Concrete caulking where floor meets wall?

[waynefish]

I'm prepping the floor for epoxy-coat.

Does anyone recommend using concrete caulking for where the garage floor meets the wall? I'm thinking this might prevent water from seeping down when pressure washing the floor. I'm paranoid any water that seeps down will come back up and peel the epoxy. Do I need to worry about this?

Thanks for your input : )

 

[ESlab]

This is exactly what I wanted to ask. I have an old garage with existing caulk, but I want to know what the best caulk to replace it with is.

All input is appreciated!

 

[Cobra6]

I am sure Christine will chime in when she gets to work -
but I do know you cannot use any caulking that contains silicone with Epoxy-Coat.

She recommended latex caulk for any cracks in the floor. If you don't know if the existing caulk is silicon-based, you may need to strip it and replace with something else.

 

[srode]

I think Christine's point is you can't use silicone cauk and expect epoxy coat to adhere to it -that doesn't mean you couldn't use silicone cauk to seal the edge after the epoxy coat is down. I'm actually thinking about the same thing with my saw cuts - the floor is done but thinking I need to seal the cuts as there are cracks at the bottom of all of them and water will seep into them for sure if I don't seal them. Debating between clear silcone or finding a colored latex that is close in color to the beige epoxy coat. I'm thinking I will fill to just shy of flush with the floor surface to reduce dirt being trapped as well.

 

[AlphaGarage]

If the floor epoxy is of good quality, and applied properly, you shouldn't worry about water peeling it off, in fact we have quite a few contractors who use our epoxies as a pool or pond or fountain liner coating (see pic below).

But if you want to fill the crack for aesthetic reasons, or you don't want water to get under the slab, or you don't like items to fall into the crack, then by all means fill them in. If you want something that's more durable than a caulk you can fill that area with an epoxy that remains somewhat flexible after it's fully cured, that way another crack won't form later when there's a slight amount of movement between the wall and floor (movement from hot/cold cycling, settling, seismic activity etc.). And no, do not use any silicone based product if you're going to epoxy over it.


BTW - that intersection where the floor meets the wall is known as the "chine".

 

[Cobra6]

I think Christine's point is you can't use silicone cauk and expect epoxy coat to adhere to it -that doesn't mean you couldn't use silicone cauk to seal the edge after the epoxy coat is down. I'm actually thinking about the same thing with my saw cuts - the floor is done but thinking I need to seal the cuts as there are cracks at the bottom of all of them and water will seep into them for sure if I don't seal them. Debating between clear silcone or finding a colored latex that is close in color to the beige epoxy coat. I'm thinking I will fill to just shy of flush with the floor surface to reduce dirt being trapped as well.

I am in exactly the same boat - I think I am going to go with some concrete caulk around the outside and some latex on the inside where the floor coating will touch it. I think I will do the acid wash/treatment and get the cracks dry and add the caulk before the epoxy-coat.
I have not seen any caulk that won't get a bunch of dirt, gradoo, and stain in it and look bad the first time you spill something on it.

 

[darkk]

BTW - that is known as the "chine".

Are jew chure? Dats wat I do aster I wash da car....I chine it wid a good coat a wax....