Connecting Light Fixture Housings Together

[bottom feeder]

My garage is nearing completion and the plan is to install hard-wired 4ft twin tube light fixtures that will be connected end-to-end with little or no gap between the fixtures. The light fixtures have knock-outs on the ends to facilitate this.

My question is: is there a short coupling available that is used to physically connect the fixtures together (via the wiring knock-outs) and to allow the wire to pass through? Or, do you simply mount the fixtures to the ceiling so that the ends **** into each other and use a standard threaded metal wire connector/clamp like this to span between the housings with the clamp on one side and the nut on the other?

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

 

[Bert_]

Most either have row mount kits or the end cap can be turned and used for the row mount kits.

If that's not the case a chase ****** works better than the Romex connector.

 

[sparky 1971]

If they are the old florescent strip light style, the end caps can be used as couplings. Instead of the cap covering the end, there will be two "slots" on the bottom side of the fixture top. The end cap will slide into the slots with a stop when it is half way in. The other half of the end cap will now be sticking out of the fixture for the next fixture to slide in. If the fixtures don't have the provisions for this, you will have to buy/make *******.

What you posted won't work very well, there may not be enough thread length. If you have to ****** the fixtures together, you will want 1/2" chase or close *******. Warning: it's a pita to get the locknuts on the fixtures when they mounted to the ceiling, at least for my 2XL hands. I would suggest using emt. You can put the connectors on the fixtures while they are still on the ground, then cut pieces to ****** the lights together. This method may leave the lights about 2 to 2-1/2" apart, but save a lot of cussing and possible bleeding.



Posting a picture of your fixtures could help.

Edit: Bert posted his while I was typing mine. What he said.

 

[bottom feeder]

Thank you for the replies. I should have noted that I haven't purchased the fixtures yet. I have been strongly considering the Maxlite fixture in Platonic Solid's "The Best Light Fixture Ever" thread. However, the end caps on that one appear to be pop-riveted in place. Upon further review I see that the other fixture he lists as an alternate does indeed have the removable end caps and is designed so multiple fixtures can be connected together, so that fixture would be a better choice for my situation. Thanks again!

 

[Platonic Solid]

bottom feeder - You don't want to remove the end housing. You just pop the knockout on both fixtures - line them up end to end - and put a chase ****** or standard connector like you linked to originally.

​

We're talking 2 thickness of sheetmetal here. Either connector will work just fine.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Chase ******* distort the ends of the housing (by pulling them closer together)
You need a little bit of space between them. Thus the box connector....
https://www.gordonelectricsupply.co...MIzpvujL256QIVUPDACh1BFwUrEAQYBCABEgIX5PD_BwE

The Romex connector shown is as unsuitable as using an EMT or flex connector. Don't use it!

 

[Bert_]

bottom feeder - You don't want to remove the end housing. You just pop the knockout on both fixtures - line them up end to end - and put a chase ****** or standard connector like you linked to originally.

​

We're talking 2 thickness of sheetmetal here. Either connector will work just fine.

On a lot of fixtures you DO want to remove the end housing. That plate, or one available separately, can be used to connect the fixtures together so that the channel continues unobstructed the whole length of the row.

In a residential garage this probably isn't a big deal. Most likely you're only going to have one circuit in the row of fixtures. It makes a bigger difference in commercial situations where you might have many circuits and wires running through a fixture channel. Having to go through a bunch of chase ******* can be a pain when you have 6 or 10 wires running through 100+ feet of lights.

 

[Platonic Solid]

On a lot of fixtures you DO want to remove the end housing. That plate, or one available separately, can be used to connect the fixtures together so that the channel continues unobstructed the whole length of the row.

Agreed. This is how they make 8ft fixtures. Sure, you can use that feature to make it continuous and not need any chase ******* - The PLT strip housing works that way (link).

As bottom feeder pointed out, you cannot remove the end of the Maxlite housing. FWIW, The Maxlite strip housing is thicker sheetmetal than average and is painted post fabrication = no sharp edges.

 

[Shiftless]

You can use chase ******* or these box connectors. I already had a few of these laying around so I used them for connecting lights.

 

[bottom feeder]

Thank you all for the additional info.

Platonic Solid - for what it's worth, it appears that the PLT-10916 fixture may not be available anymore?? There is a variant with the model # PLT-20014 (link) that appears to be very similar though.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Here's one that states: "End plate doubles as coupler for continuous row mounts."

 

[sparky 1971]

bottom feeder - You don't want to remove the end housing. You just pop the knockout on both fixtures - line them up end to end - and put a chase ****** or standard connector like you linked to originally.

​

We're talking 2 thickness of sheetmetal here. Either connector will work just fine.

It's a pain in the **** to get the locknuts on. An even bigger pain to get them tight. I cannot get my finger and thumb up there to get the nut on. I wind up having to use my first two fingers. After about four fixtures my shoulders start burning. Then I get grumpy...er. I forgot all about the box connectors. At least with those, it can get put on one fixture before it goes on the ceiling. Then the little ******* will hold still while the nut gets put on the other end. If I were the one buying the fixtures, they would definitely have the removable end cap/coupling.

 

[Platonic Solid]

sparky 1971 - Good point. I didn't consider the PITA factor.