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Controlling four lighting circuits from one switch

PoorUB

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The guy that built the garage I have was wiring crazy! There are several lighting circuits. I have been able to reduce it to four circuits with individual switches.

I would like to replace the one switch inside the walk in door with a master switch, then have the remining three circuits act as slaves from that switch. In other words, I want walk in and hit one switch and all the lighting will come on. No dimmers, just on and off. Most circuits have LEDs if that matters.

I know this can be done. I just can not seems to find what I need. There are so many choices it gets confusing!
 
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Firebrick43

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um, bring all 4 circuits into a junction box. Have the main feed go to a switch then to the junction box and feed all 4 circuits. Will have to use 3 wire nuts and a jumper as to not have to many wires on a nut. Same with a neutral but won't go thru the switch
 

pattenp

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There are smart switch systems that have a master all on/off and can control each light bank separately. Each bank has its own smart switch that can be controlled by the master switch. One that I can think of is called Halo. It's bluetooth wireless.
 

Shiftless

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When you say “lighting circuit” I hope you don’t have 4 groups of lights each coming off a separate breaker. That makes it more complicated.
 

Norcal

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If they can be combined to one switch, that is one option if it won't overload the circuit, another option is a contactor, done where one switch needs to control more then one circuit one disadvantage is there can be a hum when the contactor is closed.
 

ycgoat

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In addition to everything thing above, and like a smart relay you could also use 2 double throw relays, where 1 switch activates both relays
 

sparky 1971

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I'm old school and don't trust any of the new "smart" stuff. I like contactors, they have proven themselves over the last few decades. I have a few customers that have had the smart switches, and when there is a problem a few years down the road, an exact replacement cannot be found because the manufacturers have "new and improved" them. Contactors have been around forever, and will be around even longer. When there is failure, just go get a match, in the OP's case, a four pole with a 120 volt coil.
 

Norcal

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I'm old school and don't trust any of the new "smart" stuff. I like contactors, they have proven themselves over the last few decades. I have a few customers that have had the smart switches, and when there is a problem a few years down the road, an exact replacement cannot be found because the manufacturers have "new and improved" them. Contactors have been around forever, and will be around even longer. When there is failure, just go get a match, in the OP's case, a four pole with a 120 volt coil.
Thank you for this, I agree that the "Smart Stuff" is best left alone, for the reasons you stated. Still have not improved on contactors, just like have not been able to improve on old school cast iron tubs.
 
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PoorUB

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So all 4 groups of lights are now controlled by 4 switches all at the same location or ???

um, bring all 4 circuits into a junction box. Have the main feed go to a switch then to the junction box and feed all 4 circuits. Will have to use 3 wire nuts and a jumper as to not have to many wires on a nut. Same with a neutral but won't go thru the switch
No, different breakers, and three different locations!

Same location and I wouldn't even bring it up! I get tired of walking around the shop turning on lights. The guy that wired this place had to be on crack! I have joked about a huge, old style knife switch on the wall for all the lighting! Just bang it on and all there is a surge in the power grid!

No I will not "wire" them together. There has to be a wireless option to do this.
 
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PoorUB

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I'm old school and don't trust any of the new "smart" stuff. I like contactors, they have proven themselves over the last few decades. I have a few customers that have had the smart switches, and when there is a problem a few years down the road, an exact replacement cannot be found because the manufacturers have "new and improved" them. Contactors have been around forever, and will be around even longer. When there is failure, just go get a match, in the OP's case, a four pole with a 120 volt coil.
Thanks, but not helpful.

I like tech. If I put switches in and they fail in 5-10 years I will just replace them.
 
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PoorUB

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This sounds like a good use case for Lutron Caseta. Replace the 4 light switches with new smart off/on switches, use a remote to drive them by the entry door.

This is what I have been looking at. It looks to me I would have to replace all four switches, then mount the remote on the wall by the door. I haven't been able to fine ones without a dimmer!

The one switch is by the door already, is there a switch I can use to mount in the existing box to control one circuit, that will "talk" to the other three?
 

yatg

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Same location and I wouldn't even bring it up! I get tired of walking around the shop turning on lights. The guy that wired this place had to be on crack! I have joked about a huge, old style knife switch on the wall for all the lighting! Just bang it on and all there is a surge in the power grid!
You could actually do that using contactors with low voltage coils. That's a lot more fun than smart switches.
 
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PoorUB

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You could actually do that using contactors with low voltage coils. That's a lot more fun than smart switches.
It doesn't sound like fun to me!

Keep in mind my shop is all finished inside. I would have to pull wires through walls to control the circuits with hard wiring.

If I don't use some sort of wireless devise it won't happen!
 

dogdog

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Maybe a wifi switch for each and control them with your favorite siri/google/amazon donkeys? Don't you love to scream Hey Siri turn off all lights ?
 
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PoorUB

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Maybe a wifi switch for each and control them with your favorite siri/google/amazon donkeys? Don't you love to scream Hey Siri turn off all lights ?
I am not going that far with it!

I see with the Lutron switches you can order a "hub" to connect with you favorite internet home listening device!
 

ycgoat

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I'm old school and don't trust any of the new "smart" stuff. I like contactors, they have proven themselves over the last few decades. I have a few customers that have had the smart switches, and when there is a problem a few years down the road, an exact replacement cannot be found because the manufacturers have "new and improved" them. Contactors have been around forever, and will be around even longer. When there is failure, just go get a match, in the OP's case, a four pole with a 120 volt coil.
I share your OP, but I installed this smart relay almost 10yrs ago to integrate some gas detectors to local siren/strobes, gas shut off relays, and Fire alarm. I no longer work in the Fire alarm group but got called upon because after an extended power outage the Hydrogen gas was locked out from the gas detectors. The battery back up had died and the system just needed to be started, I hit the "run" button and tested everything. I have done similar using Ice Cube relays and it gets complicated. The disadvantage of these in this case would be its low voltage, might need other relays for the current, and has to be programmed, but it is reliable. https://www.altechcorp.com/SmartRelay/

Edit. They have a 120/240V version with 8 amp contacts
 
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PoorUB

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Four breakers. Four switches.

22 each - 4 foot converted floresant two bulb fixtures with a few medium base porcelain fixtures with LED bulbs.

I thought of pulling all the feeds from the panel into a electrical box large enough for a couple relays but that is too much work!
 

sparky 1971

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Four breakers. Four switches.

22 each - 4 foot converted floresant two bulb fixtures with a few medium base porcelain fixtures with LED bulbs.

I thought of pulling all the feeds from the panel into a electrical box large enough for a couple relays but that is too much work!
If the florescent conversions are using 18 watt tubes, you are only looking at 792 watts, 22 watt tubes and it's up to 968 watts. The lamps in the porcelain fixtures can't add very much. You could probably put everything on one breaker and be done with it. Is the wiring in conduit? If so it would be pretty easy to run a set of travelers between the two locations and three way them. Even if it's not in pipe, it might still be fairly easy to fish up or down 8" or so from each box and run a conduit between them.
 

nadogail

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With enough time and money; almost any problem can be solved, but as a practical matter there are often limitations on the amount of resources that can be tied to seeking a solution.
 

pl_silverado

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Lutron Caseta will do this. Replace all the switches, then program a pico remote to control all of them. I have my outdoor lights setup this way.
 

nadogail

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You can have all four relay coils, one for each string of lights, wired in parallel and operated by a single switch.
 
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PoorUB

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You can have all four relay coils, one for each string of lights, wired in parallel and operated by a single switch.
Guys, just so you know, I did building automation for HVAC and lighting. I could whip this up with relays and low voltage controls in my sleep, but I won't, so don't even bother! I have wired up so many control systems over the years in pretty crazy systems. Computers controls with communication wire all over. Systems you need a computer to program and trouble shoot. If I was going to do the relay thing it would be done by now, I don't need any help if I did it that way.

Like I mentioned earlier the shop is all sheet rocked so it would mean pulling wire through the walls into the attic and I am not that ambitious!

The Lutron Caseta is or something similar or it will not get done. I likw the Lutron Casete, but not the price! It would be $400 to replace the four light switches.
 

PCustoms

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Is there **** thing as a "light on" photo cell?

Wire it in so when one bank is in the rest come on as well.
 
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PoorUB

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I have never seen a reverse operating photo cel. I have considered just putting the lights on a motion detectors set for a very long time out.
 

PCustoms

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I have never seen a reverse operating photo cel. I have considered just putting the lights on a motion detectors set for a very long time out.
I almost suggested that!

I guess I'm lost as to why you wouldn't use one of the remote/networking switches run of the primary switch or at least installed in that location. Admittedly I haven't looked into these myself.
 

dave*99

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Use this and 4 of the switches from the same product line.
The 4 buttons can be programmed to your needs. One could be all on, one could be all off and one could be 2 on etc.
Or one button for each set of lights. Any combo is possible. And the 4 individual D215 switches can be on any circuit in the building.


1648418614057.png
 
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pl_silverado

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Guys, just so you know, I did building automation for HVAC and lighting. I could whip this up with relays and low voltage controls in my sleep, but I won't, so don't even bother! I have wired up so many control systems over the years in pretty crazy systems. Computers controls with communication wire all over. Systems you need a computer to program and trouble shoot. If I was going to do the relay thing it would be done by now, I don't need any help if I did it that way.

Like I mentioned earlier the shop is all sheet rocked so it would mean pulling wire through the walls into the attic and I am not that ambitious!

The Lutron Caseta is or something similar or it will not get done. I likw the Lutron Casete, but not the price! It would be $400 to replace the four light switches.

It wasn’t that expensive from what I recall. If I’m not mistaken, a 2 pack of switches with hub and pico remote was $130, and two additional switches at $50ea. so $230-250 for 4 switches.
 

no704

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As said before, use photo switches for the slave locations. Even if you have to run a relay, it’s better than running new wires. Reminds me of photography where there are slave flashes at different angles.
 
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PoorUB

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I guess I was off a bit on the Lutron Casete. The switches are $60 each, so $240, plus the Pico remote with a wall plate is $60 more so $300.

The Leviton is tempting too but a bit more money, but it looks like it will connect to WiFi with no additional equipment, but that isn't one of my priorities.

I did find a Thinkbee control and relays that would fit in a switch box of about $65 for the set. For the money I am tempted to try it!
 

infinkc

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I went with Insteon switches in my home. They can be programmed to operate other switches really easily. I have some 8 and 6 button switches as pictured, each button can control another switch in the house, or group of them. Can have one button turn them all on or off, or choose what one you want to control all from a single location.7A774766-7713-4AE6-9F11-C04166C03ECC.jpeg
 

mike93lx

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I have never seen a reverse operating photo cel. I have considered just putting the lights on a motion detectors set for a very long time out.
I recently installed one of these in my garage. It can go up to a 45 minute minimum on time.

The cmrb6 has a longer sensor range, which I didn't need

Sensor Switch CMRB 9 Standard Range, Passive Infrared Fixture Mount Occupancy Sensor, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TGU83K/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

American Locomotive

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I would look into "self powered" wireless switches. Sometimes called "kinetic" light switches. We use one in our old farm house, since every light was a pull chain light, and pulling wires would have been impossible. The switches kits come with a switch and a receiver module.

The receiver module connects to your lighting circuit. You can pair multiple switches to one module, and you can pair multiple modules to a single switch. So one switch can control a lot of circuits.
 

Showkey

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I use the wall outlet switch version to control out door lighting.
4 of these and the app no hub required:

65C54455-A8B4-4B58-A62C-976A8F135995.png
 
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