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Connecting #8 stranded aluminum wire

aluebcke

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What are approved devices to make the connection? I can't find any wire nuts approved for this use.

I have a builtin hardwired oven that is fed with #8 stranded aluminum and oven connections are also stranded aluminum wire. The house is 1.5 years old. Connections were made with normal wire nuts. I lost one leg of the oven feed and when I looked I found a burned connection/wirenut. I'm trying to find the correct method for doing the connection.
 
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cgrutt

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Not an electrician so maybe somebody else can comment but I've always understood its beneficial to add some anti-oxidizing compound to aluminum connections. Lowe's carries it by the electrical connections Ideal Noalox IIRC.
 

mike93lx

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Not an electrician so maybe somebody else can comment but I've always understood its beneficial to add some anti-oxidizing compound to aluminum connections. Lowe's carries it by the electrical connections Ideal Noalox IIRC.
Noalox is needed when the wire manufacturer calls for it. With modern alloys, it's not needed, but barring that confirmation, it would be prudent
 

rlitman

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Split bolts may be the better choice if the oven has finely stranded conductors.......from the Polaris product spec:
I wouldn't put fine stranded wire under a screw, but split bolts aren't much better. If the oven truly does have fine stranded wire, and if it's tinned copper, I'd put it in a bootlace ferrule before inserting into the Polaris connector. If it's fine stranded aluminum, um, well just toss it out.
 

kngelv

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Pictures would help immensely. I would go the ferrule route if you are using fine strand. Dielectric grease is mainly to prevent oxidation with dissimilar metals. I would still use it because it's cheap insurance and can't hurt. There are other connectors I would use over split-bolts but again I think pictures are needed for good advice

James
 

manwithtools

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brand and model of oven?

I would put a cord and plug on it and install a receptacle in the wall to get rid of the splices
How does that solve the connection problem if the oven has conductors and no terminals as the OP seems to be describing.

I'll admit that seems odd, but let's see what the OP says.
 

mm08822

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How does that solve the connection problem if the oven has conductors and no terminals as the OP seems to be describing.

I'll admit that seems odd, but let's see what the OP says.
As suggested, let's start with the mfr's requirements. If their requirements have been hacked then that's another story and on to damage control.
 

wyliesdiesels

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How does that solve the connection problem if the oven has conductors and no terminals as the OP seems to be describing.

I'll admit that seems odd, but let's see what the OP says.
because we have no clue if the appliance is in the same setup as it came from the factory. entirely possible someone hacked it up
 

Bert_

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Every single built-in oven I've ever seen has a short piece of flexible metal conduit with some sort of high temperature conductors inside.

The whip is long enough that you can wire it to a junction box in the back of the cabinet and then slide the oven in.
 
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aluebcke

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The power connection is made in a metal box in the mounted in the oven cabinet just above the microwave. It's a builtin microwave/oven combination. For whatever reason box was installed in that position in the cabinet when the kitchen cabinets were done. Installation hasn't been touched since the house was built.

I'm not aware of any wire nuts approved for use with aluminum wire, particularly larger gauges like the #8 I have. If they are out there I'd appreciate someone pointing me to a source. Right now it looks like I'll be buying 4 polaris connectors and trying to fit them into the box. Smaller connectors would be nice.
 

mike93lx

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The power connection is made in a metal box in the mounted in the oven cabinet just above the microwave. It's a builtin microwave/oven combination. For whatever reason box was installed in that position in the cabinet when the kitchen cabinets were done. Installation hasn't been touched since the house was built.

I'm not aware of any wire nuts approved for use with aluminum wire, particularly larger gauges like the #8 I have. If they are out there I'd appreciate someone pointing me to a source. Right now it looks like I'll be buying 4 polaris connectors and trying to fit them into the box. Smaller connectors would be nice.
You're going to need a bigger box

1761904147146.jpeg
 

cannuck

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Use Polaris connectors or a copper/aluminum split bolt and tape.

The wires from the oven are most likely tinned copper vs aluminum.
As I must always do, I will lead with me not being an electrical guy, so a lot of gaps in my experience once we do things off the MCM and down into AWG sizes. So, forgive what may be really stupid questions.

Is there actually such a thing as fine stranded aluminum 8 gauge? Can't say I encountered very much Al at all on LV side, but mostly industrial so nobody compromising. Shouldn't the OP be able to clip a single strand and be able to see Cu under tinning?
 

mike93lx

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As I must always do, I will lead with me not being an electrical guy, so a lot of gaps in my experience once we do things off the MCM and down into AWG sizes. So, forgive what may be really stupid questions.

Is there actually such a thing as fine stranded aluminum 8 gauge? Can't say I encountered very much Al at all on LV side, but mostly industrial so nobody compromising. Shouldn't the OP be able to clip a single strand and be able to see Cu under tinning?
Find stranded aluminum does exist for low voltage (automotive wiring) and is usually (always?) copper coated, so it looks like copper wire but is definitely not. It will be labeled CCA (copper clad aluminum).

No idea if fine stranded aluminum exists otherwise. I think the speculation that this is tinned copper is makes sense

Lots of tinned wire options out there...
 
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cgrutt

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As I must always do, I will lead with me not being an electrical guy, so a lot of gaps in my experience once we do things off the MCM and down into AWG sizes. So, forgive what may be really stupid questions.

Is there actually such a thing as fine stranded aluminum 8 gauge? Can't say I encountered very much Al at all on LV side, but mostly industrial so nobody compromising. Shouldn't the OP be able to clip a single strand and be able to see Cu under tinning?


Did OP actually say it was "fine" stranded aluminum? Lots of of 8 GA stranded aluminum. My gut tells me aluminum is likely due to the fact that a leg burnt out under wire nut after 1-1/2 years but just a hunch.
 

mm08822

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The power connection is made in a metal box in the mounted in the oven cabinet just above the microwave. It's a builtin microwave/oven combination. For whatever reason box was installed in that position in the cabinet when the kitchen cabinets were done. Installation hasn't been touched since the house was built.

I'm not aware of any wire nuts approved for use with aluminum wire, particularly larger gauges like the #8 I have. If they are out there I'd appreciate someone pointing me to a source. Right now it looks like I'll be buying 4 polaris connectors and trying to fit them into the box. Smaller connectors would be nice.
Use the split bolt 🔩 connectors at about a 1/4 of the size of the Polaris connectors.
Polaris connectors were not recommended for fine stranded conductors, see spec in post 6.

I think the entire thread is sideways b/c of "stranded" conductors.
The building wiring is probably just 7 strands while the appliance internal wiring is likely 19 or 33 strands of high temp tinned copper wire.

The split bolts are rated for cu/al connections. Use rubber tape over the split bolts then follow with a wrap of vinyl tape.

Post a pic of this j box and conductors.

Edit: doublecheck for CU/AL rating first. Not sure all brands are.
1761954116240.png
 
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Norcal

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As I must always do, I will lead with me not being an electrical guy, so a lot of gaps in my experience once we do things off the MCM and down into AWG sizes. So, forgive what may be really stupid questions.

Is there actually such a thing as fine stranded aluminum 8 gauge? Can't say I encountered very much Al at all on LV side, but mostly industrial so nobody compromising. Shouldn't the OP be able to clip a single strand and be able to see Cu under tinning?
I have only seen fine stranded AL once & it was aircraft cable, I scrapped it.
 
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aluebcke

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Yes one of the connections overheated/failed. Fortunately one of the hot sides so I didn't have issues with floating neutral. I didn't know that split bolt connectors were dual rated, that sounds like a solution. Better than a wire nut anyway. I can put an extension on the box to get more room. South Main Auto youtube channel shows a neat trick with wrapping tape one wire in confined space. First do a wrap onto a small socket and then use the wrapped socket as the tape roll.
Thanks
 

mike93lx

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Yes one of the connections overheated/failed. Fortunately one of the hot sides so I didn't have issues with floating neutral. I didn't know that split bolt connectors were dual rated, that sounds like a solution. Better than a wire nut anyway. I can put an extension on the box to get more room. South Main Auto youtube channel shows a neat trick with wrapping tape one wire in confined space. First do a wrap onto a small socket and then use the wrapped socket as the tape roll.
Thanks
All the questions on the appliance and wire, but no response?
 

Higgins

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Yes one of the connections overheated/failed. Fortunately one of the hot sides so I didn't have issues with floating neutral. I didn't know that split bolt connectors were dual rated, that sounds like a solution. Better than a wire nut anyway. I can put an extension on the box to get more room. South Main Auto youtube channel shows a neat trick with wrapping tape one wire in confined space. First do a wrap onto a small socket and then use the wrapped socket as the tape roll.
Thanks
Ya, I love Eric and some of his advice !!
 
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