connect PEX to 1/2" sweat connector

[75gmck25]

Plumbing question - I have a Delta shower valve and an Ox Box washing machine box, and both use threaded supply lines connectors that are described in the documentation as "1/2" sweat" connectors. However, I am using PEX water supply lines.

I threaded a 1/2" PEX to threaded adapter like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...-x-Female-Threaded-Adapter-UC072LFA/202270579 on to the washing machine supply connector, using grey teflon tape, and after tightening it very securely and crimping on the PEX it is holding pressure and not leaking. However, I'm not sure those threaded connections on the valve are FPT (e.g., female NPT?). There is no washer inside these fittings, so they only seal using the threads.

I need to put three more adapters on the shower valve, and that area will be very hard to access once I install the shower enclosure. I don't want to have to open it up later to fix leaks.

Did I use the right kind of adapter? If not, what is the correct type of connection?

Thanks,

Bruce

 

[johninct]

I would put in a plastic access door so you can service it in the future.

 

[Techie1961]

It looks like you did. The description from the shower valves are a little odd though. Not sure why they would describe it as a "1/2" sweat". What it might be is a multi-purpose connector that I have seen (sorry but I don't do residential stuff much) where there is a 1/2" hard copper sweat connection on the ID and the outside is a 1/2" NPT male connection. Can you slide a piece of 1/2" hard copper inside the connection? These types of fittings permit you to either solder in some copper or connect on the outside with NPT threads.

If that is the case, you can use the female connector like you have.

 

[Jackfre]

I re-piped the house with pex. I don't use the crimp style but have the Milwaukee expander tool. On my shower valves and washer valves I ran 12" or so stubs of type L copper out of the 3 connectors and then adapted to pex. I did this to allow me to securely mount the shower valve at the depth and orientation needed. It was a lot easier to secure putting straps on the copper above and below.

 

[Kaizen]

I re-piped the house with pex. I don't use the crimp style but have the Milwaukee expander tool. On my shower valves and washer valves I ran 12" or so stubs of type L copper out of the 3 connectors and then adapted to pex. I did this to allow me to securely mount the shower valve at the depth and orientation needed. It was a lot easier to secure putting straps on the copper above and below.

exactly. on all of my fixtures in my bathroom I used copper as usual out of the fixture and converted to pex so I had straight shots down. found bending the pex even with the thingamajig that holds it in a 90 position a pain

 

[Average_Joe]

They are described as 1/2" sweat because the ID of the threaded fitting will accept 1/2 copper pipe to be soldered in.

Looks like you used the correct adapter

 

[big.jim]

use tap connectors they have a washer seal inside

 

[75gmck25]

I took a look at the connectors again and realized I can sweat (solder) a 1/2" copper pipe inside the fitting. However, I still can't figure out why they have threads on the outside of the fitting.

I have exactly the same setup (solder size inside, threads outside) on my Ox Box for the washing machine, the Delta shower valve, and on a 12" freeze-proof faucet assembly. I'm going to solder onto each fitting and then add a soldered adapter for PEX, since it seems like a better long term solution.

Thanks to everyone for your help and taking time to read through the question.

Bruce

 

[Average_Joe]

The threads are on the outside for more installation options.

 

[scottydosnntkno]

The threads to back to galvanized piping I believe. Easiest way with pex is get a 1/2" MSWT fitting which is a 1/2" OD to 1/2" pex barb adapter. Solder that in and crimp the pex on

 

[jclem40c]

sharkbite, no fuss no muss and you can take them apart later to make changes if the need arises.