Concrete Block Question
- Thread starter Clinton_FL
- Start date
I believe that is a full 8x8x16 block, made for an end or corner.
It looks like the corner is knocked off of it too.
It looks like the corner is knocked off of it too.
bgott
Well-known member
WNYflyer
Well-known member
Yep, as bgott said looks like a sash block. Typically used on both edges of a door or window opening. For sash blocks with the rounded corner, the corner goes on the outside face of the building and the edge of the opening and the slot accepts a metal window typically.
If all the blocks are that type with the both the rounded corner and slot then they are not what you want for a majority of your wall. Thus the reason for a good price I suspect.
Sounds like you maybe building the 4' high block wall on top of a concrete slab and then framing a stick built wall on top of the block. If that is the case be very careful. The block will have to be vertically reinforced and the cores grouted at those locations. And even then the block wall is only as good as the connection to the concrete and what the slab can resist.
Basically you are building a cantilevered block retaining wall, but rather than holding back soil you are resisting 1/2 the wind on the 10' wood wall height plus the wind on the wall itself. Got to be really careful, especially with the block to slab/foundation connection and how much the slab/foundation can handle.
If all the blocks are that type with the both the rounded corner and slot then they are not what you want for a majority of your wall. Thus the reason for a good price I suspect.
Sounds like you maybe building the 4' high block wall on top of a concrete slab and then framing a stick built wall on top of the block. If that is the case be very careful. The block will have to be vertically reinforced and the cores grouted at those locations. And even then the block wall is only as good as the connection to the concrete and what the slab can resist.
Basically you are building a cantilevered block retaining wall, but rather than holding back soil you are resisting 1/2 the wind on the 10' wood wall height plus the wind on the wall itself. Got to be really careful, especially with the block to slab/foundation connection and how much the slab/foundation can handle.
OP
Clinton_FL
Member
Here is my plan, and I will state this first, I am not a professional, and am not 100% on the building code in the area.
1. Pour a 16x10 footer the length I need with re-bar vertically out of it.
2. Build my block wall. Final course will be Tie-in block or lintel block with re-bar and J bolts to hold the bottom plate of the regular wall. This course will be filled with concrete.
3. Attach wall to block via j bolts, and every other J bolt run a threaded rod to the top plate.
That is the plan I have in my head....
1. Pour a 16x10 footer the length I need with re-bar vertically out of it.
2. Build my block wall. Final course will be Tie-in block or lintel block with re-bar and J bolts to hold the bottom plate of the regular wall. This course will be filled with concrete.
3. Attach wall to block via j bolts, and every other J bolt run a threaded rod to the top plate.
That is the plan I have in my head....
Last edited:
Abrasive Trader
New member
If you have a 4' high wall bearing load on top, you should bend 8' sections of rebar on a 90 at about 42'. Point the horizontal rebar (the 42" length) inward towards the slab and thicken the 42" strip of concrete on the perimeter of your slab basically making that your footing. Make it at least 12" thick Then you'll end up w/ 4' sections sticking up vertical, cause about 6" should be buried in conc. Then you can slide your blocks over the rebar.
This way you can pour your slab and footing monolithic, finish the floor and have a nice level surface to frame walls on. On the outside perimeter, before you pour the slab/footing, make sure to layout one course of blocks so the rebars end up in the centers of the block cavity.
You gotta be good to do this one...If you really want to save time, before you grout the cavities you can layout your wall sill plate, drill holes for j-bolts, and install the j-bolts on the sill plate and install the sill while the grout is wet. Make sure to slosh the j-bolts up & down to get them stuck in the concrete with good coverage.
This way you can pour your slab and footing monolithic, finish the floor and have a nice level surface to frame walls on. On the outside perimeter, before you pour the slab/footing, make sure to layout one course of blocks so the rebars end up in the centers of the block cavity.
You gotta be good to do this one...If you really want to save time, before you grout the cavities you can layout your wall sill plate, drill holes for j-bolts, and install the j-bolts on the sill plate and install the sill while the grout is wet. Make sure to slosh the j-bolts up & down to get them stuck in the concrete with good coverage.