To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Concrete over concrete

Bomber Frank

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2013
Messages
60
Location
The North Coast
Some history, my shop caught fire earlier this year, coverage denied. Long story, but need to move on.
So, my old shop was basically a pole barn (36' x 60') with an interior area of 24' x 40' that was heated.
I am planning on replacing the building with a 24' x 40' garage that matches my house better.
I want to use a monolithic slab this time around and I will be installing floor heat.
So here's the question:
What are the thoughts on pouring the new slab over the existing concrete floor? I would need to cut the floor around the perimeter and remove the concrete in order to get the right depth around the edges and place rebar in these areas. I would lay rigid insulation board over the old floor, and then add the new floor on top of this.
The old floor never moved, never cracked and is solid. The floor was poured 15 years ago. I just think that this is a solid base, and don't want to rip it out and dispose of the concrete if I don't have to.
Did I explain this well enough?
Let me know what your thoughts are....thanks.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
B

Bomber Frank

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2013
Messages
60
Location
The North Coast
To answer above, I want to get away from the pole barn type structure.
The existing slab is not structural, it was just the floor inside the heated part of the building.
My understanding on the monolithic slab was that it was to all be tied together.
And to be honest, by pouring over, I would be able to gain about 6" in vertical height which would help with drainage.
I've been kicking various things around for about a month now, it seems the more I think about it, the more confused I get.
 

willymakeit

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
1,242
Location
Springfield Mo.
Do a mono with the turndowns past the existing slab. No different than calling the existing slab a mud slab. Put a vapor barrier between them so they don't bond together.
 

C96

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
1,251
Do a mono with the turndowns past the existing slab. No different than calling the existing slab a mud slab. Put a vapor barrier between them so they don't bond together.

I agree also, good answer.

image.php
Quote:
Originally Posted by James-W
viewpost.gif

I brainwashed a woman once, I stomped on her douchbag.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Zeke, every time I see a post of yours with the James-W quote, I laugh my *** off! :lol_hitti
 

tlmartin84

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
1,085
Location
West Virginia
I concur with all of the above.

My thought was if you wanted to save yourself some money, you could just pour footers, form up some walls, attach expansion to the edges of the existing slab and pour the walls right up to the floor.

The concrete would fill any edge voids created when digging the foundation. The wall and footing would make an L shape which is perfectly acceptable with the right reinforcement.
 

AP514

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2014
Messages
768
Location
Pearland, Tx
if you are going to pour on top just shave /rough up existing slab..use some concrete milk and then pour new crete on top..if less than 3 " just add fiber additive in the crete mix no rebar needed.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

D.J.

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 16, 2009
Messages
1,116
Location
New Haven IL
OK I'll be the nosetty SOB, why was coverage denied? Just wandering as I'm in the fire service!
THanks D.J.
 

willymakeit

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
1,242
Location
Springfield Mo.
I like that answer. I was wondering about the insulation board between the slabs.
Its not a problem. Anything to keep them separated. Thought is to allow them to move a little independently of each other.
We do it on large footings a lot. By large think 20'X30'X10'.
 

ACDNate

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 15, 2011
Messages
150
Location
Ocean Spings, MS
Its not a problem. Anything to keep them separated. Thought is to allow them to move a little independently of each other.
We do it on large footings a lot. By large think 20'X30'X10'.

Sweet Baby Jesus! a 20'x30'x10" footer? What kind of building is going on that?
 

bad_idea

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2011
Messages
4,332
Location
Pasquotank, NC
Here is a thought. The cost of pouring a fresh slab vs pouring over the old one can't be too much different. Perhaps move the building back to use the existing slab as a large parking area in front of the new shop?
 
OP
B

Bomber Frank

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2013
Messages
60
Location
The North Coast
D.J., coverage was denied due to misrepresentation. Seems the broker didn't let the insurance company know about a woodstove.
Bad Idea, already doing this. Moving back 20' already to have some concrete parking area.
 

willymakeit

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
1,242
Location
Springfield Mo.
Crazy engineering. Used on a elevator shaft [6 stories] and one for each stair tower [2].Then cast in place shafts and towers with gang forms.
They called it moment of turnover ,tho I've never seen a 6 story building turnover.
See this kind of footings on water towers ect. Concrete suppliers love you.
2/3 pump trucks with 2 trucks at each pump delivering concrete. Have had over a 100 yds in trucks lined up to deliver as much as they can quickly. Keeps the testing engineers hopping to.
 

D.J.

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 16, 2009
Messages
1,116
Location
New Haven IL
Bomber Frank sorry about your bad luck maybe a learning experience for newcomers to the site, also a plus for a standalone detached wood burner or pellet stove for radiant.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom