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Considering a S-o 5-position Ratcheting Screwdriver

Which Driver?

  • Ratcheting T Handle

    Votes: 9 50.0%
  • 5-positioning Ratcheting Handle

    Votes: 8 44.4%
  • Something Else - See My Post

    Votes: 1 5.6%

  • Total voters
    18

Bolster

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Jul 8, 2008
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Location
Mexifornia
I need a ratcheting driver I can really haul down on, hard, to keep the tip from camming out. Will be used for driving and loosening screws, often rusty or paint-encrusted. I am trying to decide between a S-o T-handle ratcheting driver, and a 5-position ratcheting soft-grip driver. If you were to get one or the other, which?

The T-handle would allow for maximum pressure onto the screw, but it's harder (actually quite difficult) to twist quickly when the screw or bolt is loose.

I imagine the 5-position could be switched from inline (for fast spinning) to 60 degrees (for applying lots of pressure) but I've never played with one, maybe it's just a gimmick.

Would you recommend either of these, or yet a different option?

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...4&group_ID=706&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=19796&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
 
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Bolster

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PS: I've already tried and returned the GearWrench Ratcheting Screwdriver/T-handle combo set. Didn't like how the reversing switch was opposite of what was intuitive. I like how the S-o ratchet is set up, so you twist the collar in the direction you want to go.
 

wreckercologist

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May 17, 2009
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cyber-tool hell
I use the hell out of my "T" handles everyday. One of the best Snap-on tools ever made IMO.

All you need to do is clean 'em and relube every once in a while.

:beer:
 
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Bolster

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I have the regular and the 5 position. I prefer the electric one....

If I have to choose one of the first two, I usually grab the 5 position.

You mean, between the regular soft handle ratcheting driver and the 5-position? Or do you mean between the T-handle and the 5-position?

You pretty happy with your 5-position, it's not just a gimmick? (Provided you're twisting by hand--I assume you've got one of those 12v drivers or something for electrified driving?)
 

I can fix anything

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Aug 14, 2010
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TeXaS
I used my new ratcheting gearwrench set yesterday. I put it to the test. I turned out a bolt that was very tight halfway through i stopped and another guy took over. I thought at any second it would break but it never gave i was impressed.
You could also bet on the snap on ones to be tough for sure.
 

MrMark

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Jan 25, 2010
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Wow, tough question. Seems you have a lot of painted screws! I have both of the SO tools. The ratcheting T handle (although it has a 1/4" square drive) and the ratcheting 5 position and I also have the 1/4 square drive for that to make it into a nut driver if I want. Boy, those two are BEAUTIFUL tools. They are the tool lovers dream. I almost hate to use them they are so nice, but I'm real careful with my nice stuff and only work on my own stuff. No, "get r done" for me. For me its: let's get this done right no matter how long it takes. Enough of my aside,

I would get the . . . . . . . . .






5 position. It's ACR bit is the best in the biz. Try the short nose bit too. It seems great.
 

MattT

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Joined
Feb 20, 2010
Messages
3,201
T Handle....easier to control the balance of axial force and stay on the head of the screw.

The T handles are easy to keep square while applying pressure. Haven't tried one of those 5 position things but the force will be off centerline when you lean on one.

FWIW if the screws are that tough I'll bust them loose with an impact driver if space allowed it's use. Then depending on how many fasteners I'm dealing with I'll either use the impact as a screwdriver or switch to a cordless driver to spin them out.
 

MrMark

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Yes, the impact drivers, either hand or battery are the best for this painted screw thing. The hand driver is probably the better of the two. It will give it a real great initial shock. If it's coming out without drilling, then one of those two methods will be the way it came out.
 
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GeorgiaHybrid

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Sep 9, 2008
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Extreme NW Georgia
You mean, between the regular soft handle ratcheting driver and the 5-position? Or do you mean between the T-handle and the 5-position?

You pretty happy with your 5-position, it's not just a gimmick? (Provided you're twisting by hand--I assume you've got one of those 12v drivers or something for electrified driving?)

The "T" handle keeps the torque centered but does not have a long enough lever arm to break some fasteners loose. The 5 position will not apply even force on the screw and needs to be watched but allows the use of a longer lever arm to break them loose.

It gets down to what you prefer. I happen to like the 5 position although I find myself only using two of the positions. For a stubborn screw, use an impact driver.
 

J.A.F.E.

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Sep 25, 2008
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Formerly Area 49 now Area 52
I have both and like both. The only quirky thing about the 5 position is it is easy to hit the release with your thumb if you're right handed and accidentally change the position. You can get different shanks for it and use it as a nut driver with the 1/4 drive adapter, long shank, or dedicated screw driver shanks.

The T is nice but as delivered from SO will not interchange shanks. The shank is held in with a speed nut that can be removed if you open the driver. Then you can interchange the shanks. The guts are the same between the two. Really the same guts are used in all the SO ratchet drivers including the hard handle. Incidentally, the Williams T driver mentioned are the same driver with the same guts as the SO.

I think it really comes down to personal preference. I'd probably give the 5 position a slight edge because it's a traditional driver, the handle will store bits and the cap will hold a bit so you can use it in really tight spots as a microdriver.
 

dankicksass

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Jul 28, 2010
Messages
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New Jersey
If you didn't like the feel of the GW, you probably won't like the SO at 4x the price. The contour is nearly identical in the handle. But you already know that...

I like the idea of the 5-position ratchet driver, I'd been eyeing a Wera fixed-position driver that mimics the max-lock at 60deg of the Snap-On you're looking at before the GW sale last month blew my "want-it" tool budget. Can't justify it to myself now.
 

Sterff

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Feb 8, 2010
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PA
I have had great luck with my Snap-on t-handle and pistol grip drivers.
 
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Bolster

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Thanks for the excellent discussion so far. MrMark notices that I have ongoing troubles with painted screws. Probably requires explanation: I do a lot of house rehab work. Old houses are filled with painted-over screws (hinges, outlets, etc) and this is the area I seem to experience "tool failure" the most, so I'm motivated to find a good solution.

OFTEN these screws are in locations that won't allow a power tool. You often have a narrow angle of approach. OFTEN putting a power driver on the tool gives you a bigger chance of camming out and destroying the screw head with the rapidly rotating bit. OFTEN an impact driver solution can't be used due to the weakness of the wood behind the bit. Getting out old screws from old wood is like surgery.

My current method is to pick the paint out of the screwhead as much as I can (slow, frustrating) and then go after it with a sharp screwdriver, but that can really torque my wrists as I bear down on the driver. Which is why I'm looking for a solution that allows me to get my weight into the job.

Still haven't decided which way to go; will likely eventually get both, based on the recommendations above.
 
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MrMark

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I always end up doing the surgery if these are outdoor screws. The heads are just going to snap off as the screws are not even that strong to begin with unless they are #10 or bigger. Get out the remnants with needle nose vise grips, drill out to 3/8" and and redowl with outdoor glue. Best you can do sometimes.
 
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Bolster

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So true. That pretty much describes my approach also, once those acursed heads snap off. Just painful to think about. Old screws are the bedevilment of my life.
 

MrMark

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You NEED the Makita self centering hinge drill set. Makes perfectly centered holes in hinge holes. Have you seen this?
 
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