To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Concrete guys - a question please

dirttracker18

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
3,191
Location
Slate River, ON
So when I built my garage I had a floor drain put in. Unfortunately the guy that finished the floor ended up with a hump right where the drain is (about an inch in a 12 to 18 inch circle).

I have been using a floor squeegee to push the winter melt water into my drain for 4 years now and have had enough. The issue is that I have infloor heat so I cannot just bust up that area and rebuild.

My thought is to cut a square about two feet out from my drain, which would go past the hump to the low spots, with a grinder and a masonary disk. I need about an inch and a little down to drain. My thought is to cut about two inches down and chip out the area to that depth. This would leave me with about a 4 foot square rough chipped.

Then I want to refill the area sloped to the drain. This would fix my drainage issues for the most part (save for that one area, damn that ****** finisher).

Can this be done and make it last? Is two inches deep enough to have a reasonable repair? Recommendation of materials for the best repair?

Any advice is welcomed.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
D

dirttracker18

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
3,191
Location
Slate River, ON
For that small area, why don't you try a diamond cup wheel? I could grind down a spot like that in no time.

I like the idea, I actually has a less agressive cup already but it was slow going, and brutally dusty :scared: It's getting cold out but if it does work pretty fast I could crack open the service door and turn on the big exhaust fan.

Suggestions for finishing after, if any? The underlying stone would be exposed so can I somehow make it look like the rest of the floor or is that just the new look?
 
Last edited:

Burtonrider10022

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 20, 2012
Messages
695
Location
Chicago, IL
cut a few shallow slits in the floor at a slight grade towards the drain.

\ | /
-O-
/ | \


Kinda like that ^^ so that the water around it will drain into the slits and then be taken through the higher concrete and into the drain. Obviously, the lines in my "drawing" would go all the way to the drain
 

sophijo

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
131
Location
SE Michigan
If you're going to do all that work you might as well cut out the whole piece; and re-pour with ready-mix; maybe reset drain as well.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ConCretin

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,380
Location
Central Maine
I'd go with the grinder. You'll expose some aggregate but it won't be that noticeable and it will look and perform better than a patch material
 

Engineer61

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2012
Messages
225
Location
Colorado
You may need to search the local rental yards for one, but there is a tool for grinding down concrete - it's like a floor buffer except instead of a scrubbing or buffing pad, it has a wheel with carbide teeth on it. Saw it on one of the Home shows on TV where a concrete floor had been very badly finished (more like it hadn't been finished at all, just poured and left with lots of ridges and humps everywhere) and after a full day of using this grinding machine they got the inspector to finally pass the floor.
 

FluxCore

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2012
Messages
229
Location
Born and raised in Germany, settled in Lousyana
I like the suggestion of cutting the star shaped slots.....super easy and quick...I'd never thought of it....After all, you are just draining water, and that would would work perfectly and could be done with even a hand held HF 4.5" grinder and a few cheap discs
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom