Concrete Densification

[simple man]

I am getting ready to make a decision on how to finish the floor in my newly built garage. And, I would like to get some validation from some of the more knowledgeable members on whether or not my assumptions are correct.

My primary goal is a have a surface that will be resistant to oil and fuel spills. I do not want a product that will require the use of a mechanical process, i.e. diamond grinding, in order to prepare the surface. I would prefer a product that will not need to be reapplied every couple of years.

Based on the above I am leaning towards using a densification product.

However, I have several questions.

First, will a densification product meet my needs? I am assuming that the densification product can be applied to the concrete without any surface preparation, other than making sure the floor is clean. At worst I figure I may need to do an acid etch in the floor.

Will the fact that the floor will have fiberglass strands have an effect(or is it affect) on the densification product?

If I should decide at a later date to put down tile, either VCT or porcelain/ceramic, would I be able to apply them directly over the “densified” concrete or would the concrete need to be ground down at that point in time.

Would I need to apply a top coating to the floor after applying the densifier for example a sealer of some type? Or, is the densifier OK by itself?

Finally, will the use of a densification product result in a floor surface that would be more slippery than the original concrete?

I would appreciate any comments on whether or not a concrete densifier would meet my goals.

Thanks

Rick

 

[Shea]

A densifier is generally used in the process of polishing concrete or for creating a more dense surface for grinding if it is too soft to begin with. I don't think you want to do either from what I understand. It can be applied to your concrete but it will still stain if not followed by a sealer. Could you be confusing the stain resistance of a densifier with the polishing of the concrete? Is there any other reason you feel you need a densifier other than for oil stain and fuel resistance?

From what you are describing that you want for your garage floor, it might be a penetrating sealer that you are after. Here is an article on the benefits of penetrating sealers that you may want to read.

You can install VCT or porcelain directly on densified concrete, but then again, a densifier by itself isn't going to resist stains. You still need a sealer along with it. You can install porcelain on concrete with a penetrating sealer. In fact, sometimes it is recommended. You can also apply the adhesive required for VCT floors on concrete with a penetrating sealer. You can't do the same over topical sealers though such as acrylic.

 

[Tre900]

Nice write up Shea.

 

[simple man]

Shea: Thank you for the info regarding concrete densifiers vs sealers.

However, I have a couple more questions.

Based on your write-up I would assume that I will need to acid etch the surface since my floor will be power trowled?

The write-up on your website mentions using a "siliconate" sealer. I have seen information about a "lithium" silicate sealer. Is one product, siliconate vs. lithium silicate, better than the other?

Thanks again

Rick

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Rick, if you want easy prep but want a blockade to stains, choose a good acrylic sealer.
You could densify prior if desired.

Here is a link to a garage tested sealer:
Link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd6600-gloss-sealer-interior-p-257.html

 

[Shea]

Based on your write-up I would assume that I will need to acid etch the surface since my floor will be power trowled?

The write-up on your website mentions using a "siliconate" sealer. I have seen information about a "lithium" silicate sealer. Is one product, siliconate vs. lithium silicate, better than the other?

In most cases you shouldn't have to acid etch when using the correct penetrating sealer for your concrete. The chemical makeup of penetrating sealers are designed for the density of the concrete it is being applied to. If it's a power trowled surface however, a light etching may be necessary. You should test it first.

Silicate sealers are used for real dense applications such as power troweled warehouse floors and some stone. The molecular base of silicates are very small. If you used a silicate sealer on a broom finished driveway for example, it would be wasted because it would penetrate too far into the substrate to do any good. The lithium silicate sealer you asked about is typically used for industrial and warehouse type of floors. It is used sometimes when honing or polishing concrete as well because the lithium helps to harden the concrete.

Siliconate sealers are a larger molecular formula and are more commonly used for driveways, walkways, garage floors, and patios as these surfaces are not as dense and the concrete is not the same as that used for a warehouse.

That said, I was under the impression that your slab was done. If it's not poured yet, I would talk with the people who are doing the finishing work about your final surface and concrete mix. They should be able to give you the best information about the density of the power trowled surface and whether or not you should need a silicate sealer vs. a siliconte sealer.

Have you talked to them about applying a sealer during the trowling? There are products out there that are designed to be applied to the concrete during the finishing that actually aids in the curing and sealing process.

 

[simple man]

Rick, if you want easy prep but want a blockade to stains, choose a good acrylic sealer.
You could densify prior if desired.

Here is a link to a garage tested sealer:
Link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd6600-gloss-sealer-interior-p-257.html

I have read that acrylic are thin and may need to be reapplied periodically.

Would the product you recommended need to be reappied?

Thanks

Rick

 

[simple man]

I have talked to my GC who has talked to the concrete people who said they are not aware of any product that can be applied during the finishing of the concrete.

So, I guess I will try to locate a sealer to apply after the garage is finished.

Rick

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

You can densify after you pull the forms. Naturally a cure and seal can be too.
Acrylics do need to be re-applied depending upon the traffic. However, coats adhere well to each other.

If you want to really block stains a topical sealer is the best way.