Configuring a socket set

[Conductor562]

So, I'm pushing 30 and I've been buying tools for around 16 years. Over the last couple of years I've been upgrading most of my old "starter tools" to Proto and I've been 100% happy with just about every one of them. I feel the time has come for me to upgrade and expand the last major holdout, sockets. My Willams era Kobalt set has been great. I've used them quite a bit since I got them in 1998 and they're still ticking. I know someone will call me retarded for replacing perfectly good sockets and while your point is valid, frankly, I don't give I damn. I want to expand sizes and I'm too OCD for my sockets not to all match (don't judge me). I want new ones, I can afford new ones, and I'm reasonably sure I won't be divorced if I buy them over 3 or 4 months. Moving on!

I'm 200% committed to buying a Proto set so I'm not looking for brand suggestions. I am curious however, as to how to diversify the 6pts. versus the 12 Pts. The Proto Torque Plus 12 pt. design has proven very effective and while I don't really have any concerns with them rounding fasteners, I just like 6 Pts. better. I cant justify ruling 12 pt. out though because (albiet rare) there are 12 pt. fastners out there. I first thought about going all 12 pt. seeing that my combo's are 12 pt. and I eventually thought about going 6 pt. for shallow (likely higher torque situations) and 12 pt. for deeps. Then I thought to much about it and decided I may be better off with a 12 shallow/6 deep configuration because of the outside chance I need a shallow on a 12 pt. fastener. I then realized this was really needless when factoring in my combo's.

I'm lost. I've kicked this around in my head for 3 weeks and I'm reaching out to you guys for advice. I am aware this thread has probably been done 50 times and I thank the search police in advance.

So, thoughts anyone?

 

[Strouty]

As far as 3/8" and 1/4" I would get all 6 point, then add 12 point as needed. Once you get to 1/2" I would try 6 point through 1", after that 12 point is fine, it is pretty hard to round over a 1' or bigger fastener. The other thought could be get 12 point in chrome deep and shallow, then get impacts in deep and shallow, they should be 6 point.

 

[airdale]

As far as 3/8" and 1/4" I would get all 6 point, then add 12 point as needed. Once you get to 1/2" I would try 6 point through 1", after that 12 point is fine, it is pretty hard to round over a 1' or bigger fastener. The other thought could be get 12 point in chrome deep and shallow, then get impacts in deep and shallow, they should be 6 point.

x2
You may not really need 12 pt. Look at your vehicles and see if there are any.

 

[djkeev]

If money isn't the problem purchase both 6 & 12 points. I've done that in my 3/8" drive, metric and SAE, deep and shallow. I've filled many Hansen racks.

I know, I know........ I've read the tests and the comments on 12's gripping as well as 6's but I really like 6's none-the-less. But on occasion I need / want 12's for a given task.... I've got them, it's a good thing!

I'm even contemplating getting the universal type sockets as well.... I've got a set of box wrenches with this universal grip design and they've taken off rusty mangled fasteners no other tool was able to grasp.
For example.....
http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do?partNumber=00902496000P

Dave

 

[CWP1616L]

Go with 6pt for metrics and 12pt for SAE.

 

[dsmnickk90]

I run into 12pts a lot. Head rod and main bolts are often 12pt. I have a lot of ARP bolts on my car and they are all 12pt.
I say get both in 3/8" drive and 12pt deep in 1/2" . I honestly would just get metric to start with as well. I rarely use SAE stuff

 

[RBailey]

Most of my collection is 6 point except I have recently had to add a rail of a metric set of 12 point in both 3/8 and 1/2 drives.

I have recently found 12 points on BMW (all over the damn car, including drive line, suspension and engine) and and Jeep.

 

[dsmnickk90]

Most of my collection is 6 point except I have recently had to add a rail of a metric set of 12 point in both 3/8 and 1/2 drives.

I have recently found 12 points on BMW (all over the damn car, including drive line, suspension and engine) and and Jeep.

Ford expeditions CV shafts on 4 wheel drive models are 15mm 12pt. Just did one this weekend.

 

[belvedere]

As far as 3/8" and 1/4" I would get all 6 point, then add 12 point as needed. Once you get to 1/2" I would try 6 point through 1"

this

 

[MattPersman]

Those proto sets seem not very expensive get 6 and 12 point

 

[bcradio]

I'm even contemplating getting the universal type sockets as well.... I've got a set of box wrenches with this universal grip design and they've taken off rusty mangled fasteners no other tool was able to grasp.
For example.....
http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do?partNumber=00902496000P

Dave

I've heard good things about the Craftsman universals. Has anyone tried these? What do you think about them?

Are there any other brands that might be better?

 

[Conductor562]

I kinda like the suggestion of going with 12 pts. in 1/2" drive. The smaller 1/2" stuff is mainly overlap from the larger 3/8" drive sizes anyhow.

 

[03protege]

My setup has 1/4" and 3/8" sockets in 6pt and 1/2" sockets in 12pt. That is not necessarily what I wanted and I was working on replacing the 12 pts with 6 pts but taking out my engine last week I needed one of the 12 pt sockets to allow me to reach the bolt at the right angle.

The fastener was stubborn as a bear and it didn't round off, I am going to give my 12pts a chance.

 

[jaysonb]

For 1/4" drive I only have 6pt. I use 3/8" drive the most, so I have snap on deep and shallow in 6 point, and then I have deep and shallow craftsman 12 point sets if I need 12 point. 1/2" drive chrome are 12 point, and the impacts are 6 point.

 

[ChevyEFI]

You can answer your need in a couple ways.

What 12pt fasteners or tight angle requirements have made you need 12pt in the past? If it's slim to none, get your 6pts and if a 12pt need comes up, buy a cheapie and hide it from yourself so you don't have an OCD stroke-out.

Or, if you seldom have to deal with rounded-off stuff, you could just go 6pt on anything smaller, and start 12pts. at a size you know will maybe come in handy (for me, 1/2" or 5/8" and up possibly) in 1/2" drive and probably be in good shape for years to come.

You'll never have every tool ready for every situation. If you one day have to buy a cheapie for a job, then order a proto to soothe your OCD soul, you're still money ahead over buying everything and anything under the sun "just in case."

 

[General Geoff]

I have 6-point 1/4" stuff, universal "spline" and hex 3/8" stuff, and hex impact/12pt and universal spline chrome 1/2" drive. I also have a cheapo HF 3/4" 12pt socket set that I break out for the occasion that I have a really big fastener that's torqued down to several hundred ft-lbs, usually wheel bearing or harmonic balancer nuts. The way I see it, even a cheap 3/4" tool will withstand far greater torque than an expensive 1/2". So if you have a stubborn fastener, use the biggest drive you have that you can fit. I've never rounded off a fastener larger than 3/4" or 15mm, so it's a safe bet to go with 12 point for bigger stuff, not to mention I've never encountered 12 point fasteners smaller than that.

 

[Conductor562]

Speaking of spline sockets, is anyone using them? Likes and dislikes?

 

[BDT/NWMN]

6 point, 12 point, chrome, impact, swivel, shallow, medium, deepwell, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4,1 inch drives... ProTo, Matco, SnapOn, Craftsman, SK, etc.. ProTo was my choice back in 1970 for six sets of sockets, all 12 point.. Throughout the years, many 6 point and 12 point sets from my above list have been added... Then double everything for metric!!

There are Three questions that you can ask yourself:

What do you want?
What do you need?
Are you "collecting" or working with tools?

Me; I buy what I need.. I would have been up the creek on Tuesday if I didn't have a 3/4"- 3/4"drive 12 point impact socket,,, That socket was too thick to fit in one headbolt recess, so my 3/4" 1/2"drive Proto chrome socket was used with an adapter and a breaker bar for that one bolt.. (all headbolts were loosened with a breaker bar, not an impact) Impact wrench was used to spin loose bolts out... You will not see my
chrome sockets used on an impact..... 3406E Cat engine.... The rest of the truck has a mix of metric and sae, both in 6 point and 12 point.... These are the tools I need.

For you; is it more of a "want" for a "tool collection"?? Nothing wrong with that!!

Not knowing what you work on, I could only suggest picking out that one socket set that you have been drooling over the longest, and buy it... (for now)

A tool box is like a woman's purse... Kind of a personal thing...

If you choose to sell the "extra" tools, I doubt that would be a problem......

I don't have any "extra" tools myself, but this is due to the fact I have worked on everything from Caterpillars to automatic transmissions to electronic fuel control systems.... and I am not a one brand type of tool user..... Some of those "oddball" tools get cut off, welded onto, bent into weird shapes for a specific job.. So for me, it would be best to not sell them..

When you go out to the shop and open your tool box; and you get this happy glowing feeling,,,,, You have been successful. Your tools are an extension of your mind and body!!! Enjoy your tools

 

[theoldwizard1]

It took me over 30 years to complete my set ! All Craftsman, SAE and Metric, 1/4" standard, 3/8" standard and deep, 1/2" standard and deep. All 6 point.

Also SAE and metric 1/2" impact, deep only

Never had a need for deep 1/4".

 

[shoturtle]

I've heard good things about the Craftsman universals. Has anyone tried these? What do you think about them?

Are there any other brands that might be better?

for the price the craftsman work great, the proto spline are better. But much more expensive.

And when using the metric universal form Cmans, it does a nice job on e-torx as well.

Craftsman has the best consumer level spline out there. Allot better then most other that try to skimp and combine sae and metric into on universal socket.

 

[shoturtle]

Speaking of spline sockets, is anyone using them? Likes and dislikes?

High quality spline, Proto. And they work great on allot of different fastener. I am a fan of spline. I used them allot

 

[General Geoff]

Speaking of spline sockets, is anyone using them? Likes and dislikes?

They're very hard to find in a full set these days. SK's 3/8" set is out of production, I snagged one of the last ones a distributor had in stock. But it is complete, and I've used them for several jobs so far without any issues whatsoever. They fit very snugly on 6-point fasteners, I don't think I'll ever round anything with them. My only concern is that since they're out of production, should I ever crack a socket, I don't know if SK will be able to replace it.

I've tried to grab the HF Pittsburgh Pro line of 1/2" drive spline sockets, but they were out of stock on the metric set. Once they come in stock I'll grab two sets of SAE and metric, just in case they go out of production as well.

 

[shoturtle]

If you want a full set of spline sockets, the craftsman fit nicer and have more sizes.

 

[socket_wrench]

for the price the craftsman work great, the proto spline are better. But much more expensive.

And when using the metric universal form Cmans, it does a nice job on e-torx as well.

Craftsman has the best consumer level spline out there. Allot better then most other that try to skimp and combine sae and metric into on universal socket.

Off topic, but my craftsman universal sockets were absolutely worthless on the only external torx i tried them on. In fact, it slightly stripped the head. Bought a Lisle etorx set and was golden.

 

[shoturtle]

did you used the metric or sae. I have used the craftsman on etorx and never had an issue.

 

[bobcatdan]

Personally, I like chrome 12 pt and impact 6 pt.

 

[cide1]

I have both, but in hindsight I would have been fine with just 6 point. There are very few 12 pt (and 4pt) fasteners on the things I work on. 12 pt sockets round off bolts too easily for me.

 

[BFHtime]

What about semi-deep? I figure those should included.

 

[cheechi]

I had a spline something-or-other I had to get off a broken tool, it sat around the garage for a while, and I saw the Kobalt universal wrench sets on the cheaps, picked up both sets. Haven't used one since. Glad they didn't cost a lot. It got the bolt off, but honestly, nothing special. I wouldn't bother buying spline sockets until I had to.

 

[shoturtle]

the kobalt ones are junk, they do not fit either metric or sae correct.

 

[socket_wrench]

did you used the metric or sae. I have used the craftsman on etorx and never had an issue.

it was metric. and on the package it said it would work on the etorx size i needed. ultimately, it did not.

 

[cide1]

I have 3/8 semi deep, they are handy, but I wouldn't start with them if building a set. I started with Craftsman, and didn't realize how many sizes I was missing till I bought trays. I have replaced my most used ones with Snap On, and filled in all the odd sizes with JH Williams. The JH Williams, both American and Taiwanese is great quality, and priced very competitively.

Buying trays really made me want to buy all the sockets to fill them.

 

[dsmnickk90]

I have 3/8 semi deep, they are handy, but I wouldn't start with them if building a set. I started with Craftsman, and didn't realize how many sizes I was missing till I bought trays. I have replaced my most used ones with Snap On, and filled in all the odd sizes with JH Williams. The JH Williams, both American and Taiwanese is great quality, and priced very competitively.

Buying trays really made me want to buy all the sockets to fill them.

Craftsman give you all the sizes you will run into 90% of the time. I liked to fill in the missing sizes too although its not really needed. I covered all sizes up to 36mm and 1-1/2 with Armstrong since they are an exact match with a different name stamped on them.

 

[NC-Fordguy]

My suggestion.......

If you work on any older stuff (cars, trucks, suvs) and being from WV, you will want six point sockets. Time, road salt, mud, etc takes their toll on fasteners. I don't care who makes it, 12 point sockets will round vintage stuff and I have them all--crafty, snappy, wright, proto, gearwrench, S&K, etc etc. Been there and done that too many times

 

[ihateminimumwage]

Personally, I like chrome 12 pt and impact 6 pt.

This is pretty much what I'm doing. Replacing a mishmash of OLD Craftsman, Williams, Wright, Plomb, Proto, etc (ALL 12pt). with new Williams USA (with some Snap-On, Williams Taiwan and Blue Point mixed in).

1/4" drive is all 6pt. 3/8" & 1/2" crome is all 12pt, impact is all 6pt (for now... )

The old stuff will all stay in my home box, new stuff can stay in the shop.

 

[Conductor562]

After hearing everyone's thought's, I may buy all 6 pt and then add a set of 12 pt. in 1/2" drive. On the very rare occasion I find a 12 pt. fastener I always have my combo's.

 

[pilotman81]

I have to agree with Strouty. 12pt deep and shallow chrome and 6pt deep and shallow impacts are the way to go.

 

[03protege]

It took me over 30 years to complete my set ! All Craftsman, SAE and Metric, 1/4" standard, 3/8" standard and deep, 1/2" standard and deep. All 6 point.

Also SAE and metric 1/2" impact, deep only

Never had a need for deep 1/4".

Man, I use my 1/4" deeps all the time!