Concrete Apron

[Maine]

I am ready to install my concrete apron on the front of my garage build, I saw cut the existing pavement as straight as I could, and have 4" of depth at the pavement side and 8" of depth at the garage side.

I have 1/2" rebar going into the stem frost walls, and will add more (ran out).

I also plan to pour a 4" thick slab to the right of the garage doors under the carport to keep the pavement from being damaged when going in and out.

My question is, should I put some type of board on the pavement side of the pour and if so how thick should this be? I don't want much of a gap here as water will get into it and possible crack the pavement during the maine winters. My other concern is how would I get this board out after the pour.

Thanks for any input.

 

[Chaznsc]

You could put an expansion joint but against blacktop I wouldn't. I'd also have the steel on 12" centers minimum and pour 5" minimum.

 

[IHI]

Wanna do yourself alot of long term good...dig that sand out and put in some 1" clean rock...at least an 8" thick base of rock...put in 4" and use a plate compactor. Put the next 4" in and use a plate compactor and do a 5-6" pour of concrete on the approach with rebar going parallel to the garage every 2' and tied into the rebar you should drill and epoxy into the existing slab.

the thick rock base of CLEAN rock ensures propoer drainage of water...i'm sure when you tore out that bit, if it has some age on it, you seen the capillary water trails from water washing it out over time..rock wont wash out and allows the water to disperse so it does'nt pool up and freeze and cause the all too common frost heave typical approaches are notorious for.

I do all my approache/aprons this way, i did it on my shed build as well. I used a 12" base of 1" clean rock tamped in 4" lifts and put expansion joint only on the shed floor (which is a slab tied into footings-bigger than most shed 16'x36') I've monitored it specifically to see if the way i've done things over the years has been smart or not. 2 IA winters and that approach has lifted/settled-0".

Little more work right now but it will help assure you dont end up with the dented up aluminum that soo many overhead doors openings and walk in doors are trimeed with all because of frost heave.

I always liked to pour garage slabs 6" winder/longer than the building so the brickmolding will sit on a permanant part of the build and not overhang onto the approach like so many are done...all that does is open up the door to frost heave damage to material.

 

[Maine]

I am thinking just pour and let it go right up against the pavement?

Will def add more rebar.

 

[Cemoto]

I'm not an expert at all but I don't think a board would work well and it would be difficult to remove.

How about tar paper? Then you can seal the seam later.

I do have a suggestion though which I wish I had done. How about setting a 4" PVC pipe in the apron so you can pass your garden hose through it and you wouldn't need to be driving over it.

Regards,

 

[Maine]

IHI - thanks a lot for the detailed input.