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Concrete pad wrong, what to do?

OP
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Jul 5, 2022
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I don't think you're in as bad a shape as you think on the water. Just cut down the land some on that side and it shouldn't run down onto your pad in that area. At least, from what we can see in the pictures.
Agreed I’m not in horrible shape, just for what I spent in the pad I should have a better result and able to fit the building hD plans for. Now just have to adapt, with new plan.
Buy 27x30. They cut it to 27x26. I use on side and back z flashing under the sheet metal to edge of concrete. It’s be 1” z channel. The hard part of that is the 12’ where the shed and garage pad are connected. The concrete guy cut a v grove in it. I had to file and chisel the end of it to let it help stop holding water. Did that since this post and it is helping it a bit not hold water right this.
Thankfully none the water on the pad is due to the ground being a higher level in one corner of pad. Any water on pad is only due to rain from the sky, not run off on too pad
Oh other hard part is I’d have 6” of concrete at the front of the garage. And also that mess the concrete guy made with my old pad that was just fine and perfect height for the front of garage.
Still can’t commit on plan need to take for it...
 
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OP
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Jul 5, 2022
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Best to go to your local city/planning department and verify permit/plans/engineering needed. A 27X27 is much bigger than a typical "shed" that you can usually get away without asking. Would be a bummer to keep going through stuff just to find out that they require much more than you think or have "planned" on doing.

Where are you located?
Agreed. I did email local and he said the size I’m looking to do is no problem. Just have to be sure size of building and come do the permits.
Kentuckiana
Southern Indiana
 
Last edited:
OP
W
Joined
Jul 5, 2022
Messages
22
Saw this on YouTube. Wonder if can do this with the z Chanel where shed and garage pad meet to help the garage from a lot of water.
 

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firebirdparts

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Kingsport, TN
Here's my take on that. When the building is there, that flat part of the buliding slab will be indoors. It's not weird to have a flat floor indoors or even have a little depression in it. You keep the rain outside. That happens 10 feet off the ground, up above. Since the shed is destroyed, it's not obvious that you'll ever have the shed pad indoors. If you do, then you connect the buildings appropriately and you'll never have a problem. But if you don't, rain is gonna fall on that little pad and it may want to run under your wall. I think you may want to cut a slot down through there between the pads. Flashing on the ground does not really matter if you have water running along the ground. You make the water go somewhere BELOW the place where you don't want water. A low place.
 

Shocker

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Nov 23, 2008
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Location
Olympia, WA
It is surprising that there is no perimeter foundation. Mine has a 16" deep perimeter with a 4" stem wall. It is a standard stick built 24x32. That is code here.

What I might do is a pole building. They should be able to drive the poles around the perimeter of the slab and you can deal with sealing it off from there. You can sheet the pole building with T1-11 or Hardy Plank/Board or whatever.

You might be able to save a bit by having the main structure built and you enclose it. Should be cake really.

I think I might do French drains around the perimeter as well just to be sure.
 
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BombShelter

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State of Hockey
Back when I was a young kid selling concrete flatwork we used to like to know a few things. What was being built on the concrete? Where's the property line? Do you want a slope? Up here you definately need a permit and it's one of those that make's sense. The inspector comes out and makes sure your not too close to the neighbors and that the concrete guys are doing the correct footing for your building.

Without a plan the concrete guy is just pouring a giant patio unless you have a detailed quote saying exactly what he is going to do and the litlle things like concrete PSI, thickness, type of reinforcement (rebar, mesh or crappy filiment) and type of support (class 5, sand, nothing).

If there's no "thickened edges" you may be screwed, I know buildings were built on stacks of stone in the old days but some of the code, especially foundations, is built on experience and really makes for a long lasting dry, non-sinking building.

Changing a "standard-size" building is not easy, the builder has to re-engineer the structure, sure he's just cutting off part of it but there may be a ton of work to get to the finished product.

I wouldn't worry about the water, the roof will direct it off, it the old concrete directs it into the new garage, you may to need to saw-cut a drainage grate to re-direct it.
 

claymont

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Oct 26, 2010
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434
Location
CLAYMONT, DE
Why aren't you going after the guy who broke your existing slab? He broke he should fix it or compensate you for it.
 

starquestMM

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Jan 7, 2013
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Location
JC, Missouri
Drew up some more ideas and found one i think could work well and be simpler. Sacrificing the additional garage space(s) and scaling down the under garage section so its just big enough for the scut. Roughly this will be 28wx25dx14h and the under garage something like 11wx19dx9h.

layout.JPG
 

Daniel Dudley

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Sep 4, 2009
Messages
3,546
If it were mine, I'd have stick framed a building on that slab and would be dried-in a couple days later.


He's right, you know.
It's four walls and some trusses made to order. You need at least a sketch, and two guys who know how to frame. And possibly a crane or a big excavator to lift the trusses.

You need to use the buddy system. You need to find a buddy who knows how to swim and won't let you drown. Or you can sit on it until you figure it out. I poured a 26x30 slab, and it sat for three years before I framed on it. But there was good drainage, and it was over six inches in the middle, and 14" around the perimeter. But I am not worried about your slab, as long as you get the water moving away from it.

Do you know anyone you could call on to look at what you have and give you some advice? My personal opinion is that we can't give you a tutorial. Maybe you should not be in charge of this. But feel free to prove me wrong.
 
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