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Concrete sealer?

KenB

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Dec 8, 2008
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334
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Pittsburgh, PA
I'm trying to select a penetrating sealer (not a coating) for the floor of my new 1200 sf pole barn. There sure are a lot of products out there :eyecrazy: and it is difficult to choose. I'd welcome recommendations from the following short list, or other suggestions/cautions.

Enviroseal 40
Vseal has 3 products: 101, 102 V4 and Industra-Seal 117
Stone Technologies Concrete Sealer X-1
CS-1000 from the Epoxy Floor Guy on this forum

Thanks,
Ken
 
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WolverineCoatings

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Hi,

The technologies you list are completely different from each other.

You have:

1) A silane based water repellant
2) Potassium based (most likely a potassium silicate)
3) A stronger Potassium based (most likely a potassium silicate at higher concentration)
4) A cheap acrylic copolymer that is basically a high solids floor wax or a low solids coating... $49 is a really high price for this product...

If you want a non-film forming product then you will chose between 1,2, or 3. If you want a penetrating sealer then the closest thing on the list to this would be the silane based water repellant. #2 and #3 would be considered densifiers.
 
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KenB

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Wolverine,
Thanks for the detailed response. I'm leaning toward Vseal's Industra-seal, only because the product description matches exactly what I'd like the product to do (but doesn't necessarily mean that product is the best one).

[Industra-Seal 117] is an excellent call for hardening, dust proofing and sealing of concrete. It is the precise call for concrete floor applications where long term resistance to dusting, black rubber tire marks, abrasion, chemical and water resistance is important... Ideal applications include, but are not limited to garage floors, basements, industrial plants, warehouse floors, schools, factories, hospitals, malls, food processing plants, textile mills, freezers, water and sewage treatment plants, parking decks, airports and stadiums.

I'd also like to minimize oil/fuel stains and damage from salt. The only reservation I have is that it is recommended for smooth, machine-troweled surfaces. My barn floor is fairly smooth, but hand-troweled.

Ken
 
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BoydS

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South of Houston
Ken ... I did a lot of research on a sealant for my slab and finally went with a product from Convergent Concrete Technologys. It is a 2 step process where just after the concrete pour Pentra-Sil is applied. Afterwards, Pentra-Guard is applied. The reason I went with this product is because it holds up to gas, oil, brake fluid, and many other liquids that would stain the slab. It is also reasonably priced. Check out the product sheets Pentra-Sil (NL) and Pentra-Guard (HP) for more detail.


A pic before the sealant.
DSC00003.jpg


A pic after the sealant.
DSC00012-1.jpg


http://www.convergentconcrete.com/main/main.html

http://www.convergentconcrete.com/product/products.html
 
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KenB

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Nice looking floor, BoydS. Unfortunately, my floor has been curing for a few months, so I can't use your solution. I don't suppose the Pentra-Guard can be used by itself...


Ken
 

BoydS

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Ken ... I'm pretty sure the product can be used on you floor. I suggest you call their customer service number and ask for a rep in your area. Discuss your situation with the rep, as I'm sure they can accomodate you. I'm very happy with the results and highly recommend their product.
 

thegarageguy

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most densifiers claim to be penetrating sealers as well... they fill the pores of the concrete so isnt that the point. Hence why a desnifier helps concrete to polish better. Same process with different goals. I am truely interested in the responce on this one.

just googled searched this for example

http://www.productspec.net/products...-penetrating-sealerdensifierwaterproofer.aspx


A densifier is a hardener, not a sealer. It does penetrate but thats it. Its the polishing that closes the pores of the concrete.

Acrylics are the cheapest form of sealer, then comes water based epoxies, 100% solids*, Urethanes* then Polyaspartics

*needs a primer to adhere.
 
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PontiacFan

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Apr 25, 2007
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What the...


Why the, ...


Questions?
Why not post them, rather than a simply two-word reply that makes other people ask, ..., 'Why the heck did you pop this back to the top after 2years, 4months, & 2days?" :lol:
 

Edger

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Why the, ...


Questions?
Why not post them, rather than a simply two-word reply that makes other people ask, ..., 'Why the heck did you pop this back to the top after 2years, 4months, & 2days?" :lol:

Sorry PontiacFan, it was in response to a crazy post that has been removed by the moderator, but perhaps they should have removed mine too.
 
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Edger

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Nah, nothing like that just some Indian website pulling up anything in the forums about hardeners and posting links back to their website.
 

bdc684

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Aug 1, 2011
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Hi everyone,

I have a cement garage floor from 1960. It's pitted and stained, and it's damp most of the time (I live in Pittsburgh). Can I seal it somehow and cut down on the damp?

Thanks!
 

bdc684

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Aug 1, 2011
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Need to kill that water at the source, place drains around your slab.

Thanks, yes of course that needed to be done. I've had the drainage system checked out, and I've had the gutter and downspout repaired. Now I have to deal with some damage on the walls (I was going to scrape and repaint), and I was hoping to cut down on the damp by sealing the old concrete floor. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
 

thegarageguy

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Hi everyone,

I have a cement garage floor from 1960. It's pitted and stained, and it's damp most of the time (I live in Pittsburgh). Can I seal it somehow and cut down on the damp?

Thanks!

You have 2 options....a complete waterproof system that will hold back from 8lbs to 20lbs of vapor emissions, depending on manufacturer. Any finish can be achieved, chips, quartz, decorative concrete, etc..This requires a more aggressive prep and costly, needs to be professionally installed.

The other is a breathable epoxy system. It's a water based thin mil system but will hold back up to 10 lbs of vapor pressure and keep your slab in the 3lbs acceptable rate. Since it's water based, aggressive prep isn't needed, much less expensive, easy to apply but your chemical resistance isn't quite as strong. Very DIY friendly but difficult to find available since these manufacturers only sell to the trade.
 

Jazz

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Newport News, VA
Okay, I'd like at add another question here. Can you first stain the concrete prior to sealing it to give it a bit of color and cover previous stains which aren't removed by cleaning and acid etching?
 

thegarageguy

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Okay, I'd like at add another question here. Can you first stain the concrete prior to sealing it to give it a bit of color and cover previous stains which aren't removed by cleaning and acid etching?

Sure....my preference would be concrete dyes
 
Joined
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Messages
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Ken ... I did a lot of research on a sealant for my slab and finally went with a product from Convergent Concrete Technologys. It is a 2 step process where just after the concrete pour Pentra-Sil is applied. Afterwards, Pentra-Guard is applied. The reason I went with this product is because it holds up to gas, oil, brake fluid, and many other liquids that would stain the slab. It is also reasonably priced. Check out the product sheets Pentra-Sil (NL) and Pentra-Guard (HP) for more detail.


A pic before the sealant.
DSC00003.jpg


A pic after the sealant.
DSC00012-1.jpg


http://www.convergentconcrete.com/main/main.html

http://www.convergentconcrete.com/product/products.html

I saw this post, followed your links, did some reading and had a question. Sent off an e-mail to Dave and in 30 seconds after I hit send he called me. I was impressed.

By the way your floor looks great and sounds like it was easy to do.
 

lreops

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Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
12
Location
Rising Sun, Maryland
You have 2 options....a complete waterproof system that will hold back from 8lbs to 20lbs of vapor emissions, depending on manufacturer. Any finish can be achieved, chips, quartz, decorative concrete, etc..This requires a more aggressive prep and costly, needs to be professionally installed.

The other is a breathable epoxy system. It's a water based thin mil system but will hold back up to 10 lbs of vapor pressure and keep your slab in the 3lbs acceptable rate. Since it's water based, aggressive prep isn't needed, much less expensive, easy to apply but your chemical resistance isn't quite as strong. Very DIY friendly but difficult to find available since these manufacturers only sell to the trade.

This sounds like exactly what I need to do with my basement floor that experiences a mild dampness in the winter on only half the floor. Will this prep work if you plan to paint? 16 years ago, before building my workshop, I prepared my concrete floor to be painted. About three years ago, about 35% to 40% of the painted floor started to flake. Come to find out that apparently the concrete wicks some moisture during the colder months when my dehumidifier does not do its thing when the temp is below 60°. The second issue is that it seems that our wonderful EPA has made it pretty much impossible to buy, much less find, oil based or anything else that is not water based paint.

So, bottom line, do you think that what you mentioned will work for me and how would a DIY'er be able to acquire such a product if mainly only available through the trades. Maybe you could supply some product names and I might get lucky and locate some via the web.

Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer.


Ron

 
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thegarageguy

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Oct 24, 2007
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Hey Ron, unfortunately I am not a seller of chemicals and I am not here to promote, endorse or push any products.

My goal here is to promote my trade and help people understand the possibilities and expectations from my years of experience.

With that said, maybe the local sellers from this forum could help you out. Good luck.
 
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