Concrete wall sawing

[69gp]

I have about 50' (corrected) lin feet of 10" wall I need to cut for my garage addition. getting prices of 3 to 4K. Was wondering if anyone has used the Husqvarna K 3000 Cut-n-Break. https://www.husqvarnacp.com/us/machines/power-cutters/k-3000-cut-n-break/968388404/

Does anyone have any input on these saws or used one before.

Wall is only being cut down 1' for about 23' and the other section is 3' high by 17' long. Not sure if its best to just sub it out or do it myself. Buy the saw and then just flip on craigs list or ebay.

Can buy new one with blades for $1450.00 for the gas model

 

[LXCam]

If the cuts need to be dead nuts on for plumb, level and square. You're best bet is the pay the man. Wall saws have a track system that makes all that easy. You can do it by hand, I have in the past for small cuts. But!, once you get in 4-5" and you bind up the blade you're gonna have you hands full not including killing or damaging a $250 blade.

There are a couple considerations too. Is this a cast in place wall (CIP) and if so do you know what PSI the concrete is. Is it block and if so is it all solid grout or partial. How much rebar is there, any idea? If it is block is it precision block or split face, etc.

If you do decide to tackle this by hand I'd figure out some method of fabricating a guide. You might also consider making you're first cut with a skill saw and diamond blade with a guide so the first 3" are straight and square, thise will help you guide the larger blade since you'll be able to hear and feel it bind if you start getting off.


Good luck.

 

[TRWham]

Are you cutting 5' of wall or 40' of wall? Your numbers don't add up for me.

If I wanted to do it myself, I'd rent a saw. The last time we cut a hole in a foundation, we hammer drilled holes at the corners as a reference, but that was only a 3' by 5' hole for an egress window.

 

[Rock knocker]

There are a couple considerations too. Is this a cast in place wall (CIP) and if so do you know what PSI the concrete is. Is it block and if so is it all solid grout or partial. How much rebar is there, any idea? If it is block is it precision block or split face, etc.

Why do you need to know any of that? I've never seen a cutter who cared about a anything in a saw cut other than pipes, electrical and PT cables.

I don't see how PSI would figure into any consideration.

 

[LXCam]

Why do you need to know any of that? I've never seen a cutter who cared about a anything in a saw cut other than pipes, electrical and PT cables.

I don't see how PSI would figure into any consideration.

Has nothing to do with it for the pro. Has everything to do with it if he plans on doing it by hand. If it were CMU and not solid grout, I'd probably consider it with the hand saw. As for the PSI, you ever played with a 5000psi pour? It'll wear out blades damn quick if you're not careful.

 

[69gp]

If the cuts need to be dead nuts on for plumb, level and square. You're best bet is the pay the man. Wall saws have a track system that makes all that easy. You can do it by hand, I have in the past for small cuts. But!, once you get in 4-5" and you bind up the blade you're gonna have you hands full not including killing or damaging a $250 blade.

There are a couple considerations too. Is this a cast in place wall (CIP) and if so do you know what PSI the concrete is. Is it block and if so is it all solid grout or partial. How much rebar is there, any idea? If it is block is it precision block or split face, etc.

If you do decide to tackle this by hand I'd figure out some method of fabricating a guide. You might also consider making you're first cut with a skill saw and diamond blade with a guide so the first 3" are straight and square, thise will help you guide the larger blade since you'll be able to hear and feel it bind if you start getting off.


Good luck.

Thanks for the input. The saw has 2 blades and after you cut 2.5" in you need to snap the piece between the blades out. I can support the cut sections with wedges as I go along. Cuts do not need to be on the money just going to be buried below a new concrete floor. I did pour the walls 30 years ago. 3500 lb with steel

 

[LXCam]

Thanks for the input. The saw has 2 blades and after you cut 2.5" in you need to snap the piece between the blades out. I can support the cut sections with wedges as I go along. Cuts do not need to be on the money just going to be buried below a new concrete floor. I did pour the walls 30 years ago. 3500 lb with steel

Well that's good. At least you know exactly what you're in for.

 

[69gp]

Are you cutting 5' of wall or 40' of wall? Your numbers don't add up for me.

If I wanted to do it myself, I'd rent a saw. The last time we cut a hole in a foundation, we hammer drilled holes at the corners as a reference, but that was only a 3' by 5' hole for an egress window.

thanks for pointing that out. 50'. nobody in the area has a saw to rent.

 

[ssdave]

I bought my concrete saw in similar circumstances over 25 years ago. Paid for itself on the first job, and I've done a lot with it since.

The saw you're looking at is a bit specialized. I would use a cutoff saw instead; that's what I have: https://www.cpooutlets.com/bosch-1364-12-in--abrasive-cutoff-machine/bshn1364,default,pd.html?ref=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=722&zmap=bshn1364&gclid=CjwKCAjw9-HZBRAwEiwAGw0Qcf49tJ9T4ISAXi3fqU8XqZ7SuBXuNslRHX-ZkCLu2D9wmrDWzMwnvRoCkuQQAvD_BwE

For what you describe, if you can get at the wall from both sides and you're pouring concrete over it and don't care about perfectly straight and level, I'd cut part way through from both sides. The saw I have with 14" blades cuts about 4 to 5 inches deep. I'd put a 2x4 or 2x6 under the cut to rest the saw on as a guide, and cut about 1" depth at a time. 4 or 5 passess to get to full depth of the saw. On the vertical, put a guide up also. Wear goggles, a face shield, and a very good respirator, and preferably use a box fan to blow the dust away from you. There will be a lot! When you get as deep as you can from one side, switch to the other side. You'll have an inch or so left between cuts. Then, make a few vertical cuts across the wall top, and have at it with a sledge hammer. To do about 50 feet of cuts this way will be a good days job, and will cost you most of the life in a cheap 14" dry cut blade. So, saw and blade, you'll be out about $600, minus resale value. Hard work to make $2500 in a day, but you'll know if it's worth it to you. For me it has been, it's hard work but I usually make $250 or more per hour in savings when I use that saw. I've made tens of thousands of dollars with it over the years. Using that saw is the hardest and most tiring work that I ever do. It's brutal.

The cutoff saw is also very useful to do steel cuts with abrasive blades. Great for demoing out pipework in buildings. Great for cutting concrete paver. Great for cutting tile backer board. Great for saw cutting concrete floors. Or cutting out sidewalks. Or cutting rebar to length. Even ripping steel plate. Some guys put a wood blade in them for beams, I don't think that's safe, so don't do.

 

[ishiboo]

I have a 14" Partner and a 20" walk-behind. I'd definitely pay to have it sawn. Holding the saw sideways for all that distance is not going to be fun.

If you insist on doing it, I agree with ssdave - I wouldn't buy the cut-n-brake, I would use a 14" hand saw and cut from both sides. A K760 or similar is going to be a much more versatile saw and cheaper. Use the water feed there will be no dust or mess. Definitely don't put a wood blade in in the future.

 

[69gp]

I bought my concrete saw in similar circumstances over 25 years ago. Paid for itself on the first job, and I've done a lot with it since.

The saw you're looking at is a bit specialized. I would use a cutoff saw instead; that's what I have: https://www.cpooutlets.com/bosch-1364-12-in--abrasive-cutoff-machine/bshn1364,default,pd.html?ref=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=722&zmap=bshn1364&gclid=CjwKCAjw9-HZBRAwEiwAGw0Qcf49tJ9T4ISAXi3fqU8XqZ7SuBXuNslRHX-ZkCLu2D9wmrDWzMwnvRoCkuQQAvD_BwE

For what you describe, if you can get at the wall from both sides and you're pouring concrete over it and don't care about perfectly straight and level, I'd cut part way through from both sides. The saw I have with 14" blades cuts about 4 to 5 inches deep. I'd put a 2x4 or 2x6 under the cut to rest the saw on as a guide, and cut about 1" depth at a time. 4 or 5 passess to get to full depth of the saw. On the vertical, put a guide up also. Wear goggles, a face shield, and a very good respirator, and preferably use a box fan to blow the dust away from you. There will be a lot! When you get as deep as you can from one side, switch to the other side. You'll have an inch or so left between cuts. Then, make a few vertical cuts across the wall top, and have at it with a sledge hammer. To do about 50 feet of cuts this way will be a good days job, and will cost you most of the life in a cheap 14" dry cut blade. So, saw and blade, you'll be out about $600, minus resale value. Hard work to make $2500 in a day, but you'll know if it's worth it to you. For me it has been, it's hard work but I usually make $250 or more per hour in savings when I use that saw. I've made tens of thousands of dollars with it over the years. Using that saw is the hardest and most tiring work that I ever do. It's brutal.

The cutoff saw is also very useful to do steel cuts with abrasive blades. Great for demoing out pipework in buildings. Great for cutting concrete paver. Great for cutting tile backer board. Great for saw cutting concrete floors. Or cutting out sidewalks. Or cutting rebar to length. Even ripping steel plate. Some guys put a wood blade in them for beams, I don't think that's safe, so don't do.

Thanks for the advice. Yeah safety is big so i will be doing everything to protect myself. I can only cut from the outside so a cutoff saw wont work. I did add a couple of pictures to the original post that shows the walls that need to be cut.

 

[LXCam]

Woof that's a lot of horizontal cut. If I were going to do that with a hand saw (btw pictures are a big help) I'd get some double deep unistrut or bolt a couple pieces back to back. Support that horizontally with some angle brackets and buy a couple unistrut trolleys and hang the saw so the only thing you physically have to fight would be keeping the blade square to the wall.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN9UA0S/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[glider]

We installed a egress window years back. Money well spent contracting out. You have a huge project there.

 

[finn]

Sounds like a skid steer or excavator with a hammer may be a better tool for that job.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Before you start cutting, do you have it properly supported on the inside ? That's alot of cutting to do yourself, not saying that I wouldn't do it myself ?

Work slow and safe. We have a partner saw at the fire dept (they got bought by Husky) and when you get that blade wound up and spinning, it has a huge amount of momentum. Be careful.

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

I own five different types of saws including the cut and break and will say that horizontal cuts with the cut n break is a real pain. It is an awesome saw but I would not recommend cutting concrete in a horizontal position with that saw


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[69gp]

Before you start cutting, do you have it properly supported on the inside ? That's alot of cutting to do yourself, not saying that I wouldn't do it myself ?

Work slow and safe. We have a partner saw at the fire dept (they got bought by Husky) and when you get that blade wound up and spinning, it has a huge amount of momentum. Be careful.

Roof and walls will come down before cutting.

 

[69gp]

I own five different types of saws including the cut and break and will say that horizontal cuts with the cut n break is a real pain. It is an awesome saw but I would not recommend cutting concrete in a horizontal position with that saw


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Thanks for the advise leaning more towards just subbing it out

 

[Spareparts]

My BIL moved a large house and we cut pockets out to slide the beams across the house to raise. He bought a Partner saw and we started cutting, the dust was rough so we had a 100 gal tank with a small 12 pump with a wand. One of us sawed and the other keep it wet and no more dust and the saw blade lasted a lot longer.

 

[Spareparts]

It is close to the 4th of July, get some C-4 and get it over quick. LOL

 

[NUTTSGT]

Roof and walls will come down before cutting.

If they are coming down before cutting the concrete, why can't you cut from the inside like you mentioned previously ?

 

[James-W]

If it were me I would hire someone to do it. This job would be more than I would want to tackle. I am all for doing things myself, but sometimes it is best to bite the bullet and hire someone with all the equipment and expertise to do the work.

 

[sierradmax]

PM me. where abouts in MA are you? I have an ICS concrete saw and may be able to help you out.

 

[Homerr]

For $3-4k I'd hire it out for this much work. It seems like there are going to have to be many vertical cuts as well to safely do this in 3-4' chunks? Plus hauling away, ugh!

 

[ishiboo]

PM me. where abouts in MA are you? I have an ICS concrete saw and may be able to help you out.

This would be the way to go if you want to DIY it. Spend $300 to buy your own chain.

 

[NUTTSGT]

PM me. where abouts in MA are you? I have an ICS concrete saw and may be able to help you out.

A few fellow GJ'er trying to help out another member. Awesome.

 

[69gp]

PM me. where abouts in MA are you? I have an ICS concrete saw and may be able to help you out.

sent you a pm with contact info

 

[Mguilicutty]

It sounds like there is a concrete floor in the way on the inside. I agree with some other posters, it is doable but will be a heck of a job. Definitely find some way to support the saw and guide the cuts.

 

[69gp]

After reading replies and kicking the can around I have decided to bring a company in to saw cut my walls. Time is a killer for me as I just don't have as much as I think I do.

I will start a thread of my build shortly so that you can follow along and see what I have going on.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Wow. I would not EVEN consider a job that size to save such small money. You are ambitious or invincible or delusional or something!

An office down the street had something like that done. The pro used a vehicle mounted hydraulic arm with a two foot diameter saw blade to make the cut. It took them a single day. It was an impressive bit of equipment expertly used.

 

[NORDFORD]

My company rents and sells the cut n breaks. Awesome saws. Personally, I’ve cut in 8 egress windows on the side. That being said, it is not the right saw for the job at all. Good idea to sub it out!

 

[ItsNemo]

Wow. I would not EVEN consider a job that size to save such small money. You are ambitious or invincible or delusional or something!

An office down the street had something like that done. The pro used a vehicle mounted hydraulic arm with a two foot diameter saw blade to make the cut. It took them a single day. It was an impressive bit of equipment expertly used.

Yeah, I would imagine a curb cutting saw would handle this no problem...

I can't imagine it would take them more than an hour or two to do...I've watched them cut driveway openings 20' wide in a half hour.

 

[Orionrising]

I would just rent a mini with a concrete hammer if the foundation is gonna be abandoned under a slab anyway.

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[Bretny]

You will be pouring a floor over top of the cut and your removing the structure over it?
Rent a demo saw and every few feet hammer in a wood wedge. Or cut verticaly every so often and take chunks out. Taking chunks out would prob be preferred any way.