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Concrete sealer instead of coating?

71dsp

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Jan 26, 2006
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DFW Texas
I'm looking for something to keep the concrete floor in my garage from dusting, staining, and just to keep it looking good. Right now, it looks fairly crappy with oil, brake fluid, and coolant stains. :sad:

I have considered epoxy coatings, but between the jack, jackstands, lathe, welding, and other stuff I do in the garage, I'm afraid the floor would look worse in two years than it does today!

After doing many months of research, I came across a company named Vseal. They appear to have almost exactly what I'm looking for, although I think their sealer doesn't change the appearance of the concrete. I love the look of an epoxy coating if it wouldn't get scratched!

http://www.vseal.com/Industra-seal/Industra-seal.php

The stuff is very cheap, which makes me a little leery, but the idea that the sealer chemically reacts with the concrete to densify the surface and prevent dusting and to seal the concrete against staining is very attractive to me. It sounds like it's not really a coating, but something that actually becomes part of the concrete so it wouldn't be affected by my welding (only TIG right now, so no worry of slag, but I want to get a MIG welder soon), dragging stuff around, car tires, etc.

Does anyone know anything else about this product?
 
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71dsp

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DFW Texas
I called the company the other day. I talked to a rep for a very long time. We discussed epoxy at length, but he recommended the Industra Seal 117 for me since I do a lot of work in the garage, and I'm not so concered with covering up the appearance of the existing concrete. He did mention that this product won't prevent me from doing epoxy in the future if I wanted, just apply the epoxy as you normally would!

I told him I wanted two 5 gallon buckets, but he refused. He said that one 5 gallon bucket would be plenty for a 950 square ft garage without the need for an additional application. I was surprised that he didn't want to take more of my money! ;) I did buy some of the HD cleaner though. I'll clean and scrub the concrete the weekend before, then apply the sealer the weekend after when it's dry.

One thing worth noting is that this is not a coating, it reacts with the concrete to make it more dense to prevent dusting and to make it more resistant to stains (it will still stain if the oil or whatnot is left for long periods of time). I'll let you guys know how it comes out, but I won't be applying it for a few weeks. I have a track event to prepare for, and I'm going to wait until it gets a little warmer out. I'll be sure to take some before and after pictures.
 
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71dsp

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Jan 26, 2006
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DFW Texas
snorvet said:
dont know about that product, but I'm thinking about using

http://www.hc-concrete.com/product/3011.asp with the clear sealer as the final coats

H&C are products from Sherwin Williams

I just don't want to mess with scratching, peeling, or lifting. That's why I'm staying away from coatings right now. That stuff looks good, though. I thought about trying to acid stain the concrete before I apply this sealer, but I decided against it. I actually like the look of the concrete when it's clean.
 

archie440

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Jan 10, 2006
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Location
Indiana
floor sealer

one and a half years ago I used a product made by rust. I bought it at Grangers.It was a two part epoxy. After doing some black spray painting,everywhere that the floor was exposed it stayed black.I tried several things to get it up but to no avail. I am now in the process of using a stripper to get it up,acid etich, then put on Sherwin Williams 2 part epoxy. Other then paint oil,and whatever else wiped up.The floor will turn a light brown in color. All imperfections will be magnified. (swirls and cracks)
 

914forme

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106
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North of Dayton, Ohio
My parking garage floor was sealed 15 years ago, still holding up very well. Can't remember the company I got it from but Vseal sounds about right. It was cheap way back when, cleans easily, and works well.

In my shop I went with light gray epoxy, easy to find dropped stuff and reflects light a little better. But the sealer worked for the last 15 years with out a problem. I have a VW TDI that likes to leave its spots marked and a couple of Porsche 914s that also like to mark there territory.

Post pictures latter.
 

mark's_c5tt

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Mar 23, 2006
Messages
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Location
South FL
71dsp said:
I just don't want to mess with scratching, peeling, or lifting. That's why I'm staying away from coatings right now. That stuff looks good, though. I thought about trying to acid stain the concrete before I apply this sealer, but I decided against it. I actually like the look of the concrete when it's clean.

But is this a color? I'm getting a mid rise lift because i track my car and do lots of work on it. Most of my garage floor plan will be black/white tile or something simlar but there will be an 8 x 6 area for my miderise lift and that needs to be a flat concrete surface. I'd like to make it medium gray but the lift will probably leave some marks so I dont wnat to get fancy with expensive coating. Maybe a stain would work though. Sorry for te small pic but I'm sure you get the idea.

452329_284_full.jpg
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Densifier is great.

What it will do:
Control dusting
Harden the surface (1/8")
Resistant to freeze-thaw issues
Resistant to water abrasion

What it won't do:
Make your floor look good (unless you grind/polish the floor)


We have the very best densifier with free shipping to 48 states.

Call me if you want more info... 973-885-1082
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/index.php
 

LegacyIndustrial

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i found the most cost effective densifiers and stain repellent sealers for concrete garage floors at http://www.garage-sealer.com/products.php

Mparry:

Two things.
Prices are not the least expensive.
This fella is WAY overselling the benefits of a densifier.

It is a good product for hardening the floor and stopping dusting. Select formulas will even slow water transmission and make spills easier to clean up.
That is about the extent of it.

Come clean, is this your brother's company or even your own?
 

reflexdb

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Dec 4, 2011
Messages
8
Location
Denver, CO
Scotty, how does the HD-6415 Gloss Sealer hold up against brake fluid, engine oil, coolant, etc? I'm looking for a product to seal up a brand new concrete garage floor. I wouldn't mind a nice glossy shine either.

Thanks.
Greg
 

waxoffwaxon

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Mar 12, 2012
Messages
7
Location
fort myers, florida
I use densifiers all the time. They help with sealing, keep down dusting and resist stains, ect. I have done floors that get better looking every year. I have seen floor 40 years old that look like they are waxed, and it just the chemical.

Densifiying a floor is about the best thing you can do. I use euclid, euclid chemical company.

clint

www.waxoffwaxon.com
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Scotty, how does the HD-6415 Gloss Sealer hold up against brake fluid, engine oil, coolant, etc? I'm looking for a product to seal up a brand new concrete garage floor. I wouldn't mind a nice glossy shine either.

Thanks.
Greg

Greg:

Good for oil and coolant. Not good for brake fluid.
A step up would be our Standard Sealer or Standard Sealer with a topcoat of HD356VOC. Much better gloss, much better chemical resistance.
 

CamarosRus

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Renton, WA (Seattle)
Scotty, If I go with Standard Sealer or Standard Sealer with a topcoat of HD356VOC, what are my choices to prep my never treated floor......list best prep along versus highest costs of prep.

Also what kind of inside shop temps does one need

Do I need to clear entire floor surface or can I do 1/2 at one time w/o showing a "line" between the two halves ???

Thanks for the education
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Scotty, If I go with Standard Sealer or Standard Sealer with a topcoat of HD356VOC, what are my choices to prep my never treated floor......list best prep along versus highest costs of prep.

Also what kind of inside shop temps does one need

Do I need to clear entire floor surface or can I do 1/2 at one time w/o showing a "line" between the two halves ???

Thanks for the education

Chuck, sorry to cut you off today. Phone is ringing off the hook as Spring is really taking hold across our Southern states.

Also... thank you for your service. My father and father in-law also served in VietNam, Army and Marines. We have a soft-spot for all former military at Legacy Industrial.

Lastly, from what you told me I doubt you have a vapor barrier installed and the HD-36 densifier will end the efflorescence you are experiencing.

If you still want a gloss look you can roller apply the HD6415 or spray apply a coat or two of our Easy Sealer. These two products will allow the moisture to flow through without causing issues.

Hope this helps.
 
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reflexdb

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Denver, CO
Scotty, what would you recommend for the highest resistance to brake fluid? I've taken a look at the Tech Spec sheets on your site, but it doesn't show resistance to brake fluid - only to gasoline.

How about a Densifier, then a top coat of HD356VOC?
 

CamarosRus

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Scotty, Thanks for ALL the phone time I've "bothered" you with. I wont be calling again as I'm afraid I'm exceeded my limit.

I'm having trouble excepting that pressure washing alone is enough prep for my 5 year old floor with the efflorescence you spoke of above.

I'm justing wanting the best bang for the buck results and thinking "diamond" grinding would acheive the cosmetic look and adhesion I'm striving for

Talking with Seattle area contractors to do this entire operation or maaybe just the grinding. Seems these contractors dont know the LEGACY products and dont believe the HD36 will hold back the PSI/pressure of the ground water ????

Would the HD 37 (cost a bit more) be of any benefit or wasting my money.

Thanks for the education
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Chuck:

Diamond grinding is the way I would direct you if you were going to install epoxy. Densifier soaks into the floor and becomes part of the concrete and the sealer is a single part acrylic. Did you do a water test? What happens when you spill some tap water on the slab? Does it soak in well or bead up? If it soaks in, the densifier will do the same. If does not you can probably fix it with some power-trowel prep material we have, provided you don't already have a sealer down.

If you diamond grind the floor you will likely have heavy swirl marks that will look horrible with a thin acrylic sealer. We spoke about this... This is why I mentioned polishing may be what you really are after.

I think these two products will not exceed your expectation level and you may want to think about your options again.

Also, you can talk to an installer about a membrane system that may give you moisture control so that can you can epoxy the floor as that is what I think you really want.

Lastly, our operation is based on the East coast, I wouldn't expect a West coast installer to know us. Although, that is our ambition.

Hope this sets you in the right direction and you can call me again if you need help.
Have a great weekend.
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Scotty, what would you recommend for the highest resistance to brake fluid? I've taken a look at the Tech Spec sheets on your site, but it doesn't show resistance to brake fluid - only to gasoline.

How about a Densifier, then a top coat of HD356VOC?

Reflex:
HD356VOC has no problem with brake fluid. Gasoline is worse for a urethane.
Skip the densifier as the coating will become your sacrificial layer.

Apply one or two coats Standard Sealer, and one topcoat HD356VOC.
This will give you the same look as RTcat's floor (on our web-site).
 
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WinThePennant

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Nov 18, 2011
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I've always heard that you should strip the floor down to the bare concrete before applying epoxy. Others more expert than me probably disagree.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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If you have an epoxy sealer or system and it is down tight, you can prime with a high solids primer and apply 100% solids coating on top.

Our installers do this regularly.


Of course, it needs to be sanded and solvent wiped ahead of this.
 

thegarageguy

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NJ
Hey FX, which pics in your extensive gallery are actually yours? With 100 decorative concrete floors per year (according to your website) why is it you feel the need to use my and DCS's job pics? Again, REMOVE MY WORK FROM YOUR SITE!
 

KPSquared

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Well, that pretty much takes a huge dump on this companies credibility. That *****. . .they're Canadian. . .

I'll make sure to tell my friends out in Ontario to avoid Concrete Art-FX Inc. at all costs. Not worth dealing with a company that operates like that. Garbage. . .
 

thegarageguy

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So far Concrete Art FX has not acknowledged the fact that he is stealing my images (among others) and falsely advertising my work as his. He has my work in his "gallery", on his "polysaprtic page", "metallic floors page" and "epoxy floors page". All he is missing is a pic of me actually installing. SO here you go (that's me in the gray shirt);

P1000989.jpg


Tomorrow my phone call will not be so nice. My next step will be to expose this fraud nationally via blog post

ConcreteArtFXFraud3.png


Save yourself further embarrassment and remove my pics Concrete Hack FX
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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FX:

Sealer is a vague term. It generally means a clear coating. That coating could be clear epoxy with clear urethane over top or (2) coats of polyaspartic!
 
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dcs Inc

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Indianapolis, Indiana
I'm trying to give the guy a break. If he's an Elite Crete installer he can use my photos as long as he is promoting EC. What I see on his website is confusing and seems to be pushing several products. If that's the case then I want them removed. I have a lot of my photos on the Elite Crete main website. I find my pics all over the place promoting another product line.....not cool. I tend to get a little snarly and when the guy finally figures out it's costing him more bad publicity than good, off they go. gene
 

ConcreteExpert

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Jan 29, 2013
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There are a few options. First, you don't want to use a coating alone. The most popular coating for a garage floor is an epoxy, simply because of how strong epoxies are. While epoxies will protect the surface, they don't protect the concrete below the surface. Over time, especially with exposure to water, the concrete will start to deteriorate and the epoxy will start to peel, bubble, and flake. If you want to use an epoxy, make sure you first apply a penetrating concrete sealer. This will help to waterproof and strengthen the concrete, while at the same time helping to increase the life of the coating.

Another popular method is appying a lithium silicate sealer, which penetrates the concrete, and running over the surface with diamond grit pads (usually using a floor scrubber). You can start with a 100-grit pad and work your way up to a 500+-grit pad). This will solidify the concrete on a surface level, causing liquids and chemicals to sit on the surface. If you like the look of Home Depot floors, or want a mirror-like finish, this may be the way to go.

Just make sure you absolutely avoid using other types of coatings like acrylics, latexes, concrete paints, etc. They don't last, discolor, and will bubble and flake within a year.
 
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