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Concrete failure during 2 Post Lift install

duanesz

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Mar 20, 2009
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58
Location
S.E. Michigan
Correct. They were hammering on the setting tool. The tool needs to seat against the top surface of the anchor. With repeated blows, it was not moving down at all and did not come in contact with the anchor.



I believe that the hole was drilled too shallow. But Im not sure. Wondering if anyone has experience with trying to set an anchor in a hole that is not deep enough. Did you find it would not set completely?


Well if anchor is just sitting in bottom of hole if will never set right they just keep pounding on it it at bottom of the hole.


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krandrew

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Feb 18, 2015
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Edmonton Ab
The depth of the hole has nothing to do with the drop in anchor setting properly. It only dictates the pull out strength. If they used a vacuum and tried to **** out the dust then there was likely some still in there. The proper way is to blow out the hole and use a brush on the sides.

Any bit of dust and it will not set properly.
 

gregtwojeeps

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Ky
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Last edited:

duanesz

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S.E. Michigan
I think what your trying to say I'd anchor was at bottom of hole. There was no where for into go when they were trying to set it. I don't think the anchor will set sitting at bottom of hole.


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OP
A
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Sep 4, 2015
Messages
23
***UPDATE***

Hey all,

So I talked to the owner of the company about what happened. To make a long story short, he came back out with the same 2 installers and installed another anchor in the same area that failed.

This time making sure to blow out any and all debris in the hole.

We dropped the anchor in again, and it went right to the bottom. (I verified with a Powers engineer that this is typical when using a brand new drill bit)

It took around 10 good hammer blows to easily set the anchor. Verified by the blue paint on the top of the anchor being removed.

And the result? No cracks!

The owner agreed the reason the anchors did not set all the way was because of the dust from drilling left in the hole. When they did not fully set, the installers hammered harder and harder on them until the concrete failed.

So he said they will do a pad for me at that spot for free. I wish the installers would have been less half-assed and more detail oriented. I hired them for their expertise in lift installations and not just for manual labor.

Anyways, I could have been working on my track car, but instead now I get to wait for concrete to dry. Yay
 

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walrus

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Nov 12, 2008
Messages
11,679
Location
Maine
***UPDATE***

Hey all,

So I talked to the owner of the company about what happened. To make a long story short, he came back out with the same 2 installers and installed another anchor in the same area that failed.

This time making sure to blow out any and all debris in the hole.

We dropped the anchor in again, and it went right to the bottom. (I verified with a Powers engineer that this is typical when using a brand new drill bit)

It took around 10 good hammer blows to easily set the anchor. Verified by the blue paint on the top of the anchor being removed.

And the result? No cracks!

The owner agreed the reason the anchors did not set all the way was because of the dust from drilling left in the hole. When they did not fully set, the installers hammered harder and harder on them until the concrete failed.

So he said they will do a pad for me at that spot for free. I wish the installers would have been less half-assed and more detail oriented. I hired them for their expertise in lift installations and not just for manual labor.

Anyways, I could have been working on my track car, but instead now I get to wait for concrete to dry. Yay
Who is doing the concrete work? I wouldn't want them doing it if they can screw up a anchor install. Make sure they drill rebar into original slab and also make sure they tunnel out under original slab so new concrete goes under it. I'd want over kill on rebar in new slab also which means you may need a rebar cutter when drilling new holes once concrete is set.
 
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johninct

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Dec 21, 2010
Messages
2,596
I would not trust a small spot pad. Maybe if it was 3'x3'x3' (cubic yard). You are using it to support a lift that you will be working under.
 

walrus

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Nov 12, 2008
Messages
11,679
Location
Maine
I would not trust a small spot pad. Maybe if it was 3'x3'x3' (cubic yard). You are using it to support a lift that you will be working under.
The lift manufacturer should have specs for what they want in this case. They pour pads for lifts all the time in locations where the concrete doesn't meet specs so I would want to see in writing what the lift manufacturer wants not what the installer wants
 
OP
A
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Sep 4, 2015
Messages
23
The lift manufacturer should have specs for what they want in this case. They pour pads for lifts all the time in locations where the concrete doesn't meet specs so I would want to see in writing what the lift manufacturer wants not what the installer wants

Lift manufacturer said minimum 3' x 3' footer, cut through concrete and go underneath existing slab, and also dowel into existing slab with rebar.

This is what the installers will be doing, except they said they usually do 4' x 4' when they need to concrete work at dealerships.

I feel like a bigger footer increases the distance from the anchor holes to the edge, so why not.
 

walrus

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Joined
Nov 12, 2008
Messages
11,679
Location
Maine
Lift manufacturer said minimum 3' x 3' footer, cut through concrete and go underneath existing slab, and also dowel into existing slab with rebar.

This is what the installers will be doing, except they said they usually do 4' x 4' when they need to concrete work at dealerships.

I feel like a bigger footer increases the distance from the anchor holes to the edge, so why not.

Sounds good, hope you get your lift soon, you will like it:thumbup:
 

Advan

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Joined
May 25, 2014
Messages
442
Location
Ontario, Canada
Drop-ins for a car hoist??? I'm no engineer, but that type of anchor would be my last choice, even behind tapcons....
 

omowright

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Joined
Dec 2, 2015
Messages
82
Location
Freetown, Sierra Leone
I have noticed that there are four bolt holes at the back of the column. The column width is 11.5". Is the distance between bolts not too small for the reaction cones of the anchors?

I am thinking about purchasing an Universalift and researching it ...
 
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