Concrete sealer

[ForceFed70]

So after much debate, I have decided to just seal the concrete in my garage.

I love the look of epoxy and the other solutions but it's too much time and money. Plus I expect this to be more of a functional shop area than a nice clean place to hang out.

Does anyone have any tips for what I should or shouldn't do in the process? The slab was poured approx 6 months ago. Any certain products I should or shouldn't use?

Was planning to just run down to home depot, but figured I would check here 1st.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Penetrative or Topical?
Solvent or water based?
Prep or no prep?
Cheap or spend a little?

Many choices here...

 

[ForceFed70]

Hadn't given it a lot of thought.

My main goal is to prevent oil stains and to make cleanup easier.

I think a penetrative would work best but IDK.

Don't really care if it's water vs solvent. Whichever works best

I'm not afraid to spend a little, but cost is a large part of the reason why I decided against epoxy. I'm willing to spend up to $500 to cover 1300sqft.

It's new concrete that I paid extra for a nice power trowell finish. I don't want to etch or grind. But I can certainly pressure wash, etc.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I just bought Legacy's densifier and sealer for my floor that will be put down if it ever warms up. My floor is 32x52, was poured last week and, with 400 sf/gallon coverage, I bought a 5 gallon bucket of their HD-7939 for $157.00 and should still have some left over (I will use all of it though).

That product is a lithium based densifier that penetrates into the concrete and increases the hardness as well as sealing the surface. For my shop, it seemed the best all around solution for welding, torches, grinding, etc. Couldn't beat the price either with free shipping....

 

[jonese]

I just bought Legacy's densifier and sealer for my floor that will be put down if it ever warms up. My floor is 32x52, was poured last week and, with 400 sf/gallon coverage, I bought a 5 gallon bucket of their HD-7939 for $157.00 and should still have some left over (I will use all of it though).

That product is a lithium based densifier that penetrates into the concrete and increases the hardness as well as sealing the surface. For my shop, it seemed the best all around solution for welding, torches, grinding, etc. Couldn't beat the price either with free shipping....

What does that stuff look like when finished? Is it colorless or what? Sounds like a great option. I've got 1440sf I want to cover with something but like the original poster I can't justify the cost of epoxy. Nor do I want to risk it if it doesn't adhere properly and starts coming up.

 

[BikerBluesVTwin]

How is the HD-7939 applied. Is it burnished into the floor with a buffer and at what RPM.
I'm leaning the same way. Just had my lift installed and ready to finish the floor.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

It does not change the surface appearance, it penetrates the surface.
Stops dusting, improves abrasion resistance and this particular blend (HD7939)creates a barrier for water moving in either direction.
It can be sprayed, mopped or rolled.

 

[dcs Inc]

A densifier itself wont stop stains or any acidics. They do help on dusting. gene ec-Indy

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

A densifier itself wont stop stains or any acidics. They do help on dusting. gene ec-Indy

7939 is a densifier AND a sealer. They have densifiers only but I went with one that also has a sealer additive. It will not be as effective as a true sealer but I think it will slow most liquid spills. For me, I can live with a few stains but I would be pissed off after welding, torching or plasma cutting over a nice (read expensive) epoxy floor to find out that I had burnt it.

I'm not out for pretty, I'm needing something tough with cost effective performance.

 

[SWT Racing]

I just bought Legacy's densifier and sealer for my floor that will be put down if it ever warms up. My floor is 32x52, was poured last week and, with 400 sf/gallon coverage, I bought a 5 gallon bucket of their HD-7939 for $157.00 and should still have some left over (I will use all of it though).

That product is a lithium based densifier that penetrates into the concrete and increases the hardness as well as sealing the surface. For my shop, it seemed the best all around solution for welding, torches, grinding, etc. Couldn't beat the price either with free shipping....

I am considering the same, for much the same reason, after some input from Scotty at Legacy in a thread I posted.

Scotty also mentioned the HD-6414 sealer that would have some sheen to it. At first I did not think that would be something I would want, but I visited a friend's garage that had some sheen/gloss to the concrete and it looked quite nice. Unfortunately, he did not know what the previous homeowner put down.

 

[dcs Inc]

7939 is a densifier AND a sealer. They have densifiers only but I went with one that also has a sealer additive. It will not be as effective as a true sealer but I think it will slow most liquid spills. For me, I can live with a few stains but I would be pissed off after welding, torching or plasma cutting over a nice (read expensive) epoxy floor to find out that I had burnt it.

I'm not out for pretty, I'm needing something tough with cost effective performance.

Then you definitely need a penetrating product. The problem becomes if the slab is open enough to allow it to soak in. Most garage floors I've seen and have installed have a machined finish and the surface is dense. gene ec-Indy

 

[Azzurro]

ForceFed70, go with a high quality lithium based densifier/sealer. Try giving Universal Concrete a try (www.universal-concrete.com); Burnaby or Langley.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

ForceFed70, go with a high quality lithium based densifier/sealer. .

Good point. Our products are all lithium based.

 

[RTcat]

Good point. Our products are all lithium based.

Scotty,

Which of your products, 7939 or 6414, would be better for each of these scenarios if applied to 60 day cured new concrete:

Sweeping up sawdust?

Resisiting a stain after oil drips on the surface for 24 hours before being noticed?

Resisiting a stain after gas drips on the surface for 24 hours before being noticed?

Also, do either of these products need to be re-applied periodically? Does either one have any maintanace associated with it?

 

[BTC]

I just moved into a house I had built, and I would like to do something to my garage floor as well, such as sealing it. I spoke to the guy that poured the floor and he said sealers would make the floor very slick. Any truth to that? I live in Michigan. Is there a preferred time of year, or temperature range to do this kind of thing? It's starting to get cold here. My garage floor was probably poured 5-6 months ago, and perhaps a month or two longer. Would that present any issues?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Scotty,

Which of your products, 7939 or 6414, would be better for each of these scenarios if applied to 60 day cured new concrete:

Sweeping up sawdust?

Resisiting a stain after oil drips on the surface for 24 hours before being noticed?

Resisiting a stain after gas drips on the surface for 24 hours before being noticed?

Also, do either of these products need to be re-applied periodically? Does either one have any maintanace associated with it?

Sweeping Sawdust: HD6414or HD7939
Oil Drips: HD 6414 (two thin coats)
Gasoline: HD015 (one coat) with a topcoat of HD-356VOC (one thin coat).
or...
Gasoline: HD-344 (one or two thin coats)

In a garage setting, depending on traffic, the HD6414 may have to be reapplied every 5 or 6 years, light sanding and one thin coat.

The other sealers will be good for a real long time (HD344 and HD-356VOC), your kids will inherit a good looking floor.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I just moved into a house I had built, and I would like to do something to my garage floor as well, such as sealing it. I spoke to the guy that poured the floor and he said sealers would make the floor very slick. Any truth to that? I live in Michigan. Is there a preferred time of year, or temperature range to do this kind of thing? It's starting to get cold here. My garage floor was probably poured 5-6 months ago, and perhaps a month or two longer. Would that present any issues?

If you choose a penetrative sealer like our HD-7939 densifier, the traction will not change.

Even our HD6414 will not change the floor too much as you are only applying a few mils of product.

You can still apply if you don't delay, once you get below 50 during the day, its time to hang it up.

Hope this helps.

 

[BTC]

If you choose a penetrative sealer like our HD-7939 densifier, the traction will not change.

Even our HD6414 will not change the floor too much as you are only applying a few mils of product.

You can still apply if you don't delay, once you get below 50 during the day, its time to hang it up.

Hope this helps.

Thanks. I'm assuming it would be ok to just wait until next year? The floor might be a bit nasty after a winter up here, but I do have two center drains.

 

[joes169]

I hate to step on any toes and distinguish a members sale here, but just about any local concrete ready/mix supplier is going to stock & sell a solvent-based siloxane sealer that will work extremely well for a penetrating sealer that repels stains, doesn't affect traction, and doesn't need to be re-applied for 5-10 years.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Don't worry Joe you didn't distinguish anything.

 

[macdabs]

I used a product called CS309 that the PA dot uses on highways, sweeps fine and dry time is 24 hours. They claim it is a excellent sealer foe new concrete. I know oil wipes off easy on my floor.. You can pick it up at any industrial supply house.


Mac

 

[knagy389us]

Aha! I was in the same situation and wanted the same protection you described, . Epoxy looks awesome, but I feel I just dont have the patience to do it right. So I saw another forum member here used H&C tintable concrete sealer. It's solvent based, can be flaked and cleared also. Got it from Sherwin Williams.

After only the first coat it looks great (sorry no pix) I'm doing the 2nd coat tonite or tomorrow. What I liked about it was it "re-wets" so it bonds to the prior coat. Also if you damage a section, you can always redo it.

I'm not doing any flakes.

Looking for the protection and uniformity.

 

[joes169]

Don't worry Joe you didn't distinguish anything.

Ooooops, I meant "extinguish".........

 

[mikec35]

Scotty,
Any issues with the products you described below as far as applying epoxy down the road? How do you remove the sealer? Thanks..

Sweeping Sawdust: HD6414or HD7939
Oil Drips: HD 6414 (two thin coats)
Gasoline: HD015 (one coat) with a topcoat of HD-356VOC (one thin coat).
or...
Gasoline: HD-344 (one or two thin coats)

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

The acrylic sealer could be stripped, the other products need to be ground off. You'll need to grind anyway, once a floor has been sealed/coated etching is out.

 

[chickey]

Great stuff, I've learned a lot reading through all these threads. I have a 12 year old house with a basement that is 2/3 unfinished. I'd like to seal the concrete to eliminate the dusting and resultant footprints that occur when folks travel between the unfinished and finished sections. I originally was looking at a simple acrylic sealer, but after reading here and elsewhere, I am attracted to the notion of a silicate-based penetrating sealer, as it may also help reduce humidity emanating from the slab. We have plans to eventually finish the remainder of the basement, so no need for anything glossy or pretty. Can anyone suggest what product might best serve my needs? Thanks to Google, the options are overwhelming, and I'm just a simple DIY'er in need of an effective and economical solution.

Thanks in advance,
Colin

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Our HD-7939 does exactly what you described.
Link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/densifier-and-waterproofer-5-gal-p-118.html

 

[chickey]

Good info, Scotty, much appreciated. Your website, data sheets and blog make for good reading. Quick (dumb) question - would an application of HD-7939 knock down the dusting enough so that we're no longer tracking footprints between the unfinished and finished sections of our basement, or would we still need to apply a topical coating like your HD-415 sealer?

Thanks again!
Colin

 

[KyleQ]

What would you recommend for a shop that sees welding, torch cutting, fabrication along with leaking fluids (motor oil, ATF, Gear lube). Redneck work shop

 

[SteelHorseHD]

Scotty,
I also need to seal my floor. My question is: the concrete has been poured for about two years. there have been a few oil spills, gasoline etc. over that time period. I plan on diamond grinding the whole area because of a poor finish but would I have to etch the floor as well due to the oil spills? Thanks!

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Acid will have no effect on oil spills. You would need to treat with a degreaser, solvent or citrus based. There are a few tricks out there including kitty litter and laundry detergent.

Densifiers will not block stains. If you want to block stains you need a topical sealer.
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/concrete-sealers-c-42.html

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Scotty,
I also need to seal my floor. My question is: the concrete has been poured for about two years. there have been a few oil spills, gasoline etc. over that time period. I plan on diamond grinding the whole area because of a poor finish but would I have to etch the floor as well due to the oil spills? Thanks!

Our HD-015 is a great low gloss sealer with resistance to oils and hot tire issues.
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/epoxy-sealer-hd015-2-gal-p-235.html

Popular with many retailers, Macaroni Grill, Old Navy, Bass Pro, to name a few.

 

[SteelHorseHD]

Our HD-015 is a great low gloss sealer with resistance to oils and hot tire issues.
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/epoxy-sealer-hd015-2-gal-p-235.html

Popular with many retailers, Macaroni Grill, Old Navy, Bass Pro, to name a few.

Okay thanks! So do would I need to do any kind of surface preperation before applying this? I have wiped up the oil spills and they aren't really visible I just didn't know if the sealer would stick to these areas. Thanks!

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Wipe liberally with xylene. Check after.
If the water is beading our product will not lock, nothing will.


If it doesn't pass the water test you are risking delamination.

 

[KyleQ]

Our HD-015 is a great low gloss sealer with resistance to oils and hot tire issues.
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/epoxy-sealer-hd015-2-gal-p-235.html

Popular with many retailers, Macaroni Grill, Old Navy, Bass Pro, to name a few.

So this product would work well to resist oil stains - what about sparks and hot metal? Will it chew up the product?

I will be covering ~600sqtf - if I damage an area, can I clean it and re-apply without it sticking out?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

It will resist oil stains. Sparks ok, slag will damage it like any coating. If you damage an area it is easily repaired.