Connecting compressor pump to tank check valve.

[DezRanger]

So I'm building a frankenstein compressor more or less and need help plumbing my new pump to my check valve in the tank. My original plan was to use a braided steel hose from the pump an run it around under the motor platform and connect it to the check valve into a 90*. Well the 90* was higher then the platform and now that wont work. So now im thinking of using a 45* on the check valve (like the pic) and using a shorter line which is less $$ then my original plan but now I run into bend radius issue So what should be my next plan of attack? soft copper and change out all my fittings to compression?

 

[The Cobbler]

how about making a loop with either soft copper or your original plan of braided hose so the radius won't be an issue

 

[DezRanger]

Well thats the thing, if i loop the hose with the current setup, turning the 45* to the left towards the motor more is something like a 3" radius and McMaster carr sells a 4 3/8" radius on a 1/2" line, tightest I can find, unless im over thinking this

 

[zkling]

How about just forget the 45° and 90° and get a piece of tubing/hose with loop to go between?

 

[john8791]

So I'm building a frankenstein compressor more or less and need help plumbing my new pump to my check valve in the tank. My original plan was to use a braided steel hose from the pump an run it around under the motor platform and connect it to the check valve into a 90*. Well the 90* was higher then the platform and now that wont work. So now im thinking of using a 45* on the check valve (like the pic) and using a shorter line which is less $$ then my original plan but now I run into bend radius issue So what should be my next plan of attack? soft copper and change out all my fittings to compression?

With compressors we mount in RV's for suspension air we use 3/8" Teflon hose in to ferrule fittings. I've seen standard hose burst from the heat generated right out of the compressor.

 

[DezRanger]

Zkling: I guess I could look into having a line made locally, I was just looking online at braided compressor pump discharge lines and shortest I've seen is 12" which I'd run into issues (bend radius) with having such a short distance.

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[Fixnair]

I wouldn't use Teflon hose there. It would kink with that tight of a radius plus it won't stand up to the heat. A SS bellows would stand the heat but won't handle the radius either.
Try this, remove the discharge manifold and see if there are pipe threads in the head. Very often there are. You would be sacrificing a small amount of heat rejection though but not a lot. You probably wouldn't even notice it. As an aftercooler that thing is pitifully small.

Looking at your pic again, if you rotated the street ell at the compressor outlet so it points to the inlet of the tank, remove the 45 from the tank you would have room for a SS bellows type of hose. If you have a hose shop where you live they can usually custom make any configuration you want. Those fittings look like 3/4 pipe. Have then make a hose with 3/4 male pipe on one end to fit into the tank. Make a 3/4 JIC swivel to fig onto the compressor. That should work.

 

[mayday0017]

There are several options here from using copper, using flex, or using the steel pipe you started with. Things just need to be cut to length and put together. Flex or Copper would be the most direct path, but steel pipe would have more surface area thus cooling the air some.

Personally I would consider tossing another $75-100 at the project and put an after cooler setup on it and have a much better unit when done.

 

[DezRanger]

Just a update, ended up buying a braided stainless line off eBay.

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[The Cobbler]

tks for the update