Concrete Patio ?'s

[Jeepguy]

Guys,

I just dug out for a 14'x 20' patio that will sit against two exterior walls of my house. My questions are, for a pad this size should i section it? and if so how many sections 4 or 2. Also should i use wire mesh, or should i just not worry about it? Its goiong to sit on 4" of cinders and a 5" pad, is that okay?

Thanks for any input.

 

[Rrumbler]

I'd quarter it, and use welded wire reinforcement in it. As to the base, it sounds good to me, but not knowing the soil in your area, or being up on the temperature variances there, - - -- -?? I did all of my concrete work in sunny SoCal.

 

[Krodad]

I tend to cut more than I need to, and on that slab I would probably split the 14' and divide the 20' in three. Also, I have had great success using galvanized wire "cattle panels" as reinforcement. It is heavier guage wire, galvanized (obviously), and it is relatively cheap and very easy to get (at least here in Iowa). I cut it with a small bolt cutters. Make sure you chair the wire...don't rely on proper placement by "floating" it in. Also make sure you use a filler between the house foundation and the patio.

 

[Jeepguy]

i live in southern central PA and i dont really have soil its more like red clay, which is very sturdy from a foundation stand-point. i dug and leveled on friday and it rained from friday night until yesterday morning and i had no low spots from leveling. I just have never poured a pad this big and was wondering what the best way to re-enforce would be. Thanks for the input

 

[boiler7904]

14 x 20 - One joint in centered in each direction. None are really required since it is under 400 square feet and 20' or less in any one direction.

Definitely use the wire mesh. Panels work better than rolls if available. Support the mesh somehow so that it stays in the middle of the slab. I'd use 2" high metal wire chairs. Letting the finish crew pull it into place is a waste of time and doesn't do anything for you. The mesh gets pushed to the bottom of the slab.

Use a 1/2" expansion joint filler between the patio and each side of the house. The pre-cut tear away kind meant to be covered with an exterior sealant looks better than the black.

I would think that cinders will be ok as long as they are compacted properly and all of the topsoil below has been removed and you let the soil dry out for a day or two.

Make sure the patio pitches away from the building in both directions.

 

[wilbilt]

i live in southern central PA and i dont really have soil its more like red clay, which is very sturdy from a foundation stand-point.

We have similar "soil" here in NorCal....In the summer it's as hard as concrete, but in the wet season it is bottomless gumbo.

The problem with clays is that they swell and move when wet. I think the advice that has been given for reinforcing mesh and at least one control joint in each direction is good advice.

We don't have to worry about frost action here, but the "clay heave" needs to be considered.

I have poured small slabs and sidewalks that heaved all over the place due to the slick, gooey clay.