To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Considering locating compressor pump in seperate location from tank - am I crazy?

69daytona4me

Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2013
Messages
13
I just ordered a 31 CFM compressor for doing restoration work including painting. I tripped across a nearly 20 year old thread where a guy talked about removing the compression pump from this compressor and mounting it across his shop from the tank to reduce the heat and condensation in the compressor tank. If I were to do this, I'd put the compressor pump which requires 220/50 Amp in my basement utility room and run 3/4 inch copper pipe across the basement to my garage. This would solve a number of problems:
- Wiring my garage for 220 (I could go directly to my breaker box in my utility room). Big cost savings here!
- I'd no longer need an "after cooler" between my compressor pump and tank as the pipe across the length of my basement would achieve this
- I would not have the noise of the compressor pump in my garage
- I would not be sucking humid air from my garage into my compressor
- I would not be potentially sucking paint fumes into my compressor from the garage area (less chance for an explosion that way)

Of course, I would have to mount the compressor pump to something very solid and I would have to plumb from the compressor pump to the tank, but the benefits outweight this.

Any constructive input would be appreciated!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

MacMcMacmac

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2014
Messages
1,591
Location
canada
Are you sure you can supply 50A from your service?

If so, remember, do NOT put an isolation valve between the compressor and the tank.

There is no downside to mounting a compressor remotely if it utilizes a vibration isolation system for the compressor and the piping, and is not bolted down tightly to an uneven surface.

It is not a good idea to mount any device producing sparks below grade level to avoid igniting heavier than air flammable gases.

Your compressor would be the low point for moisture in the air system.
 
OP
6

69daytona4me

Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2013
Messages
13
Are you sure you can supply 50A from your service?

If so, remember, do NOT put an isolation valve between the compressor and the tank.

There is no downside to mounting a compressor remotely if it utilizes a vibration isolation system for the compressor and the piping, and is not bolted down tightly to an uneven surface.

It is not a good idea to mount any device producing sparks below grade level to avoid igniting heavier than air flammable gases.

Your compressor would be the low point for moisture in the air system.
Yes, I currently have 50A from my service for my current compressor.

Thanks very much for the suggestions.

Now I need to figure out what to mount the compressor to...
 

American Locomotive

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2017
Messages
11,007
Location
Rhode Island
Why not just put the whole compressor in the basement?

Don't over complicate things. The water just doesn't magically disappear because you have a bunch of pipe between the compressor and tank. It just condenses in the pipe, and still collects in the tank.

If you're going to be painting, you're still going to need a filter and water seperator/dryer anyways.
 

Lucid Moments

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
1,775
Location
Gainesville, Ga
Just thinking out loud here, but if you mount a small tank below the compressor and route the air from the compressor to the small tank then to the main tank, then the small tank can act as a catch for any condensed moisture.
 
OP
6

69daytona4me

Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2013
Messages
13
Why not just put the whole compressor in the basement?

Don't over complicate things. The water just doesn't magically disappear because you have a bunch of pipe between the compressor and tank. It just condenses in the pipe, and still collects in the tank.

If you're going to be painting, you're still going to need a filter and water seperator/dryer anyways.
The whole compressor is just shy of 1000 pounds. That would be difficult to get down the stairs. I understand the water does not magically disappear. As stated in the original post, there are advantages to seperating the two components. I understand I will still need a filter/water seperator.
 

Citation

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Messages
3,223
Location
Indy
Moving the whole compressor in parts might make getting it down to the basement less hassle that you are thinking. I'm guessing this is a 10hp model. The motor and pump are going to be very heavy. The tank is large but probably no heavier than some of those other parts.

If you separate the tank and motor you will need a mounting plate for the pump and motor. I'm assuming you won't want to cut that off your tank. Where will you put the check valve that is between the pump and tank. Normally it is mounted to the tank and the air from the pump travels just a few feet. Here you would probably want the check valve closer to the pump. Remember that your pressure switch needs to be on the tank side of the check valve so putting the pressure switch on the compressor would require long wires to the motor starter.

Personally I would try putting some sound deadening/mufflers on the compressor instead. Some serious noise reduction can be had with things like intake mufflers. I've also heard dynamat or similar noise damping material applied to the tank makes sense.

If you do want to separate things I would consider getting a 20-30 gallon tank installed with the motor/pump to act as a local tank for things like the check valve, pressure switch etc. This would also be the tank where the condensation collects. The 80 gallon tank would be a remote buffer tank.

With such a large compressor this does sound like a seriously big project.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

u3b3rg33k

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
4,048
an aftercooler is a great way to remove water before/into the tank. auto drain handles the water.
 

seber

Well-known member
Joined
May 31, 2016
Messages
4,204
Location
Deep East Tx.
The copper tubing would act as an intercooler but you will need to add a drop leg and riser just ahead of the tank to take advantage of that. Air goes up, moisture goes down and collects in the drop leg. Add a drain or plan on unscrewing the cap daily.
 

u2slow

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
3,610
Location
BC
We run separate tank and compressor setups at work. What's tricky is the pressure switches are at the tanks. (That may be a regulatory requirement for us.)

You do want isolation valves so that you can contain your air charge against leaks or compressor servicing. Make sure they're open when the compressor runs or you'll be testing your pressure relief device.

I would consider a small tank at the compressor anyway, in addition to the larger one at the shop.
 

Leaflessshadetree

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
7,171
Location
Don't ask.
I'd expect more moisture in the air. around here most basements are damp to some degree. Also seems like cost and effort to run pipe is usually more than wiring the same distance.
 

Walkers

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2021
Messages
3,912
Location
Cave Creek Az
Perhaps after this you can reinvent the wheel. Kidding, sort of. It is an awful lot of trouble for very little in return. Put your complete compressor somewhere convenient. Get some piping to where you use it, filter/dry it down to your needs at the point of use, enjoy.
 

MacMcMacmac

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2014
Messages
1,591
Location
canada
Isolation valves between a compressor and a remote tank can create an explosion hazard if there is no pressure relief valve in the line between the compressor and the valve and the pressure switch is set up to sense tank pressure. A guy nearly lost his arm here a few years ago when a copper line exploded because of it. Yes, it was a dumb setup, but it only takes one time.

I have used UniStrut to mount compressors and motors before. It workd well but don`t neglect vibration isolation.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom