Concrete Filled Steel Post

[klean63]

I have a post in my garage, it's 3" diameter x 3/16 wall x 26" tall and filled with concrete, it's off to the side of the garage but it's in the way of some storage i'm planning. I'm not really sure of the best way to remove it.

1st thought was to put a metal cutting wheel on my makita, cut around the diameter of it then change to a concrete cutting wheel to cut thru the concrete. The problem with that method is the post is about 2" away from a wall so I wouldn't be able to get around it all the way.

2nd option was to use a reciprocating saw but it can't get close enough to the ground.

I guess my question would be, will the metal cutting wheel cut thru the concrete? I know it's likely going to eat up a a few cutting wheels but if it'll get thru i'd have no problem buying a few to get it done.

 

[Farres]

What's it there for? Must be protecting something.

 

[1steve]

Torch around bottom, sledge hammer to break concrete then grind whats left. Or long blade for reciprocating saw and use floor as guide with slight bow to blade. Only cutting pipe then break off with sledge.

 

[dumper]

cutting wheel around as much of the circumference as possible, wiggle top of pole left and right, and forward, concrete should easily fracture and last bit of pipe should fatigue . At least it sounds good in theory.

 

[Burtonrider10022]

Pics?

 

[klean63]

What's it there for? Must be protecting something.

It's in the single car stall of a 3 car garage. The original purpose was to protect the area where the water heater and forced air are from being run into if you were parking a car there. With the cabinets along the same wall and the way i've set up the garage there's no way a car is gonna park there.

Torch around bottom, sledge hammer to break concrete then grind whats left. Or long blade for reciprocating saw and use floor as guide with slight bow to blade. Only cutting pipe then break off with sledge.

Thanks, this may work if I can find a long enough blade.

 

[klean63]

Pics?

 

[Farres]

I think I'd use a hand grinder to get through the steel, as close to the floor as possible. Once you're through, the concrete should break easily. A few smacks with a sledge hammer on the remaining stump of concrete and grind the steel down. Rinse and repeat until it's a clean edge at floor level. I think a torch would be my last choice, though I guess you could scarf it that way.

 

[srmofo]

use an abrasive cutting wheel on the grinder. Just dont flex it. Once you are through the steel just break the concrete with a sledge. Switch to a grinding disc and take the steel down flush to the floor. Switch to a diamond cutting stone and grind the the concrete down flush

 

[Jrican]

Metal disk 1.5 to 3 inch from base as best you can, then stick a breaker with a wide chisel to break up concrete at that level. also you can probably break through the last few inches of metal with the the breaker. Then put sharp point bit on breaker and break up concrete in center of post down below the level of the floor vacuuming out the debris as you go. After that you can go back with your metal disk and cut off even at the floor, and fill in with new concrete.

 

[Burtonrider10022]

I'd recommend either 2-3 full sticks of dynamite or possibly some thermite. Either of those should make quick work of your pole.

 

[Garage5.9]

Own a target saw ? If not rent one and it would take a easy 45 seconds with a concrete mason blade

 

[Jrican]

Own a target saw ? If not rent one and it would take a easy 45 seconds with a concrete mason blade

You peaked my curiosity at the least, I googled, and failed. Please educate me/us on what a 'target saw' is.

 

[Garage5.9]

You peaked my curiosity at the least, I googled, and failed. Please educate me/us on what a 'target saw' is.

This is what is referred to as a target saw , doesn't have to be a husqvarna but anything similar will do. They make various blades for cutting different materials , asphalt , masonry , rail road track etc. Target saw is a brand but most people in construction refer to these saws as target saws. well most people here do anyway

 

[Jrican]

We call them concrete saws, Hilti makes something very similar. I would question the blades durability/longevity in this situation, but I've never tried. But I'm thinking trough the post not around it. Around it would still require a breaker.

 

[DIC]

I'd leave it and weld a receiver hitch on it. It would make a good grinder or vice stand

 

[buzz4041]

I'd leave it and weld a receiver hitch on it. It would make a good grinder or vice stand

That is what I would also. Perfect situation for this.

 

[deter]

I agree that the bollard you have there would make a great tool stand

 

[steel 35]

I'd leave it and weld a receiver hitch on it. It would make a good grinder or vice stand

You may find its code to be there as well.

 

[djjsr]

As mentioned earlier, cut the pipe with a torch and hit it with a sledge hammer. It will break off. It's easier than you may think (if you know how to use a cutting torch).

I had eight filled pipes that were 8" diameter. I was dreading the job. Turned out to be much easier than I thought.

 

[DaleK]

How long has it been there? If it's more than about 10 years, hit it with a sledgehammer and it might just break right off (rusted out at the bottom)

 

[Tribalvision]

I agree with the torch/sledge hammer recommendation. It will probably take less than 15 minutes to torch around that.

 

[matouse3]

When we put these in my father's business, there was rebar running through the center of the post and into the slab. Maybe not in your case as its a residential application, but the sledge hammer trick might night be as easy as suggested.

 

[Steevo]

Check before you whack it off.
I don't recall whether it is Calif. Plumbing Code, or Building Code, but one of them requires a bollard protection for any WH or HVAC unit installed in a space where moving vehicles can be. If the house was built after the code was adopted, you could end up having to replace it when you go to sell.

 

[KMinAF]

Let me throw this out there, what if you cut the concrete around the base of the bollard and worked it loose like an old fence post? This assumes of course that it isn't buried six feet deep.

 

[klean63]

use an abrasive cutting wheel on the grinder. Just dont flex it. Once you are through the steel just break the concrete with a sledge. Switch to a grinding disc and take the steel down flush to the floor. Switch to a diamond cutting stone and grind the the concrete down flush

I'm going to give this a shot this weekend, i'll report back

I'd recommend either 2-3 full sticks of dynamite or possibly some thermite. Either of those should make quick work of your pole.

If the above method doesn't work I may try this

How long has it been there? If it's more than about 10 years, hit it with a sledgehammer and it might just break right off (rusted out at the bottom)

The entire 20 years we've been here. We bought the house new so I know it hasn't had a lot of water exposure.

You may find its code to be there as well.

Check before you whack it off.
I don't recall whether it is Calif. Plumbing Code, or Building Code, but one of them requires a bollard protection for any WH or HVAC unit installed in a space where moving vehicles can be. If the house was built after the code was adopted, you could end up having to replace it when you go to sell.

Thats what I thought, but not every house in the neighborhood has it and they were all built at the same time.

 

[lakee911]

Typically these are broken by cutting the steel post and a sharp whack with a sledge will break the concrete off clean at the cut. I wouldn't be surprised if a snap cutter did it all in one step.

Most likely, the code requires the bollard to be there.

 

[Kevin54]

You may find its code to be there as well.

This. It's there to protect the furnace and water heater if someone accidently steps on the gas instead of the brake.

 

[kbs2244]

Was the original floor poured around it?
Or was it installed later.
If later you should be able remove the patching concrete then wiggle it back and forth and pull it up.

 

[thightower]

After you get the pipe cut. The concrete should break with the help of a 16lb sledge. My philosophy, if it don't move get a bigger hammer.

 

[mrpowderkeg]

This with a diamond blade will cut almost anything. It will cut the post and the concrete.

 

[nataliaR]

We have the same damn post in our garage. It 'protects' washing machine area. I want to buy a front loading washing machine or bigger top loader but this post prevents us from installing front loader or washing machine bigger then 27X27 inches.
I was wondering if you was able to remove your post and how did you do it.
Thank you

 

[coffeebean]

use the rotary saw with a diamond blade. get the one with the water attachment or you will cover your entire work area with concrete dust. make sure to clean the saw while the slurry is still wet or you will have to disassemble the entire saw to get it clean.

if you don't get the water attachment make sure you use respiratory protection. i heard concrete stuff is bad stuff.
dave

 

[Cougar67]

Check before you whack it off.
I don't recall whether it is Calif. Plumbing Code, or Building Code, but one of them requires a bollard protection for any WH or HVAC unit installed in a space where moving vehicles can be. If the house was built after the code was adopted, you could end up having to replace it when you go to sell.

I was about to say the same thing. It looks like there's a gas water heater in that closet. If so the post should stay.