Conduit when entering structure

[checkthisout]

So I added these two conduits on the left for 2 15 amp circuits going outside to my chicken coop and a light on a pole. Home Depot didn't have 1" conduit connectors so I couldn't extend the one on the left. I'm going to extend the one on the right slightly.

but before I do,

I want to know if I can terminate the conduits right inside the wall and then run bare the bare wire through the holes in the studs as you normally would with interior wiring or do I have to connect the conduits to the breaker box?

Thanks

View media item 54573

 

[wyliesdiesels]

What kind of wire is that?

Looks like UF-b. If so, then it can be ran inside the walls without conduit just like NM-b...

 

[gregtwojeeps]

So I added these two conduits on the left for 2 15 amp circuits going outside to my chicken coop and a light on a pole. Home Depot didn't have 1" conduit connectors so I couldn't extend the one on the left. I'm going to extend the one on the right slightly.

but before I do,

I want to know if I can terminate the conduits right inside the wall and then run bare the bare wire through the holes in the studs as you normally would with interior wiring or do I have to connect the conduits to the breaker box?

Thanks

View media item 54573

Is this pic of your garage or porch ? In my opinion, anytime exposed cabling is located lower than 6 ft. AFF, I like to give it protection from physical damage like garden tools or objects being thrown up against it and possibly nicking it. Pets, rodents can be an issue also. To me, PVC conduit is cheap insurance for the cables in the pic. FWIW and JMO

 

[sands35]

Use a cable staple within ~6" of exiting the PVC. Same NEC requirement as leaving a junction box. You may be asked to put a bushing on the end, but that is an AHJ call.

Running conduit up 6' is a good idea. You should also put on nailing plates.

Conduit is used for protection or for convenience of pulling new wire behind a finished wall (for example).

 

[checkthisout]

Is this pic of your garage or porch ? In my opinion, anytime exposed cabling is located lower than 6 ft. AFF, I like to give it protection from physical damage like garden tools or objects being thrown up against it and possibly nicking it. Pets, rodents can be an issue also. To me, PVC conduit is cheap insurance for the cables in the pic. FWIW and JMO

It's where power enters my pole building. You're looking at a concrete slab and the inside of an exterior wall.

The wall will be insulated and then covered with OSB thus protecting the cables. L&I requires conduit all the way to any enclosure below 10 feet if you're not covering the wall.

 

[checkthisout]

Use a cable staple within ~6" of exiting the PVC. Same NEC requirement as leaving a junction box. You may be asked to put a bushing on the end, but that is an AHJ call.

Running conduit up 6' is a good idea. You should also put on nailing plates.

Conduit is used for protection or for convenience of pulling new wire behind a finished wall (for example).

Ok, thanks.

I was going to extend the conduits slightly and then put a block them. Fasten the conduits to the box and then staple the cable at the normal distances until it reached the box.

My plan was to put conduit connectors as "bushings" but Homeless Depot was out of 1" conduit connectors....annoying.

 

[checkthisout]

I asked this before but the answer was still unclear. Think of me as a complete *****. (shouldn't be hard).

1) 1 of those wires is going out to a light pole which will have an outlet at it's base.

My plan was to use a GFCI breaker on that circuit, out to the outlet and then up to the light on the pole.

GFCI breaker---->plug at base of light pole----->light on light pole.

Is this ok?

2) The other wire is going out to my chicken coop. Which is an enclosed shed or what I would define as a structure.

My plan is: GFCI breaker--->Wire down to coop----->Wire enters coop and goes to a normal snap switch like you use for lights-------->Wire then splits as need for lighting and an outlet.


The key here being that I am using a lighting switch as a disconnecting means for a single 120V circuit in a structure which is GFCI protected back at it's source.

No overlead protection I.E. a sub-panel and breakers and grounding are required in the coop.

Correct?

We are under 2014 NEC requirements

 

[pattenp]

You're good on both 1 & 2. How deep are the conduits buried? If you did 18" or more you can get by with using GFCI outlets at the pole and coop and not use GFCI breakers. That should save you some money. On the pole use weather resistant outlet (WR) and a proper weather proof box.

 

[checkthisout]

You're good on both 1 & 2. How deep are the conduits buried? If you did 18" or more you can get by with using GFCI outlets at the pole and coop and not use GFCI breakers. That should save you some money. On the pole use weather resistant outlet (WR) and a proper weather proof box.

Thanks for the tip. One is down 18" the other varies. Lots of big rocks, trees and stumps...too much for even a mini excavator...I couldn't trench straight down to the coop because of my water line and septic reserve area. (can't dig it up).

Yes, the price of GFCI breakers makes me want to cry although I have found them to be more reliable than GFCI outlets.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Looks like a recipe for fried chicken to me anyway.

 

[checkthisout]

Looks like a recipe for fried chicken to me anyway.

The rooster has it coming!