CONSULT: Help Adding Auto Drain to 220V Compressor With Magnetic Starter

[bradform]

I’m in the process of adding an automatic drain to my shop air compressor. The compressor is 220V single phase 5 hp run with a magnetic starter and pressure switch manufactured by Square D. The compressor is manufactured by ACS. The timer switch and solenoid valve I’m adding is below.

Baomain AC 220V H3Y-2 Time Delay Relay Solid State Timer 0-5S DPDT w Socket
Baomain 1/4 Inch Brass Electric Solenoid Valve for Air Water Valve N/C (Normally Closed) AC 220V

I found some good directions to wire the system into a 220V compressor system that operates on just a pressure switch, but nothing on how to wire into a system with a magnetic starter. I’d really value some input on where exactly to wire in the timer and solenoid into a system with a magnetic starter and pressure switch. Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Terry D]

I believe you may have the wrong kind of timer. That is a on delay timer. Every time that timer gets a signal, it will start the delay (timed) process. After that process, the contacts will change states, And depending if the load is wired to the NO or NC contacts, it will turn it on or off after the timed period Then when it losses its control signal, The timer will go back to its deenergized state. when the control signal it reapplied, the process will start all over. It cannot just turn something on and off with out losing the input signal. Plus it will keep the valve open until it loses its control signal. If you would wire this through the pressure switch, it would open the valve every time the compressor cycled. Plus it would stay open until the compressor shut off, and it probably wouldn't shut off because the valve is open letting air out. You are going to need a timer that has constant power to it and has 2 settings. One for how often you want it to drain ( example, once or twice a day) and another setting for how long you want the valve to stay open. They sell complete units on amazon that will pipe right off your drain and plug into 120 volt. This might be easier than trying to wire off the compressor power. Here is one example.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00273WV78/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[dw1]

Not to change your plans, but something like this would be easier:
https://www.grainger.com/product/13...18555&ef_id=Xl6fSgAAAq8Qjf5i:20200430154649:s

It plugs into a 120 v outlet, set your open (drain) time. The last 2 IR compressors that i hooked up, had something similar to this.

 

[bradform]

I debated whether to go with a plugin 120V system, but changed my mind after seeing this video and instructions. Sounds like I may have pulled the trigger too quickly. The instructions I was referring to in my initial post are below:

DIY Auto Drain for Your 220V Air Compressor! Extend the life of your air compressor for under $50.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I believe you may have the wrong kind of timer. That is a on delay timer. Every time that timer gets a signal, it will start the delay (timed) process. After that process, the contacts will change states, And depending if the load is wired to the NO or NC contacts, it will turn it on or off after the timed period Then when it losses its control signal, The timer will go back to its deenergized state. when the control signal it reapplied, the process will start all over. It cannot just turn something on and off with out losing the input signal. Plus it will keep the valve open until it loses its control signal. If you would wire this through the pressure switch, it would open the valve every time the compressor cycled. Plus it would stay open until the compressor shut off, and it probably wouldn't shut off because the valve is open letting air out. You are going to need a timer that has constant power to it and has 2 settings. One for how often you want it to drain ( example, once or twice a day) and another setting for how long you want the valve to stay open. They sell complete units on amazon that will pipe right off your drain and plug into 120 volt. This might be easier than trying to wire off the compressor power. Here is one example.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00273WV78/?tag=atomicindus08-20

He could just wire the correct timer off the auxiliary line side lugs on the top of the contactor....

 

[bradform]

This is the wiring diagram from the referenced plan in the original post and video. Again, this compressor does not have a magnetic starter and runs only on the pressure switch.



Below are pictures of my system.

 

[Terry D]

He could just wire the correct timer off the auxiliary line side lugs on the top of the contactor....

He could, but I believe the easiest thing would be to get the unit that just plugs into 120 volt

 

[bradform]

All,

Update. I've taken everyones advise and returned the 220 volt stuff and plan to go with the 120 volt set up. My compressor will be located under a shelter outside my shop in middle Georgia. Does anyone think I'll have operational issues with the auto drain in occasional freezing temperatures? It only gets really cold for here (20’s) a few days per year. It gets at or below freezing around 30 days per year.


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[Jbullfrog]

If it gets down to freezing, the moisture will ice up in your tank. The valve will still open on schedule, but frozen moisture won't come out. You could just unplug it when it's going to be cold to avoid ice chunks possibly keeping the drain from closing and causing an air leak. As long as your tank doesn't freeze, the valve will work fine.

 

[bradform]

Update #2. I fired the compressor up before reinstalling and have run into another issue. The tank has a small air leak in the bottom from where the PO didn’t drain the tank regularly. From what I’ve read, welding a leak from internal rust isn’t the smartest option. I’ve found an ingersoll rand 80 gallon vertical compressor that has a bad pump for a reasonable price. My question now to everyone is what are the chances I can swap over my motor and pump from the horizontal tank I have to the ingersoll rand 80 gallon vertical tank? Below are some pics of my compressor and what the ingersoll rand tank looks like.





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[BillK]

Brad,
Cant help you with your vertical /horizontal swap but wanted to mention that at the first location my business was in we had two compressors and they were both outside. They had auto drains that somehow worked on air pressure differences ? There was no electrical needed. I cant remember exactly how they worked. It may have been every morning when wie turned them on and the air pressure came up ? Not sure. Might be something to look into. They were pretty simple and never gave a problem the 6 or 7 years we were there.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Update #2. I fired the compressor up before reinstalling and have run into another issue. The tank has a small air leak in the bottom from where the PO didn’t drain the tank regularly. From what I’ve read, welding a leak from internal rust isn’t the smartest option. I’ve found an ingersoll rand 80 gallon vertical compressor that has a bad pump for a reasonable price. My question now to everyone is what are the chances I can swap over my motor and pump from the horizontal tank I have to the ingersoll rand 80 gallon vertical tank? Below are some pics of my compressor and what the ingersoll rand tank looks like.





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the mounting holes/frames would need to be the same obviously. check the frame number on the new and old.