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concrete sealer ?

tt69camaro

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May 26, 2008
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I just built a 3 car shop and was wondering if I should put a sealer on the floor. The floor was poured about 2 months ago but I would have to power wash it before I apply the sealer. What kind of sealer should I use?
Thanks
 
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Andy S

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I diamond grind, and apply 75% solids polyaspartic as a sealer all the time. Looks really good and bonds great.
 

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Gambitt

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I've done a lot of reading on here, but I am not an expert. I am in the same boat you are in. I just built a new 3 car detached garage and I have been agonizing over what type of coating to put on the floor. From what I read, a sealer is more of a temporary fix...it has to be re-sealed every few years for it to be good. There are water based sealers that will be destroyed when gas and harsh chemicals are spilled on them and there are apparently some sealers that are much better that are not water based. I don't what is best, but sealers appear to be a quick and cheap way to cover your concrete as long as you don't mind redoing it every so often. I think I am going to go the epoxy route.
 

Mlynch

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what gambit and andy are talking about are worlds apart... polyaspartic is lightyears ahead of a "water based sealer". The polyaspartic is difficult to get as a DIY application for now you are probably stuck with finding a profesional... you might also look into polished concrete.
 

WolverineCoatings

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We have 2 low end cheap sealers for those who want to go the 'cheap' route. First, depending on where you live you can purchase AcryliSeal 3401 which is a standard UV stable thermoplastic acrylic sealer. This is a solventbased (flammable) sealer that will give you that glossy wet look. You can put in on your garage floor or your driveway. It is one component so it has unlimited potlife when you leave the lid on. It dries in a couple of hours but should not be driven on for days... We sell thousands of gallons of this per month... most of it applied on walkways at amusement parks. This stuff is pretty cheap....

Then, we have a new product that is waterbased (AcryliSeal 3501). The product is not flammable and is the first waterbased nanopolymer coating that performs better than solventbased sealers. It is exterior durable and can also be used in direct sunlight or in your garage. This product is being commercialized this week after a couple of years of development and testing. We will be looking for some 'real world' testers in residential environments. The ideal canidates will have some knowledge of concrete sealers, a good looking 2-3 car garage/house, and maybe a good looking car or two. Don't expect that everyone is going to be a tester. We will be looking for 4-5 people max that live in different parts of the country. The price is going to be cheap... really cheap (probably UPS shipping costs)... but... there will be expectations! See Fred at AlphaGarage... We'll be looking in the following areas:
Northeast
Florida
Los Angeles
NorthWest
Midwest
 

jcs_in_ky

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A couple of years ago I used some concrete sealer per the recommendation of a local concrete guy. He recommended buying the Black Bull sealer from Lowes. Home Depot sells a Brand called Eagle and I believe it's the same thing. Anyway this turned out to be a very bad choice. I put a coat down and it looked great. Then I came back a short while later and it looked like I hadn't put anything on it. It ended up taking about four coats or so to get a good looking finish without the concrete soaking it all up. It looked good for a while but isn't durable at all. After a couple of years now it's mostly gone. I'm going to strip the rest soon and go with some type of epoxy most likely.
 
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tt69camaro

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Should concrete be sealed? I was assuming it should. Would epoxy be a better way to go? I will be working on cars in the shop and will get gas/oil/grease on the floor on occation.
 

Andy S

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Wow, listen to Wolverine. Obviously he knows whats going on. Nanopolymer? Explain Eric?

Anything from Lowes or Home Depot... those are not really professional products... just consumer. If you put a coating on your floor that has good bond, you can always sand and recoat when it starts going south. If you put a sealer down, and decide to eventually put a coating down, it might not work depending on the sealer. I would say a coating is the way to go, or polishing would be nice too. But then again, theres no going back, and its more expensive than two coats of epoxy. :headscrat
 

Mlynch

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thats cool... i was told water based stuff would eventually out perform the solvent based stuff. I have yet to see it but welcome the technology if it ever comes.

What kind of solvent based product did it outperform? In what ways did it outperform the solvent based stuff? does this acrylic actually outperform a polyaspartic or epoxy and in what ways?

I have had really bad experience with acrylic sealers being pretty soft... I have however seen that premeir garage and a few other garage floors (i think marbelite) use some sort of hybrid acrylic as a top coating that seems to be pretty resilient.

I guess i would be remiss in bringing up that i have a two car garage in Florida i would volunteer for torture testing cool new products. I have some knowledge of concrete sealer instalation... I cant help with the fancy car though i would have to find a friend.

nanopolymer is that the addition of extremely small particles (under 100 nanometers) added to a formulation to increase its durability... like adding ceramic to epoxy? or is that when the diameter of the polymer particle is under 100 nm?

I tried reading about nanopolymer but the definitions/process werent exactly uniform.
 
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JMURiz

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I was thinking about putting on some H&C Clear 23...I'm a newbie at this stuff, is this a type of sealer you were asking about?

If it's a P.O.S. I'd like to know and would be interested to hear more about the Wolverine water-based product coming out.

I want to go with a sealer rather than epoxy due to my need to turn the car around in the garage and possibility of welding.

Thanks for helping a newbie understand these products better!
 
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tt69camaro

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Wolverine Coatings, How could I pass up your offer of a new product demo. I have a 40 x 32 shop, a 32 x 14 pad on the side and a 40 x 25 pad in the front that I would like to do. If this works well I will also want to do the 24 x 24 attached garage and 24 x 25 front pad and front porch and rear patio as well. I live in NW Tennessee where the weather is HOT. I have a couple of cool cars in the Shop. A twin turbo 69 Camaro and a 70 SS Chevelle 454. All my concrete is new and unmolested. Can you help me quickly?
Thanks, Chris
 

Mlynch

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Awesome camaro sounds like you are going to get one heck of a deal!

I am still curious about these questions too lets not pass them over...
What kind of solvent based product did it outperform? In what ways did it outperform the solvent based stuff? does this acrylic actually outperform a polyaspartic or epoxy and in what ways?
 

WolverineCoatings

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I better expound here...

I read the first post like this was a driveway that needed to be sealed.

From what I read, a sealer is more of a temporary fix...it has to be re-sealed every few years for it to be good. There are water based sealers that will be destroyed when gas and harsh chemicals are spilled on them and there are apparently some sealers that are much better that are not water based. I don't what is best, but sealers appear to be a quick and cheap way to cover your concrete as long as you don't mind redoing it every so often. I think I am going to go the epoxy route.

Gambit is exactly right. Epoxy is more chemical resistant and more expensive. And, until recently... the chemical resistance of sealers have been very low.

The AcryliSeal 3401 and 3501 are cheap... cheap... cheap... acrylic sealers. These products are a fraction of the cost of quality epoxies, polyaspartics, urethanes, polysiloxanes, or fluoropolymers. These products are for people who are looking to cheaply seal concrete whether indoors or out. They are exterrior durable. We sell thousands of gallons a month into Florida alone under various brand names... The sun is brutal there.

Obviously, if you want the best performance we have other products for that and they're going to be more expensive.

We've tested the 3501 against just about every major 1K solvent based concrete sealer. The object of the project was to replace 1K solvent based sealers for use over decorative concrete, stone, and other masonry products. It is more flexible and harder at the same time. More importantly, it can be applied on damp concrete without blushing which is a common defect seen in acrylic sealers. Neither solvent based or water based products have had that capability. Although it has an acrylic component... obviously it is a hybrid.

He recommended buying the Black Bull sealer from Lowes. Home Depot sells a Brand called Eagle and I believe it's the same thing.
You would be surprised at how many companies sell the EXACT same thing. In fact, we make thousands of gallons per month of the same product that gets our label as well as many other companies labels. If you've done much concrete sealing you've probably used product made by us... especially in Florida.

Anyway this turned out to be a very bad choice. I put a coat down and it looked great. Then I came back a short while later and it looked like I hadn't put anything on it. It ended up taking about four coats or so to get a good looking finish without the concrete soaking it all up. It looked good for a while but isn't durable at all. After a couple of years now it's mostly gone. I'm going to strip the rest soon and go with some type of epoxy most likely.
Acrylic sealers are dependant on the porosity of your concrete. Since you are trying to fill the pores, the more (or bigger) your pores are the more coats you are going to need to fill them. And, the reason to use acrylic is the minimal prep and low cost. Most people would rather take a couple of hours to reseal every couple of years than spend the time and money to do the job with quality materials. I'm of the breed that you buy the best quality product you can find and do it just once. But, to each his own...

Wow, listen to Wolverine. Obviously he knows whats going on. Nanopolymer? Explain Eric?

Anything from Lowes or Home Depot... those are not really professional products... just consumer. If you put a coating on your floor that has good bond, you can always sand and recoat when it starts going south. If you put a sealer down, and decide to eventually put a coating down, it might not work depending on the sealer. I would say a coating is the way to go, or polishing would be nice too. But then again, theres no going back, and its more expensive than two coats of epoxy.
You're too kind... lol... With this new technology we believe that we are going to majorly increase durability and we already know that the adhesion is light years ahead. We've been involved in nanotechnolgy for years and this is the natural next step.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I was thinking about putting on some H&C Clear 23...I'm a newbie at this stuff, is this a type of sealer you were asking about?

If it's a P.O.S. I'd like to know and would be interested to hear more about the Wolverine water-based product coming out.

I want to go with a sealer rather than epoxy due to my need to turn the car around in the garage and possibility of welding.

Thanks for helping a newbie understand these products better!
A newbie... you've got 688 posts dude... lol... Anyway, no problem. H & C is a pretty decent company. The 23 is an Silicone Acrylic that is solventbased. In general, solventbases silicone acrylics have good UV stability and would be better than just a standard acrylic and of course, more expensive depending on the solids. The only issue people have is recoatability. But, it can be recoated and would probably be just fine.

We are already back-ordered on the new product (the 3501) and are not looking to get a bunch of sales on here right now for that. Unless you fit the profile for what we listed above for test areas it will be awhile before we are going to sell this to the DIY market.

I want to go with a sealer rather than epoxy due to my need to turn the car around in the garage and possibility of welding.
I would be curious to know what you mean by this. A good quality epoxy will be much more durable than any sealer. And... of course... more expensive...

Wolverine Coatings, How could I pass up your offer of a new product demo. I have a 40 x 32 shop, a 32 x 14 pad on the side and a 40 x 25 pad in the front that I would like to do. If this works well I will also want to do the 24 x 24 attached garage and 24 x 25 front pad and front porch and rear patio as well. I live in NW Tennessee where the weather is HOT. I have a couple of cool cars in the Shop. A twin turbo 69 Camaro and a 70 SS Chevelle 454. All my concrete is new and unmolested. Can you help me quickly?
Thanks, Chris
No problem... I am going to ask that you work with Fred so he can route this through the propper channels. How far are you from Nashville? It would be cool if I would could work a visit into a trip there. Anyway, PM Fred (AlphaGarage) and he'll give you some instructions. We're going to want pics of the garage and the cars. I would expect shipping to be really cheap to NW TN.

Fred: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/member.php?u=22680
 
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tt69camaro

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Very informative post! I would like to apply the best option you have so I don't have to keep reapplying products every year. I'm with you, do it once and be done.

I am about 3 hours from Nashville and 2 hours from Memphis. Very NW corner of TN. I sent Fred an email last night with my information. I look forward to hearing back from him. Thanks for all your help.
Chris
 

JMURiz

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A newbie... you've got 688 posts dude... lol... Anyway, no problem. H & C is a pretty decent company. The 23 is an Silicone Acrylic that is solventbased. In general, solventbases silicone acrylics have good UV stability and would be better than just a standard acrylic and of course, more expensive depending on the solids. The only issue people have is recoatability. But, it can be recoated and would probably be just fine.

We are already back-ordered on the new product (the 3501) and are not looking to get a bunch of sales on here right now for that. Unless you fit the profile for what we listed above for test areas it will be awhile before we are going to sell this to the DIY market.


I would be curious to know what you mean by this. A good quality epoxy will be much more durable than any sealer. And... of course... more expensive...

I'd be interested in a trial (might be a reason to finish up my garage interior). Not sure I can compete with the wild cars and garages some have here, mine's a 22x24 garage with a '74 Mercedes and a '73 914 in it, along with a couple motorcycles. I'm in DC so that'd be about the same data as yy69camaro's location.

About the sealer/epoxy, my garage is in a rather tight area so I need to do numerous turns to get straight into the right-side bay...just figured a sealer would soak into the concrete and not have a tendency to peel or lift. I may be wrong though. I just want something that'll keep the dust down and have a nice sheen (I LOVE the look of polished concrete but that's not in the budget).
 

menz300

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Mar 23, 2008
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Is the new 3501 product that is suppose to be better than solvent based a cheap cheap sealer? I am confused as one post you say it is a new water based product that is as good as solvent based and then this post says its a cheap product. I am just confused as prefer to use water based sealer as there is a big push in residential market for "green" building and have a patio I am acid staining next week and was curious of price of the sealer to purchase and coverage rates if its not to much trouble but if its a cheap cheap sealer then I guess will go back to using the Superstone or Scofield products.
 

moogoob

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Toms River NJ
cheap cheap cheap in price and performance compared to high end epoxy, b ut still better than other sealers... if i read it right.
 

WolverineCoatings

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"Sealers" typically are thought of as one component film forming materials. Epoxies are 2 component and are classified as epoxies... or... coatings.

We are comparing the performance to solventborne acrylic sealers. These types of sealers have been the standard for sealing concrete for decades. If you compare the Superstone Solventbased Acrylic Sealer to our AcryliSeal 3401 I think you'll find that they are identical. The new waterbased AcryliSeal 3501 will outperform it.

We won't be able to sell you the 3501 in time for your job next week. You may have missed that we are only looking for a few garage test areas right now for the purpose of marketing pictures. We already have plenty of pictures over decorative concrete since that is the market we developed this for.

cheap cheap cheap in price and performance compared to high end epoxy, b ut still better than other sealers... if i read it right.
You got it!
 

menz300

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I know sealers are a cheap alternative to epoxies but most epoxies are not UV stable. That is why I am looking for a good sealer for acid stain work on exterior projects. I wasn't worried about free sealer I just want to find a good product for my exterior acid stain jobs.Have used clear epoxy on interior stain jobs but need something UV stable.
 
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ddawg16

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Old thread bump....

I'm trying to decide which way to go as well....sealer or epoxy....

I will be pouring my new garage floor (20'x25') in about 2-3 weeks. It's a detached 2 car garage in the back of the house....except for working on the jeep or the wife parking her not so mini, mini-van in there, a majority of the garge use is woodworking. I'm afraid that an epoxy coating is not going to stand up well to the abuse I will give it with my wood working....and I really don't want a slippery surface because of the saw dust.....

What is your take on it?
 

premierguy

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This is actually an excellent scenario for the DIY'ers learning to fly high above the clouds of delusion...

I agree, Epoxies "by itself" is the next best ting to an ice rink with a Teflon coating.


You may want to consider premixing Quartz Aggregate (colors of choice) and hopper blow the aggregate (evenly) onto the concrete surface while it is still semi-wet. When it is time to Mechanically trowel the floor...Voila!!! Embedded colorants....

A 100% Clear Green Cement Coating product can be troweled over the existing quartz allowing just enough aggregate for good gripping action (If mechanical troweling was timed right).

You can also add Longevity to your floor and reduce health risks by spray misting or coating the floor with a microbial coating.


Just another idea to beautify your surroundings at Low, Low prices....
 

Dragster Racer

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I want to comment on the wood working shop. First, I'm probably not ever going to do epoxy due to the welding and even a tractor with chains on occation in my shop. Plus, at 40X40, it's just not in the budget.
However, my last job was with a very large cabinet company. This was a very high end, custom cabinet producer, and all of the floors were epoxy. That is the first thing anyone noticed as soon as the entered the plant. It held up very well, and made cleanup a breeze. There were some stains and solvents that were not great in the finish rooms, but the answer there was to put a tyvek type of sheet down, and then just dispose of the sheet when the time came. The floor was perfect under. Yes, there were scuffs here and there from sliding things across the floor. But it held up pretty well and really was a showplace. It was certainly the most square footage I have seen epoxied. In the shipping department, they would throw down sand for easy sliding of the boxed cabinets. The epoxy even held up well to that.
The only problem in the plant was at tranistions in the concrete. The building was built in stages, and where there was shifting, the epoxy was vulnerable to lifting. You can only expect so much from it.
 

lx4life

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Been searching for a while still cant make up my mind on what to use or buy locally that will hold up well in my garage which I use as a garage to park and work on cars.
 

Fastback

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Heck I just want something that I can put down on a new slab that got sprayed with Cure & Seal when it was poured? I just want to keep oil from staining the floor!
 

ddawg16

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Fastback.....fast forward....a 1.5 years ago I tossed a couple of gallons of Home Depot concrete sealer on the floor....last night I spilt some paint on it....wiped up....

It is doing what I wanted....for now....oil...paint, etc....if you spill them...they wipe up and don't leave a stain....but then again, I have not left it there for any period of time.

There is one downside...if I have sawdust on the floor....it can be slippery....very slippery. It's not nealy as bad now....but a year ago, I had to be careful....but then again, it was only bad if I was wearing my slippers. Regular shoes were not too slippery.

So...if your objective is like me...a temp solution to keep the floor clean...I think this is a good way to go.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Sealer is a very loose word.

Topical?
Penetrative?
High Sheen?
No Sheen?
Gas/Oil resistant?

They are typically thin, 3 mils or less. Therefore, you need to narrow down what you want the floor to look like and what type of spills you may have.
 

Fastback

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Sealer is a very loose word.

Topical?
Penetrative?
High Sheen?
No Sheen?
Gas/Oil resistant?

They are typically thin, 3 mils or less. Therefore, you need to narrow down what you want the floor to look like and what type of spills you may have.

I hate to hijack, sorry... But, I have a nice red floor with black marbling and I just want to prevent stains,it is a working shop floor with vintage Harleys that leak and an old mustang undergoing a rebuild that will involve paint over spray possibly getting on the floor etc... I am fine with re-applying every year or so and would like to use a roller to apply. I really dont want to mess with the $3 per SF options.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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I hate to hijack, sorry... But, I have a nice red floor with black marbling and I just want to prevent stains,it is a working shop floor with vintage Harleys that leak and an old mustang undergoing a rebuild that will involve paint over spray possibly getting on the floor etc... I am fine with re-applying every year or so and would like to use a roller to apply. I really dont want to mess with the $3 per SF options.

Is the red floor with black marbling painted, stained or pigmented?
 

DonIvey

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If I were to use the H&C 23 Clear sealer on a new garage floor (about three months old), would I need to use the etcher mentioned on the sealer directions on the can? If so, would Muratic acid do the trick, or must I buy something like the CreteLok? Thanks,

Don Ivey
Raleigh, NC
 

WTM Enterprises

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hello all we are new to the site, was just reading some of the posts and have to say that it depends of where you live and the clement for most coatings, epoxies or water based coatings/sealers etc. we have used some good products and willing to try others aslong as they can withstand the Canadian clement.

Not to put down any sealers or coatings but i found that it depends on the area of the world we live in. I have found that Epoxy ( nothing against it ) has its good points and bad, but have found that it works real good in Labs or interiors but doesn't stand up in a garage that well, because over time it will lose the shine and will be scratched up.

if interested i can send a contact number for anyone that is interested in haveing any of thier concrete coated or sealed
 

LegacyIndustrial

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I know sealers are a cheap alternative to epoxies but most epoxies are not UV stable. That is why I am looking for a good sealer for acid stain work on exterior projects. I wasn't worried about free sealer I just want to find a good product for my exterior acid stain jobs.Have used clear epoxy on interior stain jobs but need something UV stable.

I attached a photo that a customer just sent in.
He used our very best single component sealer, HD356VOC.
He left the area in the middle open as it was just repaired.
His only complaint is that his shoes are tracking dust across it!!
NM Photos 108.jpg

Here is the link for the product: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd356voc-urethane-sealer-5-gal-p-199.html
 
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