Concrete design for stick built 30x40

[Ecreps]

I am in the process of getting quotes for my foundation.

Getting multiple different designs. The options thus far are:

12" thickened edge slab, monolithic pour, reber and wire, block stem wall.

18" thickened edge slab, monolithic pour, wire,l block stem wall.

36" deep frost wall, separate pour for slab, stem wall as poured concrete (top section of frost wall basically). Is it ok to pour this directly in the ground without forms in the ground.

The building will not always be heated, my concern is that I could get heaving underneath the slab if it freezes with the 12" or 18" thickened edge.

I am located in NW Ohio in Wood County. I can't find anything that says one way or another in the regulations here for a detached structure,) but I dont want to have issues either. Obviously there is a price difference between them, so if there isnt an issue with the monolithic pour I would like to save the money.

 

[matt_i]

I would see if you can be allowed to do a trenched foundation. Basically 8" wide ditch witch or a mini-ex and trench down to 36".

Then as soon as its clean (don't delay! as rain can cause a mess) pour it full of concrete. Very easy to do for the truck, just align the chute with the long axis of the trench and let the grey mud flow. A little finishing and some rebar pegs to help tie it to the next step.

Then you can form the perimeter with 2x4 or 6s and pour the center full of concrete, finish, saw-cut and cure as your slab, install anchor bolts in pre-planned locations.

Both very inexpensive and you're off framing as soon as the concrete cures.

 

[TractorJeff]

18" thickened edge slab, 6" monolithic pour, rebar in SouthEast Wisconsin.
No cracking and locally approved. I park heavy equipment on it with no problems!

 

[Kevin54]

I'd go with the 36" deep footer.

 

[Ecreps]

I would see if you can be allowed to do a trenched foundation. Basically 8" wide ditch witch or a mini-ex and trench down to 36".

Then as soon as its clean (don't delay! as rain can cause a mess) pour it full of concrete. Very easy to do for the truck, just align the chute with the long axis of the trench and let the grey mud flow. A little finishing and some rebar pegs to help tie it to the next step.

Then you can form the perimeter with 2x4 or 6s and pour the center full of concrete, finish, saw-cut and cure as your slab, install anchor bolts in pre-planned locations.

Both very inexpensive and you're off framing as soon as the concrete cures.

I believe this is the direction I would go if the full frost wall is needed. The way I ahve seen it done is to form the stem wall right on top of the trench, pour that, then come back and pour the inside slab.

18" thickened edge slab, 6" monolithic pour, rebar in SouthEast Wisconsin.
No cracking and locally approved. I park heavy equipment on it with no problems!

I would really like to go this way to save some $$$ if possible. Is your building heated?

I'd go with the 36" deep footer.

Would you mind elaborating on the reasoning? Thanks.

 

[readhead]

Have you talked to the building department to ask what they expect?

 

[Ecreps]

Have you talked to the building department to ask what they expect?

I have an e-mail out to them, I believe either way is code acceptable where I live.

 

[maxpat82]

I have a full frost and 2' stem wall on mine and very happy with it....but it was 2,5x the price of a monolithic slab.