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Concrete costs..?

Red Car Garage

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Jan 13, 2005
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Indiana
I would like to get my drive way done this summer..
It is 16 feet deep and 51 feet wide..

about how much will it be for cost of just the concrete.. ?
and anyone have any idea how much it would be installed? :)

thx
 
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OI812

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Jan 8, 2005
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Toward the cost of concrete can't you call a concrete company in your area and see how much they are getting a yard? I think in my area they are getting around 65.00/yard.

At 16 feet by 51 feet and a depth of 4 inches you have about 10 yards. 10 x 65 = 650.00. That is rough, but an idea. What type of base are you putting under the concrete. How about rebar or wire mesh? Just things to think about.
 

plapczynski

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Chillicothe, OH
OK I give up. What's the formula to calculate cubic yards of concrete.

I thought it would be length x width to give you cubic feet.
Then divided by inches in depth divided by 12.
Then divided by 3 to get cubic yards.

I must have missed something.
 

Major Ramifications

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River Ridge, Louisiana
plapczynski said:
OK I give up. What's the formula to calculate cubic yards of concrete.

I thought it would be length x width to give you cubic feet.
Then divided by inches in depth divided by 12.
Then divided by 3 to get cubic yards.

I must have missed something.

There are several ways to do it, but correcting your formula:
Length X Width X Height will give you volume.
So, 51 X 16 X .333 (4" is 1/3 of a foot) = 272 cubic feet
Since there are 27 cubic feet (3 cubed) in a cubic yard, we divide 272 by 27 and get about 10 cubic yards of concrete.
 

428

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s.c.
How much?

Rule of :thumbup: I've used is one cubic yard covers 81 sq. ft. 3" thick, so 51 x 16 = 816 sq. ft. Divide by 81 sq. ft. equals 10.07 yards.
 
OP
R

Red Car Garage

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Well I had a guy come an look over what i wanted.. It is going to be bigger than I thought..

one part is 16X40 and the other is 12X16.. it will be 5in thick with 6 bag concrete with the fiber mesh **** in it..

Total out the door is $2250.. EEK! I know it is alot but I really want it done.. Save save save..:)
 

NHCharger

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That's $160./ CY. My concrete floor guy charges me $ 120./cy for my garage floors. Thats with me having everything ready as far as finish grade set and door drops already done. If this guy has to form everything up it seems like a fair price.
 
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OI812

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I just calculated up your Cubic Yards and it was 12.83 Cu. Yds. Take your 2250 and divide that by 12.83 and it comes up to 175 a cu. yd. I don't know what concrete is going for in your area, but if it is around 75 cu. yd., then your paying approx. 100 a cu. yd. for labor. Depends what he has to do to install it, but that doesn't sound all that unreasonable.

I know some concrete guys aren't that big on the fiber mesh. For what you get and what you pay, I'm not sure it is worth it. I still like my steel mesh, just remember it needs to be pulled up in the concrete not left at the bottom of the slab. Maybe there are some cement guys that could answer this better.

Also is this an outside slab? You didn't say if they were adding air to the concrete.
 

sca037

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Metro Detroit Area- MI
Asphalt ???

When we built our place, I wanted a paved driveway for sure. It's about 50' wide at the apron for the garages, and narrows to about 20' wide at the street (about 75' away). We ended up going with asphalt for the driveway and apron, which co$t us about what the concrete apron alone would have. I don't park extremely heavy vehicles or point-concentrating things like trailer tongue jacks on it in the Summer, and 2+ years later it's still looking great :thumbup:

Just a thought,
Brian
 

Kevin54

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It's $225. a yard delivered..... where I live...
:eek:

I'm in Ohio and where I'm at it's $85 for the fibermesh concrete. I'm also one that is not overly cracked on th efibermesh. Either wire mesh or rebar. All the fibermesh concrete is..is concrete with fiberglass strands in it. It will still crack. Wire mesh keeps it from pulling apart, rebar is stronger in my opinion but also more costly. The key is having the control joinst sawed in and good support at the control joints. If you know ahead of time where they are going to be sawed then use rebar at these areas for strength. The next thing and most important is a good solid base. If you don't have that, then it doesn't matter what you do on top. Here is a good calculator for what you are doing along with some good info:

Concrete Calculator

Kevin
 

OI812

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Yep the base is the ticket. When I poured my driveway 8 years ago, I excavated it out to 17 inches below finished driveway. I put in 10 inches of 3-5 inch stone, with 2 inches of 3/4 crushed stone on top of that. My base was 12 inches total, and then 5 inches of concrete. When the cement trucks where on it, there tires didn't even leave marks. Spend the money on getting a good base it makes all the difference in the world. My drive hasn't cracked or move in 8 years.
 

plepper

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Eastern Washington St.
Be careful of the glass mesh for a floor in a shop or garage if not sealed with a coating of some sort it can get itchy if you lay on it! should be ok if you paint the floor
 

DynoDave

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Michigan
plepper said:
Be careful of the glass mesh for a floor in a shop or garage if not sealed with a coating of some sort it can get itchy if you lay on it! should be ok if you paint the floor

While I do not have this concrete in my current garage, I would agree with this caution. My Dad had some work done in Florida a year or so ago, and they used the fiberglass material in the mix. Much of it is at the surface, and he's not very happy.
 

jstbecauz

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Spring Hill
Is there any concrete companies close to you? If so then set up your forms lay your steel and ask them to come by give you their washout. All you will have to do then is level it, there is another word for it but it has slipped my mind right now.
 

web docta

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Apr 12, 2005
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NC
Cost of concrete depends on your area, shop around and sometimes you can get it done for almost the cost of material which in my area is about $85.00 per cubic yard delivered. Most finishers here charge around $160 per cubic yard - finished.
I would recommend going with a 4000 PSI concrete. It doesn't cost much more than the 3000 PSI and you'll have a better chance that it won't crack.
Be sure to put a good base down and either tamp it down or let it settle for a long time. A good base is the key to having a good job without it cracking. I'd go with about an 8" gravel base. From my experience I wouldn't use the fiberglass reinforcement, I'd go with the iron mesh. It does a much better job. Good luck. :beer:
 
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