Concrete roof tile nailing pattern

[Zogman]

I'm having my concrete tiles delivered roof top next week. I know on my house which is about 8 years old, not all of the tiles are nailed into the batten boards. This allows easy removal and replacement. But I'm wondering how many get nailed in.... every other tile, every other row or every 3rd row type of thing.

Any thoughts???

Thanks

 

[kenfath]

When our home was reroofed using flat concrete tiles which had two nail holes, both received a nail EXCEPT for a couple of tiles which weren't nailed. We found them a year or two later when they slipped from position. Not sure this answered your question but from what I've seen each tile needs at least a nail.

Just curious -- we had to plywood cover the batten boards to bring the roof up to then current code. Roof was permitted and had city inspection. Friends had their roof done more recently and were required to remove the batten boards replacing with OSB sheets.

 

[Zogman]

Thanks Ken. Chances are then you did not have batten boards on top of the plywood sheets. That explains why every tile was nailed. In my case, which is new construction, I have OSB on top of my rafters and will have battens secured to the osb into the rafters. The tiles have a ledge that grab onto the batten so 100% nailing is not necessary....... I think!!!

 

[Architorture]

i'd try to find the installation manual from the manufacturer. i don't have a ton of experience with concrete tile, but with terra cotta tile roofs there are a variety of factors that go into the type and configuration of fastening...there are some systems that use an adhesive instead of nails now.

for most systems installed under the more rigorous florida standards for high winds, every tile is fastened. i'd suspect in southern california you might like to do the same in case anything starts to shake and rattle.

remember that you are attaching a concrete tile, which is most likely going to shrink some amount over its life to a piece of wood which is going to both shrink and expand as well as warp throughout its life. if the tile isn't positively attached to the batten you create the opportunity for the tile to become unsupported at the top which could lead to early failure.

 

[BlackTalon]

These cost a few bucks but ordering the proper one may be a good investment for you: http://tileroofing.org/resources/installation-guides/

 

[Zogman]

Thanks Archi, I'm buying some new old stock Hansen Tiles that are surplused here in So. Cal. I went to the Hansen website and did find a technical bulletin on installation.

5 units vertical in 12 units horizontal and below (42% slope), fasteners not required. Above 5 units vertical in 12 units
horizontal (42% slope) to less than 12 units vertical in 12 units horizontal (100% slope), one fastener per tile every
other row or every other tile in each course. Twelve units vertical in 12 units horizontal (100% Slope) to 24 units vertical
in 12 units horizontal (200% slope), one fastener every tile4. All perimeter tiles require one fastener5. Tiles with installed
weight less than 9 pounds per square foot require a minimum of one fastener per tile, regardless of roof slope. See
current code approved evaluation report for additional installation requirement.

Solid sheathing without battens One fastener per tile


So for me it will be 1 nail per tile every other row!! Thanks for all your help folks.

 

[bigdav160]

My roof is 40+ year old. It's been through a couple hurricanes and a few tropical storms.

Pitch is 4 on 12.

Very few nails. There are some along the hips and valleys but not in the field

 

[Iron-Iceberg]

I would nail the first 3 courses and the last 3 courses also. Wind can get under the bottom courses if the tile sets above the gutters and the top courses are the first to go in a big wind. Also nail the first three tiles from the edge for the same reason.
Wind is the biggest problem. If the top course blows off it will start pealing off like flipping a deck of cards. The middle courses never have a problem unless the top bottom or sides go first. So every other is ok there.

 

[Zogman]

Thanks folks. Much appreciated

 

[Zogman]

Another question guys. In laying out the battens and creating my gauge, when I lay the first row tile down, the front tip of the tile lays on the roof and an angle is created. The second row (and the following rows) of tiles sit on the batten in the back and onto the first row on the front. Problem is the angle of the first row tile has a different pitch than every row after that because the tip of the tile is not supported. I've look at a bunch of publications and videos and nowhere does it show that I put battens on the front of the first row of tiles to lift up the tips. I can't see putting battens there because the battens are 4' long and are spaced out with 1/2" gaps. That just screams bugs getting in.

I am using flat tiles.

Sorry if this might be confusing but any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Iron-Iceberg]

You can get eve riser which is a T or L shaped metal that will lift it up to the proper height. Or put down one course of batts spaced about an inch apart and then run another course of batts solid on top of the first course. That will get you to the right height.
The bottom course has to be spaced to let water or condensation out. Don't worry about bugs. They will get in anyhow. You just don't want any holes big enough for birds to nest.
On Spanish tiles eve riser is called bird stop for a reason.