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Coolant Pressure system for a DIYer

f575gtc

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Jul 14, 2013
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I work on family's, friend's and personal cars at my house, I don't do this for a living but I typically have at least 1 car at my house every few weeks so I don't need anything from Snapon or a north of $500 testing system. I already found myself needing to pressure test systems a few times.

I already own a UView 550000 Airlift Cooling system leak checker and vacuum / fill kit which works well for filling and checking for leaks but I am really interested in the Astro Pneumatic 78585 set because it tests radiator caps as well (just had a bad one on a car 2 weeks ago)

I do have a few questions, does testing the system with pressure vs pulling vacuum have any benefits? I am assuming with pressure you can test with the system full of coolant where as vacuum has the tendency of trying to **** out coolant and never seals properly (at least this is what I have seen).

Anyone have this? How is its build quality? I have seen some reviews on it and it looks like a well built tool, does the vacuum test work well? I have no issues with the airlift and this seems to be the same type of setup.

I am trying to justify a $200 purchase for a tool that kinda already does what a tool I already own is able to do with the exception of a few extra tests.

Thanks for any help!
 
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theoldwizard1

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The "gold standard" for cooling system pressure tester for over 50 years has been the Standt Pressure Test Kit. It is relabeled/remarketed by many companies.

IMHO, for a DIY person, an "air lift" cooling fill kit is over kill. Buy a Lisle Spill Free Funnel. FYI - any cooling system with a remote pressurized reservoir (most/all Ford products) can be fill and go; no purging.

Those 2 items together will be under $100.
 

American Locomotive

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Almost every parts store has a cooling system pressure tester you can rent for free. You already have a similar tool, and it's easy enough to just pop into your local autozone and pick one up the 1 time a year you need to pressure test a cooling system.
 

619DioFan

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I have a stant which works well. I bought a universal screw in adapter for it that covers a fair number of vehicles. it gets costly when you have to start buying extra adapters for specific vehicles. I also have the test kit from HF. comes with a lot of adapters but they are not usable with the stant kit. the HF kit works ok. just DIYer.
 

matt_i

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I do have a few questions, does testing the system with pressure vs pulling vacuum have any benefits? I am assuming with pressure you can test with the system full of coolant where as vacuum has the tendency of trying to **** out coolant and never seals properly (at least this is what I have seen).

The vacuum testing will eventually pull the hoses mostly flat which is going to displace & then **** out a lot of fluid.

Its the way a vehicle is filled at the assembly plant due to the cycle time requirements, pull vacuum, isolate and watch pressure decay, if within limits, inject the fluid, which in the absence of all air fills the entire system in 20+ seconds depending on the flow rate that's allowable from the mix tank.

Any pressure regulator that can reach down to ~15-20 psi is going to work for diagnosis. There can be pressures around 60psi if one goes WOT with engine cold and with an old outlet-side thermostat. Armed with air pressure, just pressurize, isolate, and read the decay on the gage. Imo should be able to hold 15psi static overnight.
 
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xlowxyotax88x

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Have the Astro kit at work it's a shop owned kit the guys that have a stant kit use this instead has all the adapters for whatever rolls in would highly recommend it
 

Fedwrench

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to me the major advantage offered by a pressure tester is that coolant will start streaming out of the leak location under pressure. With your vacuum type filler you just won't be able to achieve vacuum but, may not easily know the source of the leak. Being able to test radiator caps is also a huge plus.
The key with any tester is to ensure you have the adapters to cover the range of vehicles you work on. The adapters can get pricey.
i wouldn't second guess a pressure tester purchase. it will pay for itself quickly.
Just don't forget to maintain it once in awhile. a couple drops of oil in the hole on the pump housing, keep the adapters clean as dried coolant tends to corrode them. :beer:
 

Mechanical Noise

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How much is the HF kit?

$90 without a coupon. The HF kit has alot of adapters for screw on caps but uses a crappy "universal" type adapter for the common type caps. It kinda works but it's really cheesy.

There are similar 14 piece sets on ebay at a little more than half that price which looks like it has a proper adapter.

Ebay shows 28 piece sets for about the same price as the HF kit list price which not only look like they have the proper adapters but claim they can also do vacuum purges.

I have the HF set. I should have shopped around more.
 

Professional Tool User

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The "gold standard" for cooling system pressure tester for over 50 years has been the Standt Pressure Test Kit. It is relabeled/remarketed by many companies.

IMHO, for a DIY person, an "air lift" cooling fill kit is over kill. Buy a Lisle Spill Free Funnel. FYI - any cooling system with a remote pressurized reservoir (most/all Ford products) can be fill and go; no purging.

Those 2 items together will be under $100.

It depends on what application the OP is working on. There are certain cooling systems like Nissan that are pain to bleed where a vacuum filler may make a difference.
 
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f575gtc

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Jul 14, 2013
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Thanks for all the input, the HF kit is missing a few items I would like to have.

I mainly work on Subarus which are a pain to bleed properly so having the vacuum fill is very helpful.
 

Tallpilot

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Jan 13, 2017
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Orlando
I have the Astro kit and like it. I think it is worth the little extra compared to the HF kit.
 

xlowxyotax88x

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Nov 4, 2015
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Pressure is also better for finding pressurized leaks (ie cooling system) vacuum may not leak but pressure will. BTW I never use the vacufill I do tons of subies fill it run it till thermostat opens fill resivior 3 inches over full it'll be dead on after first good test drive and cool down.
 
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