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Concrete Thickness

Top Dragster

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Dec 12, 2010
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All looks good with the short sale - should be closing the end of February -

Meeting with the building (ESH Quality Structures) and excavator over the weekend to give them my deposit on the 60 x 48 shop that should be starting around the first week of March.

The builder quoted 4 in thick 4000 psi concrete. I have a 36 foot Renegade Motorhome that will be parked in one bay - it is a Freightliner FL70 chassis with 28' box -

Will four inches be enough or would I be better of going with6 in that bay?


Thanks for any input guys...
 
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catsteve

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Jan 20, 2010
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Australia
i put 6 inches in mine for similar reasons. i think you will be happier if you ever have to use bottle jacks for your motorhome. im no engineer but i wouldnt want to punch a hole in the concrete while im working under it. The cost of extra concrete will be negligable against your piece of mind.
 

framer

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Feb 14, 2010
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Minimum 5 inch with no.4 rebar on 2 ft.centers.Makes good slabs no regrets .
 

red

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Feb 20, 2009
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Hudson Valley, NY
Went with 4" 3000psi with 2ft oc 1/2 rebar with wire mesh. Have had no problems with my garage, but also don't own a large/ heavy trucker. Did water cure my slab for 30 days (covered with plastic and kept it soaking wet)
 

GarageEnvy

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Not related to your original question but you are putting a deposit down with an excavator for work on a property that you don't own yet and it's a short sale? I don't know the particulars of your situation but I work in real estate and I sure see a high percentage of short sales fall through or get severely delayed. That seems a little risky to me.
 

larry_g

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oregon
One factor in your equation is what is the soil under the slab. If your on loose wet soil or rock ledge that will determine more what you will need for slab thickness.

lg
no neat sig line
 
OP
T

Top Dragster

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Envy, no. The short sale has already gone through and we are closing on Feb 28th. I am putting a contingent deposit with the builder that is refundable if something happens and we don't close.
 

SuperSocket

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Do not get too excited about the short sale. A sale was pulled out from under me with 7 days to close. My brother tried to buy a short sale house and the bank also pulled out the offer from him within 24 hours to close.

Just saying, went through two of these myself with the bank pulling out at the last minute and I learned not to get my hopes up. Just giving you advice not to spend or put plans in concrete until you have that key in your hand :) Don't make my mistake :D
 

mobetta

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I bet they have more money for lawyers than you do. I would wait on the deposit until after close- what will that do- push you back a week or two on the contractors schedule?

but 5" of mud w/ rebar should be sufficient. also you could go up to a higher psi/ more portland mix. that will make a stronger slab.
 

SuperSocket

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Can they do that even with a signed contract?

Read the contract, banks and even sellers can sometimes "change their minds"

I signed a non-bid exclusive contract with good sum of money down for "insurance", under my contract I would have been sued if I left the deal.... yet the bank can walk out. It's essentially the banks money and you are at their mercy.

Also wait for your full appraisal because that can give banks and even your mortgage company many outs... small things like owner occupancy rate, hoa delinquent rate, build up percentage, etc could all screw you.


Not trying to be a debbie downer, just letting you know that it's not final until you have that key in your hand.
 
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GarageEnvy

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Ockie, gives good advice. So good, that I'd bet he's worked as an appraiser, underwriter or loan officer at some point. I work as an appraiser and I can only speak for my area but many, many short sales are either seriously delayed or fall apart at the last moment. Stay on top of everything. Get everything in writing. You can't call too often. Think of that signed contract as an engagement ring. It's a good faith signal of both parties intentions but it doesn't mean you're married. I work as an appraiser in a horrible market so the sales that aren't resales of bank owned properties are usually short sales. In my area I'd say 40-50 percent go as planned. I'm also not trying to scare you but I do want to make sure you do your due diligence and everything you can to insure the deal goes through.
 
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jafi

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Nov 10, 2010
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North of Baltimore
It also wouldn't hurt to pour in a few grade beams in the concrete along with the 5" slab and 2'x2' rebar grid.

In my house's garage floor, I dug a 4" deep trench down the middle and from side to side. I ran a single piece of rebar in them and tied it into the 2x2 grid. It just provides an extra thickened concrete "beam" that helps support the floor and really doesn't use that much extra concrete.
 

SuperSocket

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Ockie, gives good advice. So good, that I'd bet he's worked as an appraiser, underwriter or loan officer at some point. I work as an appraiser and I can only speak for my area but many, many short sales are either seriously delayed or fall apart at the last moment. Stay on top of everything. Get everything in writing. You can't call too often. Think of that signed contract as an engagement ring. It's a good faith signal of both parties intentions but it doesn't mean you're married. I work as an appraiser in a horrible market so the sales that aren't resales of bank owned properties are usually short sales. In my area I'd say 40-50 percent go as planned. I'm also not trying to scare you but I do want to make sure you do your due diligence and everything you can to insure the deal goes through.

Nope, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night :lol_hitti


I have just been around the block too many times with these experiences. After nearly a year with these failed attempts at short sales, I gave up. Trying to buy cash now, at least I can cut out all this paperwork and problems.... when I bought a house in 2004/2005, I had to sign on the dotted line one a few pages, done deal... hell, the banks were eager to approve me WAY beyond any reasonable means.... now, I basically have to give the bank my blood and first born with all these new requirements and these banks are being totally terrible.... they double dip on insured mortgages and they have the house to sell. :wtf:


Hope things works out better for the OP than it did for me :)
 
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EARTH QUAKE SHAKE PROOF...NORTH OTAGO,WAITAKI DIST
Hi from new zealand.
Try to dig a few pile holes at least 1 feet deep and same in diameter spaced 1.1/2 meter apart. Then fill with vibed conk and reo bars sterupt to be used for holding mesh. ......the piles are lined on path of where tires / max weight to be applied.

When pouring floor, make sure concrete is vibed to release gas bubbles and increase density.

Regarding the mix, make sure it is the driest, stiffest mix you can buy or mix.

After vibbing, screed to strike off then bull float off. Then wait until last of the bleed water evaporates wait another 15 minutes then kelly float the hell outtr it.

Note and first rule of conk;......the driest (stiffest) the mix and vibe will lead to a strong final product..... But make sure prior to conk pour the base is to be compacted untill compactor bounces on base.
Dig down to clay base and level off, apply weed mat cloth to stop fill settling then fill and compact hardfill to level then cover with poly line (optional) apply mesh on chairs then pour.
Once set and floated........ Have micro sprinkers on to keep pad damp for curing.... 7 day minimum and 23 days for max strength, curing is very important to avoid shrinking /cracking.

I work on structurly critical conk projects

oh! 4 inch will do as long as u put in piles.

All the best
 

38Chevy454

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Dec 26, 2006
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Cincinnati, OH
I think the extra thickness is a small cost increase vs the benefit. The forms and labor to pour the concrete is basically the same, the only increase is the incremental extra amount of concrete you need. An extra inch or two is only a few yards depoending how big the specific bay area is.
 

mobetta

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Feb 10, 2010
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370
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twin cities, mn
for the most part, as a ROT, dealing w/ the slab thickness' we are talking, adding an inch of thickness will increase slab strength by 50%.

5"vs 4"-- = 56% stronger
(5. / 4) squared = 1.5625

6 vs 5=44% stronger.
(6 / 5) squared = 1.44

and 6 vs 4= 225% stronger
(6 / 4) squared = 2.25

click here
 
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