Connecting 2x6s to a 4x4 post in a corner

[nexxus007]

I'm building a loft in my garage roughly 5'x10'. I abandoned my earlier plan of using studs due to presence of electrical wires on 2 of the 3 walls. I am now planning on using posts as support in the 4 corners. I will be using 2x6 beams and resting them on 4x4 posts. I have 2 questions:

1. Would it better to notch the posts for the corner connections?
2. If i go the notched route, how should i be attaching the 2x6 to the post?

Thanks!

 

[Jlbc212]

Take a look at the Simpson Wood Construction Connectors catalog for ideas:

https://www.strongtie.com/resources/literature/wood-construction-connectors-catalog

 

[rsanter]

I would notch the post and cross bolt with ties, or place the 2x6s on top conningting with ties

 

[SJay3660]

I would use a 6x6 at the corners then drill and bold the 2x6 to it

 

[nexxus007]

I would notch the post and cross bolt with ties, or place the 2x6s on top conningting with ties

What kind of ties?

 

[nexxus007]

I would use a 6x6 at the corners then drill and bold the 2x6 to it

Wouldn't a 6x6 be overkill?

 

[firebirdparts]

It is, but it looks good notched. You can notch the 4x4’s just fine on one side, if you do, fasteners won’t matter much. Anything reasonable.

 

[matt_i]

However you proceed, some consideration should be given to a tall leggy framework that's just set barely inside the main structure, and has no moment-bearing at the bottom of the posts.

Somehow you should connect, wedge, or fasten your deck to the existing structure, short and direct as possible, and as close as possible to the plane of the deck. Bonus points for anywhere you can triangulate underneath, the connection between the legs to the deck.

 

[nexxus007]

It is, but it looks good notched. You can notch the 4x4’s just fine on one side, if you do, fasteners won’t matter much. Anything reasonable.

If i don't decide to notch, what are my options?

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[nexxus007]

However you proceed, some consideration should be given to a tall leggy framework that's just set barely inside the main structure, and has no moment-bearing at the bottom of the posts.

Somehow you should connect, wedge, or fasten your deck to the existing structure, short and direct as possible, and as close as possible to the plane of the deck. Bonus points for anywhere you can triangulate underneath, the connection between the legs to the deck.

Bit its not a deck, its a loft in a garage

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[txvwnut]

If you are just attaching one 2by to the 4by then a notch with lag or carriage bolts should suffice. If you are wanting to use the 4by in a corner there won’t be enough meat left after notching for 2 2by’s to attach anything to. 6by’s in the corners and 4by’s if you need support in the middle.

 

[nexxus007]

If you are just attaching one 2by to the 4by then a notch with lag or carriage bolts should suffice. If you are wanting to use the 4by in a corner there won’t be enough meat left after notching for 2 2by’s to attach anything to. 6by’s in the corners and 4by’s if you need support in the middle.

I want to avoid notching the posts as i lack the skills and the machines sadly... What options am i left with?

 

[madhatter]

just use the metal hardware sold for attaching boards to other boards/beams, such as joist hangers and such. (as mentioned above) Lowes and Home Depot both sell them.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/joist%20hangers?NCNI-5

Pick the hardware appropriate to your usage.

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, there are no equals to Simpson connectors.

 

[Dustball]

I'm building a loft in my garage roughly 5'x10'.

Thanks!

Is your garage 10 feet wide and your loft is going to be 5 feet deep?

 

[firebirdparts]

If i don't decide to notch, what are my options?

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I would bolt all the way through with 1/2" bolts. People frown on that for floor construction, but it's not that bad.

 

[CraigStu]

Look into the hardware sold for building pergolas.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/725042...5458&msclkid=ead23e7c87b01f267e5c619bbc3d356a
These popped up in a quick search but look uncoated for interior use. There is a display of similar outdoor stuff at Lowes and HD

 

[Marctrees]

Rabbeting posts -"Notching"

VERY simple

Set circular saw to desired depth - "Beams" do NOT need to be fully inset, just on a partial step, like maybe 1" on a 6x6.

Layout and cut the bearing seat ACCURATELY, then randomly keep making full depth cuts like every inch.... Then chisel, like a 1 1/2" or what you have the waste off to the bottom of cuts

A wider chisel, like 2" makes final cleanup easier..

Cleanup while checking w combo square or similar.

Voila ! done.

Pin w long Deck screws when assembling, after all is final checked for square, plumb, etc. then follow up w a few through bolts/ wash/ nuts.

So easy, even a Caveman can do it.

Keep in mind your slab will not be perfectly level, so do not gauge your seat heights by just measuring from floor.

Use an accurate 4' level and a tested perfect straightedge easy to handle 1x3 or something between posts.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

No hardware needed for posts other than 1/2 long bolts, and probably common Joist hangers otherwise.

Use J hangers as high as your joists permit, not the tiny "2x4" ones.

Marc

 

[Kaizen]

Posts seem overkill. A double 2x10 should bridge that easily. Why are you not attaching to walls? Doubt you have electric where you want this. Did you open the wall as instructed?
Time to learn, get tools, and get into it.
Pics of space you want this might help


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[Marctrees]

True, one corner post is adequate now that I look and see you just want 5x10.

BUT I would use one 2x8, or double 2x6 for the 10' side.

Also, being primary beams, choose your "beam" lumber not to have large knots in their lower portions.

IF your loading will be heavy, also use one 2x6 for the 5' beam.

2x6's for the inner joists, but still try to not have large knots in lower portions.

And put any "Crown" up.

These things mean you need to select your lumber when you shop.

"1/2" ply BC or CDX decking will be fine as long as you run the facegrain ACROSS the joists, NOT parallel.

24 OC is sufficient, or for a few bucks more 16" oc if it makes you feel better.

Stagger the sheets of course.

Marc

 

[DpSyChO]

Sounds like a good candidate for pallet racking?

 

[CraigStu]

The OP would rather not open the wall. So, rather than continually telling him to do it our way, let's help him do it the way he prefers.

 

[dg57]

I want to avoid notching the posts as i lack the skills and the machines sadly... What options am i left with?

If you lack the skills and tools to do a simple post notch, I would reconsider tackling this project by yourself. This may be a time to partner with someone to teach you the basics.

 

[dg57]

The OP would rather not open the wall. So, rather than continually telling him to do it our way, let's help him do it the way he prefers.

The OP appears pretty inexperienced and is it tempting to put too much up on lofts. There is a significant risk to the OP or next owner if the structure is not sufficiently attached and then overloaded.

 

[Busted Knucles]

And you experts were born with the experience and knowledge to build a loft? The guy is asking for advice on how to build his loft, not what his capabilities are.

 

[jkuro]

Cut the wall open see what you have and quit screwing around. Drywall is cheap and when you fix it you will have acquired a new skill.

 

[Kaizen]

The OP would rather not open the wall. So, rather than continually telling him to do it our way, let's help him do it the way he prefers.

This is the problem and short of his inexperience and fear I see no reason why he can’t. If this is a freestanding loft that is only touching two walls it will be far better to have it structural screwed to the two walls.
Sometimes we need to push to have it done right. Doing this with 4 freestanding posts is just dumb


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[couch67]

This is the problem and short of his inexperience and fear I see no reason why he can’t. If this is a freestanding loft that is only touching two walls it will be far better to have it structural screwed to the two walls.
Sometimes we need to push to have it done right. Doing this with 4 freestanding posts is just dumb

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I have to agree, cutting the drywall to allow good attachment of headers on both sides is the recommended way to go. You can confirm where wiring is that way, and the structure will be simpler to build. This will tie in the walls that much better as well.

 

[firebirdparts]

No hardware needed for posts other than 1/2 long bolts, and probably common Joist hangers otherwise.

Use J hangers as high as your joists permit, not the tiny "2x4" ones.

Marc

I agree totally if you really meant long half inch bolts.

I’ll just add for stability you’re going to be very happy putting a couple screws through this rig onto the wall. Maybe you can choose to put them on a spot where you’re really sure there’s no power. Power is usually running through studs only at the level where receptacles and switches are, and vertically beside the stud where receptacles and switches are, but of course I can’t promise.

 

[Cougar]

Could use two 2x6's screwed together, for posts.
Leave one 5-1/2" short, set your beam on that.
Attach with construction screws.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

I'm building a loft in my garage roughly 5'x10'. I abandoned my earlier plan of using studs due to presence of electrical wires on 2 of the 3 walls. I am now planning on using posts as support in the 4 corners. I will be using 2x6 beams and resting them on 4x4 posts. I have 2 questions:

1. Would it better to notch the posts for the corner connections?
2. If i go the notched route, how should i be attaching the 2x6 to the post?

Thanks!

Since you left out a lot of pertinent information...

I highly recommend you follow the DCA6 Guidelines for deck building. Though you insist that you’re not building “a deck”; the structure of a mezzanine (free-standing) is just like building a deck- whether it’s free-standing or not.

 

[gagecalman]

Why don't you post a few pics so we will better understand what you're working with?
What are you planning on putting on this loft?

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I'm building a loft in my garage roughly 5'x10'. I abandoned my earlier plan of using studs due to presence of electrical wires on 2 of the 3 walls. I am now planning on using posts as support in the 4 corners. I will be using 2x6 beams and resting them on 4x4 posts. I have 2 questions:

1. Would it better to notch the posts for the corner connections?
2. If i go the notched route, how should i be attaching the 2x6 to the post?

Thanks!

Congratulations on your ambition! When you speak of a 5 by 10 area with walls on 3 sides, is this a U-shaped area off your garage? What is the total height from floor to ceiling in the area? How high off your existing floor will the desired platform be? I suspect that, like me, most on here equate the term "loft" with an area that will have people walking on it. Is this really just a storage platform? Do you have an idea of how much weight you might be placing on this platform? Do you have access to the attic above this area?

Years ago, in my first house, I had a similar sized area off the front end of my garage. The concrete floor in this area was about 4" higher than where the cars parked. Due to the size of cars and garage, this was the only place I could put my toolboxes and workbench. To gain more storage, I built a super-sized cabinet about 10 foot wide, 3 feet tall and 3 feet deep. It was not supported by posts. I used stout threaded rods that went through the ceiling and through 2by stock that spanned multiple rafters.

 

[CraigStu]

Could use two 2x6's screwed together, for posts.
Leave one 5-1/2" short, set your beam on that.
Attach with construction screws.

An excellent idea. Heck, for a few extra $ he could get these cut to length at HD or Lowes so no need to even cut them.