Construction methods for controlling sound from a garage workshop

[Majeztic]

I am in the process of building a 50x50 garage workshop. The building is concrete block with 5/8" stucco on the exterior. The interior walls and ceiling will be 5/8" drywall and the attic space will have blown-in cellulose insulation in it. The windows are double pane impact windows which really don't allow much sound through at all and the doors are all 1-3/4" solid core.

My next step is to install the furring strips and drywall. Before I proceed, I want to be sure I don't overlook any simple or inexpensive materials or construction methods to further help reduce the sound transmission through the exterior walls. I don't need soundproof. I believe the block walls with stucco and 5/8" drywall should get me over 50 stc but if I can throw a little bit more time and money at it to improve that rating a little, it would be worth it to me to do so.

Specifically, I have been considering:

a.) installing Blue Ridge SoundStop fiberboard on all the exterior walls prior to drywall
-or-
b.) installing GreenGlue joist tape on the furring strips prior to drywall
-or-
c.) installing 3/4" thick fiberglass insulation in the furring space (which I haven't found a source for yet)

I know that there are better options out there but I don't need the building to be soundproof. This is a lot of square footage and the cost for legit soundproofing methods is prohibitive. I'm just curious if there is anything I can do to gain a few more stc points without breaking the bank.

Thoughts?

 

[loganb]

1st question...why the concern on noise leakage to the exterior as it impacts the solution. Is this a personal desire on your end or trying to keep nice with neighbors etc? 50 x 50 is nice sized which likely means larger lot and neighbors generally not as close...but not always

So I believe the biggest benefit will be from decoupling materials...which in this case means not furring out the block walls, putting a 1" gap off the interior face of the wall and then framing up your wall there in a conventional stick built fashion but not touching the exterior wall at any location. This dramatically reduces the vibrations from passing from one to another...but is a pretty significant departure from what it sounds like you were planning of 3/4" furring strips.

Now short of that you could use resilient channel to hang the drywall instead, caulk and seal all penetrations and sill/top plates(where air leaks sound leaks) and some other steps....but I think the biggest improvement will be from physically splitting the interior wall from the exterior wall. Plus it then allows space for full depth Rockwool Safe-N-Sound or similar mineral wool insulation which offers both sound insulation and fire protection benefits.

If loosing an extra 4-5" more around the perimeter then planned, or the cost/time of framing in the interior isn't in scope right now, can you do it in just the machine/noisy room? Keep the loud(and likely dusty/dirty stuff in that room and only do that additional wall framing there.

 

[Majeztic]

I am just trying to limit the impact on my neighbors from any of the excess noise from my woodworking equipment. The closest neighbor is probably 100' away but they are pretty noisy themselves and I doubt I would disturb them. The next closest are about 200' from the garage.

I should have mentioned it but I do have a separate equipment room planned for the compressors and dust collector that will be decoupled and insulated.

I like your suggestion for the resilient channel but I think it would prevent me from hanging anything on the walls. I'll have to ponder on that.

 

[tncatadjuster]

How full and of what, will be of considerable influence. I think you have it covered from your description.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

There's some mass loaded vinyl or acoustic cloth stuff you can hang behind sheetrock.

External ventilation should not be straightline.

Sounds like you are decided on windows, glass block also works well.

 

[Dig Doug]

The best way is to add insulated furred out walls all around the masonry.

although the garage door is still the weakest point for noise transfer

also hanging some moving blankets from the ceiling or on the back side of the rolled down garage door will soften the sound transfer.

they have special wall paper to trap sound waves… kinda expensive but it works.

 

[Youngandfree]

Rockwool insulation

 

[Citation]

Don't curse?

When I saw the thread title I was thinking about my mom telling my dad to watch his language when working in the garage. Those were the sounds I remember when I was a kid.

 

[billconner]

Grout the block.

 

[gtae07]

How loud are you really planning on being? My shop is normal stick-built with 2x6 walls, batt insulation, insulated doors, and lightweight drywall. You can't hear the compressor banging away if you're more than a few feet from the entrance door. I've never had noise complaints from my neigbors and they're only 40-50 feet away, and I've done plenty of riveting, grinding, etc. Besides, my six year old makes a lot more noise than anything I do...

If you're really worried about it, don't do the noisiest stuff at night...

 

[jar944]

I am just trying to limit the impact on my neighbors from any of the excess noise from my woodworking equipment. The closest neighbor is probably 100' away but they are pretty noisy themselves and I doubt I would disturb them. The next closest are about 200' from the garage.

What equipment specifically? Most WW machinery isn't all that loud (outside a shop).

 

[billconner]

I think just your block wall will do a pretty good job, without drywall. Best if no or few windows in wall facing neighbors. Still the weak spot for sound transmission. 8" block has an STC rating around 50. Double pane windows around 30. A solid core door in a gasketed frame in low 40s.

Not precise but download a free sound meter app on you phone, and measure your shop now. Subtract 50 for the block, and that's what will be other side of block wall. Then the sound drops by the inverse square of the distance. I think hardly noticeable 100' away.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Expanding foam to fill the core of the block-

Garage door(s) are your weakest link- when compared to all the other materials that makeup the walls.

 

[Hooked]

My 40x60 metal building isn't insulated and 100' away you will barely know I'm running any equipment. The loudest is my Jet planer but it doesn't make enough noise to notice with all the doors closed.

 

[sonoronos]

The actual materials notwithstanding (you have probably done enough research on materials), your best bet is to make sure that the structure is sufficiently air sealed. Penetrations and gaps will allow noise to escape regardless of what materials you choose.

That said, the person who said that windows present the biggest problem is correct. WIthout fairly thick laminated glass, it's difficult to radically reduce the noise transmitted through windows.

 

[gmcgeo]

sound deadening panels?

 

[flyingblind]

Indoor Gun ranges are best kept underground so the sound goes straight up.

 

[nadogail]

Glass windows and cheap metal garage doors act like drum heads, effectively amplifying any vibration imposed upon them.

 

[nadogail]

I own a condominium unit that was built with Sound Blocking walls. The top and bottom plates are very wide and the studs are staggered along the edges with sound board woven between them effectively eliminating the transmission of vibration from one 5/8” drywall panel to the other.

The developer and builder did a great job back in 1979

 

[rancherbill]

I think the walls and roof plans are good. IMHO, the man doors, big doors and the windows are areas to look at.

 

[PoorUB]

As long as the doors are closed there will be very little noise transmission.
I live in an older neighbor hood and the cosest neighbor's house is 50 feet from my shop. He has never complained of noise. I work in the driveway offten, but later in the evenings I will move inside and close the door.

 

[yhprum]

Maybe if your main opening doors are made from wood it could help dampen any noise transference.

 

[Denwood]

I'd skip resilient channel, and go with two layers of 5/8" type X with green glue in between. Simple and proven effective. I would not bother with insulating the furring gap. Then you can do whatever you want on the walls without concerns about decoupling resilient.

 

[billconner]

What you put on the block walls won't make much difference in sound transmission.

 

[BillK]

I think you are overthinking it. My business is in a block building and I have a steel shot blaster that is louder than any woodworking machine I have ever heard. I have walked outside when it is running and as soon as the door shuts I cant hear it. I just dont think you are going to have an issue at all.

 

[TRWham]

We use this as a reference:

https://www.nationalgypsum.com/design-resource-center/literature/the-soundbook-2-0

 

[Jeff C]

I’ve heard good things about quiet rock or equivalent products with the two thin layers of drywall and the elastomer sealant between them. I also am firmly in the “you’re overthinking this” group.

 

[Renegade1LI]

If you really want to limit sound use an acoustical cmu like these.

Soundblox | Westbrook Concrete Block

www.westbrookblock.com

 

[jar944]

As fun as an academic endeavor as this is, woodshop machinery is just not that loud. The block walls and a closed door are more than enough to keep your neighbors happy and unaware.

 

[Jackfre]

Not sure what equipment you are running but I just ordered a new duct collector. “Processors” they call them now. My Grizzly cyclone along with my Dewalt 735 planer is noisy with plugs and ear muffs on. As I’m moving to a neighborhood for the first time I am getting rid of the Grizzly, which has been a fine piece of gear and will be receiving a Harvey G-700. Collapsing a 1000 sq ft into a two car garage, the horizontal and short height is a real bonus as well.

 

[mike93lx]

At 100-200' away, you could have a gun range in your building and the neighbors likely won't hear a thing. Finish out the interior in whatever way you want to look at as it wont matter for sound

 

[chuck356]

I need to watch this, I have issues with hearing my stereo (especially after a few beers) outside of my fully insulated and finished pole barn.

 

[mike93lx]

I need to watch this, I have issues with hearing my stereo (especially after a few beers) outside of my fully insulated and finished pole barn.

 

[ybnormal]

hobby woodshop, already solidly built, not a business, 100ft away from neighbors
about the only real noise makers (vacuum, air compressor) he has he says are already fixed for noise

planers can be high and screechy but that's about the noisiest wood working tool I can think of. and again, it wouldn't be running all day since it is a hobby shop

....overthinking it . you can always hang more blankets on the walls inside

 

[jar944]

hobby woodshop, already solidly built, not a business, 100ft away from neighbors
about the only real noise makers (vacuum, air compressor) he has he says are already fixed for noise

planers can be high and screechy but that's about the noisiest wood working tool I can think of. and again, it wouldn't be running all day since it is a hobby shop

....overthinking it . you can always hang more blankets on the walls inside

I have a shop full of industrial ww equipment and the loudest thing in there is a router running at 25000 rpm.

 

[Zeke]

What equipment specifically? Most WW machinery isn't all that loud (outside a shop).

Then you don't have a planer or router. In metalwork it's the angle grinder

To the OP: sound travels in air so weatherstrip your doors tight and no sound will go that route. Also Dual pane windows need 2 different thickness of glass. One laminated pane next to 1/8th is pretty good.

 

[mike93lx]

Then you don't have a planer or router. In metalwork it's the angle grinder

To the OP: sound travels in air so weatherstrip your doors tight and no sound will go that route. Also Dual pane windows need 2 different thickness of glass. One laminated pane next to 1/8th is pretty good.

At 100-200' away, he could use them outside and most wouldnt consider it annoying for a residential shop

 

[Zeke]

Depends. If someone is using a router in my neighborhood with lots of houses and trees to deaden sound, I can hear one for a city block. Used all day it's annoying. Kinda like chain saws which can be heard for several blocks. More so than the chipper. I do realize often the CS is higher up. But routers scream and planers are just damn loud. Even my jointer is too loud to use w/o ear protection unless I'm just skimming.

I've had 2 kinds of table saws, loud and not so loud. The blade can make a big difference but some of those bench top/portable ones are screamers too.

Anyway, the OP wants to be quiet, so why are we discussing this? It's his choice if he wants to be stealthy. Sometimes I wish I could but instead, I stop frequently and do something else besides continuously using one loud tool. It's the time factor as much as the dB.

 

[jar944]

Then you don't have a planer or router. In metalwork it's the angle grinder

To the OP: sound travels in air so weatherstrip your doors tight and no sound will go that route. Also Dual pane windows need 2 different thickness of glass. One laminated pane next to 1/8th is pretty good.

I agree on the router, but still its not that bad. The only loud planers are the bench tops units running universal motors. The big planers are relatively quiet in comparison (unless you have the deflectors set too close (15" and 20" 4 post planers) those sound like air raid sirens if they are set up wrong.

The DC is louder than my shapers, planers or jointer

 

[mike93lx]

Depends. If someone is using a router in my neighborhood with lots of houses and trees to deaden sound, I can hear one for a city block. Used all day it's annoying. Kinda like chain saws which can be heard for several blocks. More so than the chipper. I do realize often the CS is higher up. But routers scream and planers are just damn loud. Even my jointer is too loud to use w/o ear protection unless I'm just skimming.

I've had 2 kinds of table saws, loud and not so loud. The blade can make a big difference but some of those bench top/portable ones are screamers too.

Anyway, the OP wants to be quiet, so why are we discussing this? It's his choice if he wants to be stealthy. Sometimes I wish I could but instead, I stop frequently and do something else besides continuously using one loud tool. It's the time factor as much as the dB.

Just having a discussion. I like being respectful of my neighbors too