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Contractor wants $10k... need advice

M

maplecherrywalnut

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Jul 13, 2024
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Just moved into a new house with a detached garage in central NJ.
Excited to make the space into a workshop, but currently have exposed insulation which is pretty beat up.

I got a quote for the drywall only (guy told me no vapor barrier, keep current insulation) for $10k which seems insane to me.

Here's the thing... I'm not super concerned with the effectiveness of the insulation, and the space will only be heated occasionally with a small electric space heater in the winter. I'm looking for a relatively cost effective way to get walls up and make it a finished space without risking any mold issues.

I'm comfortable drywalling it myself, but my questions are:

1) Does this insulation NEED to be replaced/modified?

2) Vapor barrier yay or nay?

3) How much of a nightmare would it be to remove the insulation if I decide to go that route?
 

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T

The Cobbler

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there does appear to be some noticeable water damage , that needs to be addresses.
as far as vapour barrier, there's discussions on both sides for garages.
pulling out the insulation is not difficult , but may be pointless if it's in good shape .
hard to comment on your quoted price without knowing details of quote. size, specs , etc but it could well be , "If I get it, great, if not , that's OK " price too.
 
L

LWB

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Like others have said, there looks to be water damage. Pull the insulation there and have a look.

There is such a thing as water vapor barrier paint/primer.

Moisture Vapor Barrier - Sherwin-Williams

Designed to reduce the loss of moisture through walls and ceilings.. Combines a primer and finish in one single fast drying coat.. Is specially formulated for manufactured housing facilities..
www.sherwin-williams.com www.sherwin-williams.com
 
F

finn

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The UP, God's country
Looks like dirty insulation with local areas of potential water damage.

Pull down obviously questionable areas, especially along the sill. Identify and remediate sources of water intrusion, if any, replace insulation as required, install a vapor barrier and go.

Ugly doesn’t always mean bad. Don’t cover up mold, if any, though.
 
U

u2slow

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BC
bluedog225 said:
Yeah. No big deal. Pull the moldy stuff. Fix the leaks and any damage. Good to go. No reason to get rid of it all.

Don’t know about vapor barriers up north.

And any insulation is good insulation.
Click to expand...

Agreed. VB on the inside in cool climate... and I would do 6mil poly - with taped seams and the 'acousti-seal' butyl caulk. It really doesn't cost much to DIY properly. IMHO, eliminating drafts (a moisture source) is beneficial even if not heating the space. Then it's correct for future heat, even if it's not you doing it.
 
A

acer66

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Western North Carolina
Op said he is good with doing drywall.

I did a few one man drywall jobs and having it delivered, getting a drywall lift and a cordless drywall gun and that is not a too bad project.

Finishing drywall on the other hand.

Like with everything else the cost of drywall work has gone through the roof.
 
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loganb

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Omaha, NE
Agree with prior comments to pull the obviously dirty or wet insulation and replace after fixing the source of air leaks

I'd look hard at metal liner panel on the ceiling instead of drywall. 5/8 drywall for walls, I have no experience with it but would look closer at impact resistant rock if I was going to redo my own garage walls
 
M

Metal-Marc

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This looks nasty. Where does the water come from? Fix this before anything.

img_7536-jpg.2146513
 
B

BillK

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What kind of "workshop" is is going to be ? How much chance of the walls really getting beat up ? I did my attached garage with inexpensive wall paneling almost 40 years ago and it still looks great but its mostly a garage other than my Ham Radio electronics bench on one side. Mine is nailed directly to the studs over the insulation. The 12ft ceiling would make it a little harder because you would need a joint for the typical 4x8 panels.

I like the idea of the metal panels for the ceiling.

Here is an older thread with some ideas:

wall paneling for inside of garage

Hey guys, new to the forum. I have a 32x32 garage with 14' to the bottom of open rafters. Around the sides is block about 4ft tall then studs and insulation. I am looking to cover up the studs and insulation with 4x8 sheets of paneling but am looking for something that looks decent and not as...
www.garagejournal.com www.garagejournal.com
 
OP
M

maplecherrywalnut

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Jul 13, 2024
Messages
6
BillK said:
What kind of "workshop" is is going to be ? How much chance of the walls really getting beat up ? I did my attached garage with inexpensive wall paneling almost 40 years ago and it still looks great but its mostly a garage other than my Ham Radio electronics bench on one side. Mine is nailed directly to the studs over the insulation. The 12ft ceiling would make it a little harder because you would need a joint for the typical 4x8 panels.

I like the idea of the metal panels for the ceiling.

Here is an older thread with some ideas:

wall paneling for inside of garage

Hey guys, new to the forum. I have a 32x32 garage with 14' to the bottom of open rafters. Around the sides is block about 4ft tall then studs and insulation. I am looking to cover up the studs and insulation with 4x8 sheets of paneling but am looking for something that looks decent and not as...
www.garagejournal.com www.garagejournal.com
Click to expand...
Woodworking shop, so the idea is to have very little moisture in the first place. I have a few dehumidifiers running and no real sources of water. That's why I was thinking I might be able to avoid the vapor barrier and use vapor retarding paint over well-sealed drywall. I was contemplating getting some 12' panels too due to the height.
 
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mm08822

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First of all, understand exactly what the overall insulation is. I believe I'm seeing rock wool covered by a seperate foil backed insulation. Or maybe it is all one unsulating unit.

The vb should be on the inside. Make sure there is none against the sheathing (unless it is slit.) If the white plastic is the only vb, it is useless as there are so many open areas to let moisture pass through. Air will also pass through easier.

The bowed wire insulation supports can be easily popped out to let the insulation drop for inspection (or removal). Remove suspected areas and check for mold, vb placement/quality and inspect the wiring while open.
This is the time to evaluate your wiring needs and add/replace if needed. Also check if there is evidence of critters....including termites. Now is the time to fix......before sheetrock. Treat any mold on wood surfaces before replacing insulation.

The building looks old judging by the aged color of the studs. Possibly the insulation is too so it could be matted down loosing r-value. Some areas could be perfectly fine, but start looking at the worst first.

Worst case, you have to pull out all insulation and replace it. I would use R-13 unfaced and staple a continuous sheet of 6 mil vb on each wall. Tape vb seams or overlap 3 feet.

The insulation on the underside of the roof is questionable if you are insulating the flat ceiling. Soffit vents and ridge vent (or gable vents) will help with air circulation.

If you can hang drywall, I suggest you do that. Maybe just hire out the taping.

(Sorry to blow up the scope of work, but now is the right time to do it right or at least confirm it is ok as is.)
 
H

hefnerconstructionlc

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Messages
665
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Kansas
Metal liner and be done. Diy job. Already painted. If you need to change things in the wall you can. I have a liner in my shop. Would not even consider drywall. Same size as your shop.
 

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OP
M

maplecherrywalnut

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Jul 13, 2024
Messages
6
mm08822 said:
First of all, understand exactly what the overall insulation is. I believe I'm seeing rock wool covered by a seperate foil backed insulation. Or maybe it is all one unsulating unit.

The vb should be on the inside. Make sure there is none against the sheathing (unless it is slit.) If the white plastic is the only vb, it is useless as there are so many open areas to let moisture pass through. Air will also pass through easier.

The bowed wire insulation supports can be easily popped out to let the insulation drop for inspection (or removal). Remove suspected areas and check for mold, vb placement/quality and inspect the wiring while open.
This is the time to evaluate your wiring needs and add/replace if needed. Also check if there is evidence of critters....including termites. Now is the time to fix......before sheetrock. Treat any mold on wood surfaces before replacing insulation.

The building looks old judging by the aged color of the studs. Possibly the insulation is too so it could be matted down loosing r-value. Some areas could be perfectly fine, but start looking at the worst first.

Worst case, you have to pull out all insulation and replace it. I would use R-13 unfaced and staple a continuous sheet of 6 mil vb on each wall. Tape vb seams or overlap 3 feet.

The insulation on the underside of the roof is questionable if you are insulating the flat ceiling. Soffit vents and ridge vent (or gable vents) will help with air circulation.

If you can hang drywall, I suggest you do that. Maybe just hire out the taping.

(Sorry to blow up the scope of work, but now is the right time to do it right or at least confirm it is ok as is.)
Click to expand...
Appreciate all the detail! I had an electrician in recently so that part is done. I'm going to take your advice and start pulling out and inspecting the insulation before anything else.
 
M

mm08822

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I like the metal liner too.

Check that it will meet firecode w/o sheetrock behind it first.
 
N

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
Pull the old insulation, inspect and fix any issues.

Reinsulate, put metal liner on the ceiling, plywood on the walls and hang new LED lights.

DIY, you will have it all done for less than $10K.

Sweat equity.
 
B

bb29510

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Dec 27, 2022
Messages
1,216
metal, I dont like the echo, metal price, i got quote on seven pieces 10 feet long, so that would cover 21 feet by 10. it was $340
 
S

Skooterj

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Mar 11, 2021
Messages
750
Location
Indiana
A 25x25 garage drywall job is like a $2500 job, max. $1500 if you buy and have delivered the material and have everything prepped. Unless you want some stupid class 5 smooth *** finish or something. Good crew will be done in 3 days.
 
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