1) I don't definitely know that Jacket #1 is not the other end of Jacket #4. It seems that way but I can't tell. I don't have a long enough set of cables for my multi-meter to check continuity from one end to the other.From this revised info:
1) You are saying Jacket #1 is not the other end of Jacket#4? (If it isn't the same, then there is another box unaccounted for.)
2) Draw in the cabling/connections for the floodlight. Show the floodlight and whatever cable it is connected to.
3) Need voltage test repeated with both switches (labeled) put in the chart and tested for each switch position.
2) I am unsure how the floodlight is completely wired in and I tried to only include what I know.
3) I've test both switches in all positions and combinations, and the black wire in the ceiling.
Updated graphic to reflect these tests but not for the above 1 and 2 since I don't yet have anything concrete. I'm happy to prove one way or the other and update so we are all on the same page.

I suppose the downside to a GFCI breaker on this circuit is the circuit will be very sensitive to small milliamp fluctuations and may nuisance trip. is that correct?I’m thinking I misread post 26. It does look like power hits switch box first. So a GFCI there can work.