Concrete Seam Patch

[nmantas]

I have 65 year old concrete in the back that is in good shape (as in the slabs are not cracked) but this was back in the day of using boards as expansion board (basically leaving the forms in) so I have gigantic seams and the wood is long gone. It also has a bunch of heaving from two trees/Michigan winters/ground so the slabs are all over the place. What I did when I moved to the house was to patch up the seams with about 4 inches of bag asphalt toped with about an inch or two of driveway patch (asphalt/tar/fiber material) that I just removed (that lasted about 8 years). Concrete leveling is off the table because if I was going to invest any real money into it it would have to be for full replacement but I don't have the funds for that with two toddlers.

I'm hoping to get ideas from the board about how to put lipstick on this pig. Should I leave the asphalt in there and top it with another form of patch? Do I dig out the asphalt and pour in high psi concrete (using something thin like cardboard as an expansion board)? Do I just dig out all the asphalt and just replace it with about 6 inches of fresh asphalt?
One of the ideas I floated over the years was to cut a strip down the middle and essentially make the seam much larger to then pour a strip to both fill the seam and try to level it off....but again the bigger the job gets I'd have to start comparing it to replacement....which again I can't afford at this time.

I'll take any ideas.

 

[tapered-pin]

pea gravel.

if you need to, widen the narrow joints.

 

[sierradmax]

polymeric sand

 

[Dragfluid]

Add some salt before putting in any porous material to keep the weeds at bay.

 

[flat350]

I had the same situation but mine were reasonably level,filled them with concrete mix and hosed it off to expose the aggregate looks OK and it has held up for 15 years of freeze/thaw cycles.

 

[climb.on]

Add some salt before putting in any porous material to keep the weeds at bay.

That can't be good for the concrete.

 

[ford33]

The uneven surface looks like a tripping hazard for the toddlers and adults. They could get hurt when they trip on the raised edge of the concrete.

I do not know what would be a good filler for the large joints.

Is it possible to improve the concrete area in sections of work and material type? For example, replace a few concrete sections with paver stones so you have a nice walkway. Another solution would be to cut the concrete in such a way as to make a pattern or path that can bill filled with pea gravel, or stepping stones. Add some potted plants along the border to improve the appearance of the path.

 

[nmantas]

Thanks for all the ideas and by all means keep them coming. I'm still torn on which way to go because I'd like to get this fixed ASAP for safety reasons but also don't have the time. I'd really like to cut a larger path with a rented concrete saw (cutting the high side) then having a larger area to fill with concrete so that the elevation could be gradually adjusted.

The uneven surface looks like a tripping hazard for the toddlers and adults. They could get hurt when they trip on the raised edge of the concrete.

I 100% agree but note that it was much safer before I took the top layer off (but still not as safe as being level obviously)....but you are right I at least have to improve the safety ASAP.

 

[tapered-pin]

what about cutting the joints wider (6") and putting sod between them... ?

HERE are some interesting ideas..

(but obviously, not sections THIS small)

 

[77Birdman]

Not the cheapest solution but caulking with a self leveling pool caulk. Looks like the widest joint may be 1-1/2", that's a bit wide but would work. If you go through the trouble of saw cutting, I would cut wide enough to install brick pavers at the joints.

 

[nmantas]

Not the cheapest solution but caulking with a self leveling pool caulk. Looks like the widest joint may be 1-1/2", that's a bit wide but would work. If you go through the trouble of saw cutting, I would cut wide enough to install brick pavers at the joints.

Self leveling is out because everything is so off level and the widest is about 3-1/2"....You might be onto something though about making the gap larger with a saw and then using pavers to fill it instead of bag mix concrete.