Condensate drain options

[Netman]

So after pondering my heating options for the shop I decided to opt for the furnace, which I have mounted horizontally from the ceiling. I have my intake and exhaust venting through the wall. At present I have the condensate draining into a bucket on the floor. Not realizing how much water this thing would spit out in a day, I am emptying about a gallon a day and it has been mild with the thermostat set at 50. I don't want to be doing this every day so wondering what method to drain the condensate.

I would love to run it out the wall and drain along the side of the shop which is on a slope, so good drainage. However I am in northern B.C. where it is not uncommon to get -20 or worse. If the drain hose is at a steep angle will it run off quickly enough to avoid freezing in the line or am I asking for problems? Is heat tape worth the hassle.

The other option is running a pump from the furnace to the laundry room which is about 50 feet of hose away from the furnace. I like the option of running out the bottom of the wall to the outside but not sure if the freezing possibility would be worth the hassle.

Has anyone in a colder climate tried this and if so, what were the results?

 

[Ohmthis]

Go back and read the install manual that came with the furnace. It should outline how, where, and any special provisions for the drain. Here we wrap it in armaflex (the same thing around the AC lineset, but it doesn't get that cold. I still have seen the condo sate freeze. Does the water freeze in your down spouts? I would think so. That is the same principal, the first run doesn't freeze. After it drains and the little drips left freeze. Over time that build up until it's frozen over.

 

[larry4406]

Plumbing/condensate piping should be pitched at about 1/4" per foot. You say that the laundry tub is about 50' away and that you have the condensing furnace mounted up horizontally at the ceiling. Surface mount your condensate piping on the interior wall pitched towards the sink. Gravity is your friend no pump required. A 50' run is only a pitch of 12.5".

Some AHJ's get their ******* in a wad running "unmetered water" down the drain so IF this is an inspected installation, then beware.

In our production homes, our condensing furnaces drain to a floor drain which goes to the sump crock. Then the sump pump periodically discharges via 1.5" piping. As there is not a continuous drip from the line, and the pipe is large, the discharge piping does not freeze over. Not sure if this would work in your climate.

 

[Netman]

Would definitely need a pump. The drain is about 20" below the ceiling and I would run it along the wall. There is a door at the far end of the shop that would be in the path of the hose, and at the slope needed for Gravity feed it would cross in front of it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Run a loop up a high as possible (between the ceiling joists it possible) as close to the pump as possible. Run the tube to the laundry tub. Gravity will do the rest including going over any humps in the middle.

 

[derkperk]

I live in MN so it gets plenty cold here. I have a boiler with the condensate ran into a pump then out through the wall. I pulled the check valve out of the pump discharge and ran 3/8 poly line sleeved in 1/2 PVC. The the outlet never gets plugged by ice because the water in the line drains back to the pump sump. Been working this way for 3 years, no problems. .

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[zmaxmotorsports]

So after pondering my heating options for the shop I decided to opt for the furnace, which I have mounted horizontally from the ceiling. I have my intake and exhaust venting through the wall. At present I have the condensate draining into a bucket on the floor. Not realizing how much water this thing would spit out in a day, I am emptying about a gallon a day and it has been mild with the thermostat set at 50. I don't want to be doing this every day so wondering what method to drain the condensate.

I would love to run it out the wall and drain along the side of the shop which is on a slope, so good drainage. However I am in northern B.C. where it is not uncommon to get -20 or worse. If the drain hose is at a steep angle will it run off quickly enough to avoid freezing in the line or am I asking for problems? Is heat tape worth the hassle.

The other option is running a pump from the furnace to the laundry room which is about 50 feet of hose away from the furnace. I like the option of running out the bottom of the wall to the outside but not sure if the freezing possibility would be worth the hassle.

Has anyone in a colder climate tried this and if so, what were the results?

Id probably just install a condensate pump and run it to a stand pipe or floor drain.

 

[Netman]

I live in MN so it gets plenty cold here. I have a boiler with the condensate ran into a pump then out through the wall. I pulled the check valve out of the pump discharge and ran 3/8 poly line sleeved in 1/2 PVC. The the outlet never gets plugged by ice because the water in the line drains back to the pump sump. Been working this way for 3 years, no problems. .

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

How far is the hose protruding past the outside wall? Is the pump located below the exit point on the wall so the water left in the line drains back into the pump? Do you have a picture of your set up? This sounds like the way I'd like to go if possible.

 

[yeldogt]

We don't have any code restrictions running the pump discharge to the house plumbing. Mine are all attached that way -- pump attached to the furnace and plastic or cu tubing to the drain.

 

[derkperk]

How far is the hose protruding past the outside wall? Is the pump located below the exit point on the wall so the water left in the line drains back into the pump? Do you have a picture of your set up? This sounds like the way I'd like to go if possible.

The poly line isn't more than 2" outside the wall and yes the pump is located below the exit point so the condensate drains back. I will snap a few picks when I get a chance.

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[ctfjr]

Depending on your soil conditions and water table height, could you just punch a hole in your floor to drain it? I have a couple in my basement to drain ac units and flow thru humidifier.

 

[Netman]

Depending on your soil conditions and water table height, could you just punch a hole in your floor to drain it? I have a couple in my basement to drain ac units and flow thru humidifier.

This has been mentioned but I have 4' concrete perimeter frost wall. I'm worried what may happen long term with all that water draining under my slab with essentially nowhere to go. With my luck I will end up with a sink hole in the middle of my shop. Maybe I'm being a little too paranoid, not sure.

 

[Netman]

The poly line isn't more than 2" outside the wall and yes the pump is located below the exit point so the condensate drains back. I will snap a few picks when I get a chance.

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If you could do that, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[derkperk]

Here are a few shots. I guess the discharge line stick out further than I remembered but still works the same.

Btw, not a fan of the drain it into the ground idea. Moisture will wick away your heat from the slab.





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[Gater6572]

Curious if this is still working well for you derkperk

 

[Jackfre]

I’m curious if there is still a concrete floor/footing where the condensate is draining. The condensate from a condensing appliance is about 3.2 Ph. that is aggressive and will eat concrete and metal. If draining outside the building neutralize the condensate prior to discharge.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I’m curious if there is still a concrete floor/footing where the condensate is draining. The condensate from a condensing appliance is about 3.2 Ph. that is aggressive and will eat concrete and metal. If draining outside the building neutralize the condensate prior to discharge.

Correct. That's why a neutralizer is required on fuel burning condensing equipment by code.

 

[Jackfre]

Correct Tommy, but so many are installed without them. Also, if installed they are never re-filled as it is one of those things folks just don’t like to do. I installed one in our previous home about a year ago. It had been a non-condensing tankless. I prefer the 80%’ers specifically for the lack of a drain. Prior to selling the house I wanted a new water heater so I called the Rep and got my hands on a condensing model at no charge so I had to deal with the drain. I made my own neutralizer out of 6“ pvc and managed to stuff it into the closet with the water heater. I bought 50# of limestone chips and filled it up, setting the remaining rock next to the unit. It is simple to fill.

 

[Fav Onefour]

Old thread, but still relevant.

I'm in MN. I have a 250K boiler in garage shop that I tried to run with condensate draining directly into daylight drain. It will not work with the condensate slow drip in cold temps. The outlet will freeze.
I initially ran without treating the condensate. The outlet was down by the road and I could see where it was hitting the concrete. Granted, this is a big boiler so there is a lot of volume. A smaller unit will do the same over time.

I'd love to hear if the pump setup going out the wall works for the long haul. In my case, I avoided the issue and ran a condensate pump with line going to the laundry drain. The line has an eight foot vertical off the pump that goes into fifty feet of gradual slope before hitting the laundry. I'm on the third year with the pump setup and it's been hassle free so far. One incredible advantage is the lack of ice around the old outlet setup.

It's interesting in retrospect how much changing the drain setup has helped. The old version with all the ice buildup and freezing was a royal pain. I had tried heat tape on the line, and all sorts of ice melting solutions. It seemed like I spent a ton of warm up days just chipping away ice by the outlet. I like winter, but that drain was my nemesis. With the pump and line routed to a drain it's pretty simple now.