Converting circular saw to Track Saw or rip jig

[03protege]

Hey guys,

I have an extra Makita 36v 7.25" (XSH01Z) circular saw and I would like to convert it to either a Track saw or a "rip-cut saw".

My first question is: Are any of the add-your-own circular to a track systems worth a damn? I would have no problem using set screws or modifying the saw base if necessary.

My second question is: Would a rip jig be better for my application? I plan on ripping some 3/8" plywood into 6-8" strips to do a faux shiplap look in a couple areas of the house, in other words A LOT OF CUTTING. I am assuming the rip jig would give me more repeatable results.

Thanks

 

[theoldwizard1]

My first question is: Are any of the add-your-own circular to a track systems worth a damn?

The real question is, are they worth the COST ! Probably NOT !!!

My second question is: Would a rip jig be better for my application? I plan on ripping some 3/8" plywood into 6-8" strips to do a faux shiplap look in a couple areas of the house, in other words A LOT OF CUTTING.

I think the real issue is getting a good solid work surface and clamping the plywood and guide to it.

Get yourself some decent sawhorses. Most of the one you can but are much too short. You want the top of the sawhorse to be 32-48" above ground. The top cross piece also needs to be 40-48" wide. Now get 4 - 2x4x8' and SCREW them down to the cross pieces, leaving 1-2' over hanging. Use C-clamps, F-clamps or quick bar clamps (that do NOT have plastic locking mechanisms) to clamp the plywood to the 2x4s.

The big advantage of store bought guides is that they can quickly and easily be reset for the next rip. This sounds like what you need.

 

[turbowoodworker]

I have a shop made guide and a commercial rail, neither are true track saws. I think the saws themselves are different than the standard circ saw but I'm not sure on that.

But holy smokes! Are you really considering 6-8" strips from 4x8 ply over and over and over? Unless you are doing a single 8' section, that is way lots of work. I would be looking at precut products of any kind before taking on that task. Not because I hate cutting ply sheets but because life is too short.

Not trying to rain on your parade but just my opinion, and you know what that is worth.

 

[4Kings]

I have one of these, works great.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p79/rip-cuttrade/

 

[Catadj78]

I have one of these, works great.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p79/rip-cuttrade/

I have the same thing. It is awesome!

 

[Git]

For me - a track saw was a game changer

If this is going to be a one time deal, one of the kreg jigs looks like it would work great

If your going to be working with sheet goods (plywood, etc) in the future, I would strongly recommend just buying a decent track saw. It doesn't have to be Festool, look at Dewalt or Makita

One of the main features of a true track saw - is called the 'splinter guard strip" Not only does it help with cutting down on splinters, when you first make a cut with the saw, it also cuts through the 'splinter guard' and now you know EXACTLY where the blade is going to cut. So you can just make 2 pencil marks on a sheet of plywood, slap the track saw down (aligned to the marks) and make your cut

Track saw = no more wrestling with 80 lb sheets of ply trying to get it through the table saw

 

[Stuart in MN]

Another one to consider is the EZ Track: http://www.eurekazone.com/category_s/2054.htm

 

[moparfreak]

I can speak from experience....

I've used a homemade rip guide using masonite which has worked awfully well for me over the years, though I wouldn't call it "precision". This coupled with a standard Skil-saw.

I also recently purchased a Grizzly track saw, which is a nice track saw but not as high end as the Dewalt / Makita / Festool. I must say I love it. Does a really nice job, better than my previous setup. For what I do it was worth it, I use it often and will continue to. Here's my thread where I got it and put a few comments in at the end once I got it and tried it out: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306832

 

[ADSR]

For ripping, I would just use a table saw and be done with it 10 times faster.

 

[Git]

For ripping, I would just use a table saw and be done with it 10 times faster.

This is 3/4" industrial grade mdf being ripped into 2" strips. The entire sheet weighs about 90 pounds. Just getting it up on to the table saw is a major pain in the ****. How is that easier than using a track saw (have you ever used a track saw?) And, I would be willing to bet the track saw produces straighter cuts

 

[ADSR]

This is 3/4" industrial grade mdf being ripped into 2" strips. The entire sheet weighs about 90 pounds. Just getting it up on to the table saw is a major pain in the ****. How is that easier than using a track saw (have you ever used a track saw?) And, I would be willing to bet the track saw produces straighter cuts

Depends of you're on the site or not. A table saw with a roller deck front and rear like a proper shop has, would eat that sheet for breakfast.

On site, I would just use a good straight edge.

You're not building a piano, just the house it will live in.

 

[Voi]

One of the main features of a true track saw - is called the 'splinter guard strip".

Another one to consider is the EZ Track: http://www.eurekazone.com/category_s/2054.htm

O3protege: As far as I know the Eurekazone is the only product that will give your a splinter guard (which I agree would be a good idea) and allow you to use your current Makita X2.

Since you have an extra you can set one up with the Eureka base plate and leave your other one as is.

I'd poke around on their forums and others to figure out the best track to get for your project. Many prefer one long track (vs ganging two shorter ones together) for ripping sheet goods and with substantial overhang on each end.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have one of these, works great.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p79/rip-cuttrade/

Looks good and REASONABLY priced !

A couple of minor issues.

• Relies on the factory edge and your cut edges for making subsequent cuts (in theory not an issue). Multiple cuts could introduce measurable stack up error.
• Can't cross cut plywood more than 24". No pieces 48" x larger than 24" and less than 48"

 

[tarbellb]

Depends of you're on the site or not. A table saw with a roller deck front and rear like a proper shop has, would eat that sheet for breakfast.

On site, I would just use a good straight edge.

You're not building a piano, just the house it will live in.

Sorry Lorddiesel, but this is a stretch. Even most nicely equipped wood shops dont have a sliding table saw laying around. And cutting ANY 4x8 sheet on nice 10" table saw is either inaccurate or dangerous & inaccurate. Believe me, ive done it.

But to chime in my opinion- 1st I would reconsider your construction method and go with a material that fits closer to what you need. Unless that material only comes in sheet?

If you have to cut it, the homemade tracks are nice enough. The Grizzly is good but limited depth, and the Festool, Dewalt, and Makita all ring about the same price ($500+). Pick your poison, nice thing about the Festool is resale is usually 80% or better.

 

[Sticks McGee]

typically if I am ripping a sheet down to usable size and have to rip it on the table saw it's a PITA so I rip the pieces a little bigger than what I need and then re-rip them to final size when ready so that I am then ripping smaller pieces as I agree that balancing a sheet of 3/4" ply or MDF on the saw is very tedious and inaccurate when I do it by myself. If I use a helper sometimes that works better, sometimes not. People in that position tend to want to "help" too much. Even a real nice outfeed set-up is only helpful to a point unless you have a nice big input table set up too. Ripping to slightly bigger and re-ripping in the OP situation would make waste and take way more time. I have used the masonite 8' straightedge I made a few times but with what the OP is doing the track saw would probably be quicker and more accurate. I am tuned into this too as I would love an alternative that wasn't too awful costly.

 

[guy48065]

FIRST--check your circ saw for arbor end-play and run-out. If it has ANY then forget using it like a track saw.

 

[PBCampbell]

Here's a couple more options I didn't see mentioned....
https://www.hartvilletool.com/product/5494/edge-guides
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=41707&cat=1,240,45313&ap=1

An anti-splinter guide is as easy as making a shoe sub base. The only thing that seems to be missing is the plunge capability.

 

[PBCampbell]

FIRST--check your circ saw for arbor end-play and run-out. If it has ANY then forget using it like a track saw.

If this is the case, place saw on firm surface and strike with largest sledge hammer and repeat a few times before placing in proper trash receptacle. This is a recipe for severe kick back and injury, edge guide or not.

 

[Toolfool]

This is 3/4" industrial grade mdf being ripped into 2" strips. The entire sheet weighs about 90 pounds. Just getting it up on to the table saw is a major pain in the ****. How is that easier than using a track saw (have you ever used a track saw?) And, I would be willing to bet the track saw produces straighter cuts

Depends on the operator's skill level. I personally would take that bet.

 

[Git]

Depends on the operator's skill level. I personally would take that bet.

LOL

Isn't it Woodworking 101 to cut off the factory edge of a sheet of ply to insure it is straight and clear of any knicks, or other damage? (unless your doing carpentry type work and then who cares)

How do you do that on the table saw EASILY or do you even bother doing it?

 

[ADSR]

Sorry Lorddiesel, but this is a stretch. Even most nicely equipped wood shops dont have a sliding table saw laying around. And cutting ANY 4x8 sheet on nice 10" table saw is either inaccurate or dangerous & inaccurate. Believe me, ive done it.

But to chime in my opinion- 1st I would reconsider your construction method and go with a material that fits closer to what you need. Unless that material only comes in sheet?

If you have to cut it, the homemade tracks are nice enough. The Grizzly is good but limited depth, and the Festool, Dewalt, and Makita all ring about the same price ($500+). Pick your poison, nice thing about the Festool is resale is usually 80% or better.

Been building homes, framing/finishing for over 12 years. You're not going to tell me some piece of poo'd out aluminum trac with a glorified skill saw is going to cut more accurately than a pro series table saw. That's just not going to happen.

I guess all the guys with a powermatic or good delta table saw here have no idea what they're doing

 

[Git]

Been building homes, framing/finishing for over 12 years. You're not going to tell me some piece of poo'd out aluminum trac with a glorified skill saw is going to cut more accurately than a pro series table saw. That's just not going to happen.

I guess all the guys with a powermatic or good delta table saw here have no idea what they're doing

I am not sure how we went from 'converting a circular saw to a track saw to a 'pro series' table saw (whatever that is) but let's try to reasonable.

This is "Garage Journal" not a woodworking forum. Most of the people here are working out of their garage and they really don't want all their space taken up by woodworking machines, nor do they care to spend the money on them. With a 'decent' tracksaw and some other tools, you can do a lot without having to have that 'pro-series' table saw of yester-year you are talking about with 8' of infeed table and another 8' of outfeed table.

And yes, I would tell you that when it comes to ripping 8' sheets of ply, unless you have an 8' or 10' sliding table saw, a 'poo'd' out track saw is going to do the job, easier and cheaper than a table saw, IMHO

 

[MO-Iron]

I have a 3hp Delta Unisaw in my shop, 5hp Unisaw in my son-in-laws shop and I also have a Makita tracksaw.
When working with 4 X 8 sheets, I find the track saw a little faster and a lot easier with equal cutting accuracy. People that don't think that a true tracksaw will make high quality cuts need to try one.

 

[ADSR]

The track saw is a great tool, don't get me wrong. But the bang for the buck factor and cut quality just isn't there. Remember, a skill saw cuts upwards, while a table saws cut is down. Having the table there also helps with the pull-out on expensive woods. When you can buy a used pro-series table saw on C/L for 250 - 350 bucks, it's hard to justify buying the track saw. If you don't have the space, buy the track saw. Taping your cuts will help reduce pull out. When I find a tracked system I like, I'll buy one for the job site.

 

[Sticks McGee]

Here is what I would do in your situation OP:

Get yourself a piece of masonite. Measure the width of your circular saw base. It's probably gonna fall somewhere around 6". On the piece of masonite snap a chalk line maybe 4" wider than your circular saw base and go ahead and use your circular saw to cut at the chalk line. If you can find yourself a piece of hardwood that is very straight you can use this. A couple of options would be to pick up at menards a piece of oak or maple. They have prepackaged pieces that are fairly straight and sanded on all four sides. You can get a piece that is 1/2" thick and 2-4 inches wide and 8' long. Glue and screw this piece to the masonite. Line the oak up with the factory edge of the masonite. make sure the masonite will be wider than your circular saw base. After that piece is glued and screwed into place set this onto a couple of saw horses or a very stable base then with your blade depth set deep enough and your saw base against the hardwood very carefully run down and cut your masonite off. Now you will have a straight edge that lines up perfectly with the blade on your saw. Set that edge on your marks, clamp it down and run your saw.

Important things to remember:

Make sure however you decide to make your straight edge that you have room to clamp it to your plywood without the clamps in the way of your saw. Clamp everything down so it will not move as you cut. Ensure that you have clearance everywhere you need to run the saw and that your cord is in a way that it will not tangle or get caught as you saw. Be able to concentrate on holding that saw against the straightedge the whole cut. Any distraction where you have to take your concentration off of that can result in your saw moving and getting off on the cut (getting half way across only to find the cord feeling tight and having to look away to see, or not having a clear path for your feet and you have to step around something like saw horse legs)

Make yourself a couple of blocks that correspond to the exact width you want to cut. (let's say 6") put a stop on the block so it will contact the edge of the plywood. To set up each cut put a stop at each end then run your straight edge right to the stop and clamp it down. This eliminates the need to measure or eyeball a line and keeps your cuts the same each time.

 

[tarbellb]

Lordy lordy lord.... Im afraid you have never actually seen a nice track saw in the wild. Thats OK, times will catch up to where you are.

Track saws were designed to cut sheet goods, or anything up to the 2-2.5" depth capacity. And they do it as clean and as any good table saw. Look up "splinter guard".

I used to install $100k kitchen cabinets, yes $100k in cabinets alone. We used a Festool on site and in the shop. If we blew out the top coat finish on a $1000 panel we would be set back 4 weeks ordering new one from EU.

Im not bagging on the cut quality of a nice table saw, those were made to do a multitude of things well. But breaking down sheets is not one of them.

Add to that the space a proper table saw takes up, most DIY guys dont have the space.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Why are you guys fighting with each other? It's not contributing to the original poster's question.

 

[Sal Bandini]

Remember, a skill saw cuts upwards, while a table saws cut is down. Having the table there also helps with the pull-out on expensive woods.

Good side up on table saw good side down on circular saw, same results.

You can put in zero clearance plate on table saw and the track saws have one as well, or you can make your own on circular saw, so this is not valid issue.


To OP, maybe make an 8 foot cutting guide that has stops at the width you want to cut so you just **** it against edge, cut, **** against new edge, repeat.

 

[guy48065]

Lordy lordy lord.... Im afraid you have never actually seen a nice track saw in the wild. Thats OK, times will catch up to where you are.

Track saws were designed to cut sheet goods, or anything up to the 2-2.5" depth capacity. And they do it as clean and as any good table saw...

I was once a doubter as well. Trimming one veneer door with a real track saw was enough to convince me.