Connecting 6/3 UF Flat wire?

[Mikey7874]

Hello,

We have flat 6/3 UF wire that we will be putting in the ground for about a 400 ft run to a pump for irrigation purposes. There is actually a control box at the pump that is already wired to the pump and a control box at the house that is wired to the electrical panel. We went with 6/3 wire for the voltage drop but as you know the flat wire is about 1 inch wide and the control boxes do not have 1 1/2 inch knockouts for the conduit.

So we are trying to figure out the best way to go about this. So far the best we've come up with is putting junction boxes near both control boxes and downsize the 6 gauge wire to something like 10 and then run it in smaller conduit into the control boxes. The control boxes have poles (see attached image) that we can simply connect female connectors to.

1st question - is this the best route to take or is there something we haven't thought of yet?

2nd question - If this is the best route we are having trouble finding connectors to downsize the 6 gauge wire to 10. What is the best way to do this?

Thanks for any help.

 

[ishiboo]

So drill larger holes in the control boxes. Use PVC conduit where it leaves the ground.

 

[Mikey7874]

So drill larger holes in the control boxes. Use PVC conduit where it leaves the ground.

LOL never thought about that, figured we had to use the knockouts. I knew your could drill holes in J boxes that had no holes for this purpose but didn't think beyond that.

Do they make 6 gauge female connectors to put onto the poles? I'm having trouble finding some. Thanks

 

[dw1]

I cant tell from your pic, but are there screws in there now on the lugs? can you remove them and install a # 6 mechanical lug
http://store.cableorganizer.com/p-4...utm_term=1100502530106&utm_content=Product Ad

That's just a reference pic, you should be able to find them cheap.

Here is a better reference:
http://www.alliedelec.com/thomas-be...=30980760979&gclid=CIKMttCC_M4CFcRkhgodCq0PMg

 

[matt_i]

I would look for a copper lug or a tin plated copper lug if possible, saves on the NoAlOx, just feel like its better ampacity.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

What is the HP rating on thr motor?

 

[Norcal]

You should have a disconnect & any decent disco should handle 6 AWG.

 

[Aceman]

I would HIGHLY recommend pvc conduit and wire rather than direct bury cable.

 

[Mikey7874]

What is the HP rating on thr motor?

3 HP motor with 17amps on the nameplate, why?

You should have a disconnect & any decent disco should handle 6 AWG.

I should have one on there already or I should be getting one? The ones in the store are smaller and say they are only for certain gauge wires.

I would HIGHLY recommend pvc conduit and wire rather than direct bury cable.

Personal reasons or why would you recommend this? The run is along a part of the property in no danger of being dug up and I'll be putting electrical tape down in case 100 years from now someone after me decided they wanted to try and dig where the cable will be. Another question would be seeing there is nothing to attached the conduit to, wouldn't I just have to bury the conduit too? So now I have the hassle of pulling 400ft of wire through conduit on top of the trenching.

 

[Mikey7874]

I would look for a copper lug or a tin plated copper lug if possible, saves on the NoAlOx, just feel like its better ampacity.

The lug idea looks good but maybe I used the wrong terminology. On the controller they are not poles like a battery terminal, but more like the attached picture for a female disconnect to go on. That's why I was trying to find a 6awg female disconnect to put on it.

 

[Norcal]

A disconnect is required, conduit is cheap insurance compared to UF cable which I avoid like a rattlesnake.

 

[Aceman]

why would you recommend this?

Because I do this for a living, just like Norcal, who also avoids direct bury cable it seems. The reality is, direct bury cable goes bad, eventually. It doesn't seem to be a matter of "if" but "when". Conduit and wire is more reliable and gives you the option to repull wire should it ever go bad. UF cable going bad means paying an electrician to locate and repair the fault, or at worst case, dig a whole new ditch and lay new wire.

Most folks from what I've seen when they go cheap will try UF, then when it goes bad down the road, usually RE-dig a ditch and then lay conduit instead saying that should of done it that way in the first place.

The run is along a part of the property in no danger of being dug up and I'll be putting electrical tape down in case 100 years from now someone after me decided they wanted to try and dig where the cable will be. Another question would be seeing there is nothing to attached the conduit to, wouldn't I just have to bury the conduit too? So now I have the hassle of pulling 400ft of wire through conduit on top of the trenching.

I've never needed to run UF because I couldn't find a way to run conduit.

 

[walrus]

If its backfilled in sand, 6 inches under, 6inches over, I think UF will last but if there is a nick in outside insulation, all best are off. If conduit run is 400 ft I'd want it oversized and even then there is no guarantee you'll be able to pull bad wires out if it you need to down the road

 

[wyliesdiesels]

3 HP motor with 17amps on the nameplate, why?

Was curious what the voltage drop would be.

While the voltage drop will be acceptable for the running current, the motor may have trouble on startup due to excessive voltage drop at that distance.

In rush current can be 4x-8x FLA...