help you..
No one is going on record on a spec without a drawing/plans. and phone calls can be recorded.. So.. draw up plans and walk in and they'll nic pick it apart

Most building inspectors won't answer questions , they figure you should know what your doing and if not you should have hired someone who does . Plans with stamp is required . You or someone you know can draw them up , then take to the engineer . Some lumber yards have an engineer and will do that for you if they get the job . Mostly don't forget cost , towns get their money on the cost of the project , here you pay for a permit based on the cost of the project

Not sure where you guys live....but, you're wrong.

I'm in California and my building and safety was extremely helpful. I must have made 10 trips talking to the planning guy before I actually submitted my plot plan.

When it comes to the inspectors? Great guys. On more than one occasion they have come out to my house to look at something and help me figure out the best way to do it. They just had me schedule an inspection (that we both know would fail)....the come out....we have a pow wow....I do it the way we worked out...they come back out eventually and sign off once they see it.

It's been my experience, those who dislike or have issues with building and safety and the inspectors are also the ones who take shortcuts and/or don't pull permits.

 

[73RR]

Yup, agree...^^^^^^
In the many decades that I had my GC business I found inspectors to be the best help if you simply asked them. They like being in charge and showing off all of their required class training and years on the job.
If you piss on their boots they will treat you accordingly but, ask them for their expert opinion and they most often are happy to oblige.
You will not finish the job without their approval........

 

[Iceman22]

Thanks for the continued responses guys! And my apologies for going radio silent for a few days after I asked for help. My work days are 12hr shifts followed by sleeping and then right back at it. Caught a day off today so I can try to get caught up on reading and responding.


I guess my problem is a chicken or the egg type of scenario....I'm trying to get a ballpark idea of how much this endeavor will cost me without spending $1200+ on an engineered drawing I wont ever use if the price is out my league.

I don't mind paying for a drawing to be made so that the permit and building process will go smoothly. However, I really only want to spend that money if I can afford to pay to have the work done. But I can't tell how much the work will be without being able to give the concrete guys a solid direction of what needs to be done....

I guess I was just hoping to have some one at the city say something to the effect of: "Below ** amount of square footage you can pour a haunched slab. Above ** amount of square footage you'll need a frost wall."

The cost of labor and materials for stick building the garage itself seems to be easy to ballpark as two contractors have already given me out the door pricing for them to assemble on an already poured foundation. However the concrete remains the unknown... If it was only going to be a $1000.00 delta either direction i'd just plow on. But from my limited knowledge of concrete; I could end up with a 8K tab or have it raise past $20,000 before I know it.

 

[Jlbc212]

I'm not an architect or engineer, but I am a licensed construction supervisor in Massachusetts and I've designed many houses and countless additions and garages. In many states, like Massachusetts and probably NY, you need detailed plans drawn to scale in order to obtain building permits. In my area most of the city/town building inspection depts are understaffed and those serving are underpaid. While most try to be helpful their job requirement is not to design anyone's proposed project. A successful project begins with a well thought out, written design with as much detail as possible. In my experience most people don't know the value of the plan. When I drew a plan, I actually built the project on paper. A good plan is worth 10% of the total cost of the project. Once the plan is made, stick to it!

 

[brownbagg]

if its a pole barn, the slab is not structural so you can pretty much do what ever you want

 

[ms fowler]

Thanks for the continued responses guys! And my apologies for going radio silent for a few days after I asked for help. My work days are 12hr shifts followed by sleeping and then right back at it. Caught a day off today so I can try to get caught up on reading and responding.


I guess my problem is a chicken or the egg type of scenario....I'm trying to get a ballpark idea of how much this endeavor will cost me without spending $1200+ on an engineered drawing I wont ever use if the price is out my league.

I don't mind paying for a drawing to be made so that the permit and building process will go smoothly. However, I really only want to spend that money if I can afford to pay to have the work done. But I can't tell how much the work will be without being able to give the concrete guys a solid direction of what needs to be done....

I guess I was just hoping to have some one at the city say something to the effect of: "Below ** amount of square footage you can pour a haunched slab. Above ** amount of square footage you'll need a frost wall."

The cost of labor and materials for stick building the garage itself seems to be easy to ballpark as two contractors have already given me out the door pricing for them to assemble on an already poured foundation. However the concrete remains the unknown... If it was only going to be a $1000.00 delta either direction i'd just plow on. But from my limited knowledge of concrete; I could end up with a 8K tab or have it raise past $20,000 before I know it.

If I read your reply correctly, your main concern is the cost of the concrete work. Right? The main variable in foundation design ( other than earthquake-related stuff) is frost depth. A simple phone call to the Building Inspections Office should find someone who can give you that information. The frost depth varies--some places in up state it may be 48" or more. The chart in the International Code is a good general guide, but the scale of the map is such that the exact depth is sometimes difficult to know. best bet is to ask your local building official.
After you know the required frost depth, any local concrete contractor should be able to give you a ball-park estimate based on your overall dimensions. Certainly should be close enough to know within the range you need to know before proceeding further.
As for plans---IMO, its best if you do them yourself---the drawing process requires you to think thru the details rather than just look at what someone else drew up--especially on a relatively simply structure like a garage. Yes, it will take some time to learn how to draw even using a simple CAD program, but that time is simply part of the investment in your garage. Even if you decide to have someone else draw up the actual plans, you need to have thought thru the process enough to tell that person what you want.
Oh, and one extra piece of advice--be open and honest with your Inspector. If you screw up--admit it, and fix it. Don't try to hide anything--avoid even the appearance that someone might think you are trying to hide something. And follow any required "Sequence of Operations" notes--everyone is getting more concerned about environmental issues, so if you are required to have a "Stabilized Construction Entrance" ( SCE), and sediment and erosion features ( silt fence etc) then do those things first, as required. Don't risk being shut down ( and fined) because you or your Contractor violated the required sequencing.

 

[ard]

Isnt the frost depth published" if we knew more than "central NY" perhaps someone could say "Oh, Ithaca? it is 36 inches"

But just do that ONE thing- call and get the frost depth.

You are building a 28x40 rectangle, yes? Gte the frost depth, we can figure out what it should take. You will have to dig down x inches, pour a footing XxY...this will be a total of 28+28+40+40 long. Then you will need to pour a stem wall. This will be the same lenght. Rebar in both. WIll you have access to the the site with a cement truck? Just drive in and chute it? Then the slab. Thickness and rebar? I bet we can give you a pretty good idea of how many steps,, how much labor, how much concrete and steel...and profit if a contractor does it.

Let us know the frost depth.

(and it isnt 'bigger than AB you need Y frost depth"...it is a number that applies to your geographic location, period)

I am very computer savvy, yet my recommendation for people is pencil and paper (vellum? oldschool). I dont do 2 plans a week, so having a computer program seems a waste. I just did a kitchen addition/remodel plan- (foundation both existing and revised; floor framing; walls, 2nd floor/ceiling and exteriors)...and also drawings for a custom file cabinet/bookcases. Pencil. Just seems easier, for me.

 

[ms fowler]

Isnt the frost depth published" if we knew more than "central NY" perhaps someone could say "Oh, Ithaca? it is 36 inches"

But just do that ONE thing- call and get the frost depth.

You are building a 28x40 rectangle, yes? Gte the frost depth, we can figure out what it should take. You will have to dig down x inches, pour a footing XxY...this will be a total of 28+28+40+40 long. Then you will need to pour a stem wall. This will be the same lenght. Rebar in both. WIll you have access to the the site with a cement truck? Just drive in and chute it? Then the slab. Thickness and rebar? I bet we can give you a pretty good idea of how many steps,, how much labor, how much concrete and steel...and profit if a contractor does it.

Let us know the frost depth.

(and it isnt 'bigger than AB you need Y frost depth"...it is a number that applies to your geographic location, period)

I am very computer savvy, yet my recommendation for people is pencil and paper (vellum? oldschool). I dont do 2 plans a week, so having a computer program seems a waste. I just did a kitchen addition/remodel plan- (foundation both existing and revised; floor framing; walls, 2nd floor/ceiling and exteriors)...and also drawings for a custom file cabinet/bookcases. Pencil. Just seems easier, for me.

Vellum?
I carried a roll of bumwad around in my truck....just in case I needed to do a tracing of a plan. Well, now I use the digital camera, but I still have the bumwad.

 

[ard]

Not calf intestine...

Its semi transparent. Like bumwad, or tracing paper- but much more durable. You can basically use it for the whole drawing, tolerates erasures, etc. Then create a blueprint from it- or just a black/white photocopy.

I like that you can use it like 'layers' in drafting programs. You can lay sheets on top, and see through to foundation, floor plan, etc. Or if you are creating an addition, overlay the old original structure, pick off the key points you need to connect to, then create the new drawing but have it 'keyed' to the old.

 

[TractorJeff]

For what its worth, back when I lived south of Buffalo, Frost depth was 48". Heard about 20 years ago a fellow was putting an addition on a Dairy Barn, he went 48" poured footer. Inspector showed up, put a tape down and said, "This fails as it needs to be 60 inches!"
Maybe it was a local thing or type of structure? Maybe it was a pi%%ed Inspector?
Bottom line is like everyone says, go in and talk to them as minimum Frost Depth should be easily obtainable information.

 

[Iceman22]

I'm located in Binghamton, NY. Frost like is 42 inches


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

For what its worth, back when I lived south of Buffalo, Frost depth was 48". Heard about 20 years ago a fellow was putting an addition on a Dairy Barn, he went 48" poured footer. Inspector showed up, put a tape down and said, "This fails as it needs to be 60 inches!"
Maybe it was a local thing or type of structure? Maybe it was a pi%%ed Inspector?
Bottom line is like everyone says, go in and talk to them as minimum Frost Depth should be easily obtainable information.

The frost depth might only be 48 inches but the foundation probably has to be lower than that to prevent heaving...

I agree that the footing depth should be a standard depth for the entire area


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[forAK]

If there isn't a second floor being built, why not go simpler with a mono pour?

 

[ms fowler]

Not calf intestine...

Its semi transparent. Like bumwad, or tracing paper- but much more durable. You can basically use it for the whole drawing, tolerates erasures, etc. Then create a blueprint from it- or just a black/white photocopy.

I like that you can use it like 'layers' in drafting programs. You can lay sheets on top, and see through to foundation, floor plan, etc. Or if you are creating an addition, overlay the old original structure, pick off the key points you need to connect to, then create the new drawing but have it 'keyed' to the old.

Sorry, i should have been more explicit. I KNOW vellum--I also know I wasn't allowed to use it. We had ONE draftsman who did all the "nice" work. His hand letting was a good as any Leroy stencil lettering done by anyone else.

Back in the 1980s the ACOE required all small dams to be inspected. Our office got an old one for Baltimore. We had to borrow the original drawing from the archives. The front elevation looked like a photograph with individual stones drawn and shaded. That ALMOST ended up not being returned; it was a piece of art.

 

[joes169]

If there isn't a second floor being built, why not go simpler with a mono pour?

I can't believe it took 33 responses before a floating slab was suggested.

The only reason I would guess it isn't offered is because most of the folks who commented here have limited knowledge of floating slabs, and thus simply don't trust them.........