Conduit through the attic... How to mount?

[Rivenin]

I bought a house a few months ago and i'm finally getting to the garage bit by bit.
The next step is wiring a sub panel on the other side of the garage for my electrical brewing system. I've already bought the surface mount sub panel, the GFCI is installed and the brewing controller is wired next to that.
There is currently an extra 50 amp breaker that is running to the backyard for a hot tub that is no longer there... so i'm moving the wiring to the other side of the garage to the sub panel. However, i've never ran conduit before and it's fairly self explanitory... plumbing for your wires

What the plan is, pull the wires back into the house in the attic from the backyard. run the wires to the other side of the garage and drop them down to the surface mounted sub panel. However, i cannot find any information on how to put this into conduit... might be a silly question, but usually when dealing with this kind of stuff in the past, there is always some sort of a mount or compression fitting to make sure the piping doesn't come loose... but everything i can find just shows the conduit coming out of the sub panel and sticking through a hole in the attic and the wires just go in there... does that sound right? or am i missing something?

:EDIT:
this is what 'im speaking of... Does this meet code?

 

[PaulyC]

while i personally wouldnt use an offset ****** into the panel like pictured, you can do it like that. also if you look closely at the top of the ****** there is a set screw that holds the conduit in place. the ****** is threaded and held to the panel by a lock nut. ideally you would want to bend a box offset into the conduit and just use a regular set screw or compression connector. i prefer compression connectors solely based on looks, personally.

as per code, you one to support the conduit within 3 feet of the termination point, and every 10 feet minimum after that. most guys i know do 12 inches from the box and every 8 feet there after.

 

[Rivenin]

Perfect, thank you!

i'm only going about 5' to the attic and just reusing the conduit from the backyard. so all in all, that part will be free... with the house purchase

thanks again!

 

[Rivenin]

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[Rivenin]

Did want to follow up and say thanks again. Everything is fully functional !

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[larry4406]

Nice!

Now educate us on your brew system!

 

[gungatim]

Nice!

Now educate us on your brew system!

yeah what kind of controller are you using? standard 220v SSR from ebay? pot or temp controlled? how many elements and how fast can you get to a boil? I built a standard one but am getting ready to put another one together with a digital volt/amp readout...always like to see what others have come up with...

 

[Rivenin]

yeah what kind of controller are you using? standard 220v SSR from ebay? pot or temp controlled? how many elements and how fast can you get to a boil? I built a standard one but am getting ready to put another one together with a digital volt/amp readout...always like to see what others have come up with...

Nice!

Now educate us on your brew system!

Ah! didn't know people would be interested over here

It's a controller i built and wired up from parts on Auberins.com, Ebay and home depot / Lowes.

Standard SSR from ebay i'm not using, i've fried too many of them / melted. Most of the ratings on the cheap ones you find on ebay are rated for about 1/2 the power as they're really easy to rip off.

Ended up buying a maeger relay off of ebay for just a bit more and bought a heatsink for a bit more, but it's been running perfectly fine. But the Auber ones are usually rip offs and have bad electronics in them.

Here is the controller

1115150824b by Noah Scott, on Flickr

and the wiring - this is with the old relay and heat sink though,

[/url]1113152326 by Noah Scott, on Flickr[/IMG]

and here is the current boil kettle, soon to be replaced with the one under the brew stand in the picture above.

1129151203 by Noah Scott, on Flickr

and here is the whole area in my other place

1122151757a by Noah Scott, on Flickr

As far as the controller goes, it's a super simple PID driven SSR and contactor system ran through a GFCI and has a 4500w water heater element in the pot itself.

the pid basically runs off of two modes you can put it in
either percentage or temperature.
Lets say you're heating strike water, or you only need it to as certain temperature. You set it to the degree you want it to be and you can at that point walk away, if you had a alarm on it, you can set it to beep the alarm so you know when it's there, but basically when it hits the temp, it turns the element on and off to maintain that temperature.
in percentage mode you'd usually do for boiling... at 4500w and 5500w elements these setups are normally run at, if you're boiling 12g of liquid with 4500w you might be able to get away with 100% if your pot is big enough, but mostly you can set the percentage from 1-100... 100 being on 100% of the time and down to 1% of a set time, so it'll pulse. so if you have it set to 75, it'll turn on for.. for example... .75 seconds out of a second and shut off for .25 seconds.
Normally when it starts to hit a boil, i turn it down to something like 85 and watch it for a few minutes and make sure it's boiling well and then i can walk away... it's a pretty nice thing.
When i had gas i wouldn't leave this thing for a second besides grabbing a beer or taking a leak. now i can set this and i can help watch the kids, clean up, etc.

If you have any more questions though, let me know!

oh, and here is the wiring diagram i based mine off of