Coolant Refill Tool

[babyjay8495]

I thought this was talked about a while ago, but i couldn't dig up the thread. Any suggestions on a tool that can do a coolant flush effectively and covers most cars. I was thinking about something like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RFLZPM/?tag=atomicindus08-20 but i'm skeptical if it works or not.

 

[billymade]

I have this one and it works well; it is re-badged under a number of the tool truck brands... it doesn't do a flush however... it works well refilling and removing air pockets from the blocks of many of the newer cars. The other issue is that this runs on compressed air; you need a compressor/air availability to use this tool. The only negatives about the tool are the gage is delicate and so is the valve... I broke both but were replaced under warranty... the Snap-On version has a rubber jacket/protector around the gage and the valve was easily replaced with a hardware store brass valve.

UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRH5G/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=550000

They have a cheaper version as well:

UVIEW 550500 AirLift II Economy Cooling System Refiller


http://www.uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=550500

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IHK1VI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[babyjay8495]

that's pretty much what i'm looking for. I'm assuming this will work on GM vehicles that have the sealed off radiator and only able to use the overflow tank? I have a 60 gallon compressor in my garage, which would work just fine for me. Looks like you just drain the radiator and blow the air through the system if i'm correct and it just pumps it back in?

 

[billymade]

It uses vacuum and then ***** the coolant back in and eliminates all the air pockets; works very fast and gets the job done! The sealed off systems and those where the block is higher then the radiator is just the type of issues that this tool works with, my vw beetle was the reason I bought this tool. Some cars, it is almost impossible to get the air pockets out of the block; fixed the issue on my 1.8T when I swapped out the water pump.

 

[fordbroncodave]

i'm going to be posting up a mac tools coolant refil tool that utilizes air power. it extracts and fills. new in case never used but the box is really dirty. for sale

 

[ATTappman]

What air pressure and flow rate are required to make the thing work? The Uview web site doesn't say.

I had no idea such a tool existed - thanks for posting the links.

 

[jwx]

I've used the air lift type ones before. I love them. One of those tools that I keep wanting to buy even now that I don't turn wrenches professionally anymore. Just seems like a good tool to have at home when you have to do any cooling system work.

 

[billymade]

I don't know for sure; I use a large shop air compressor but according to the amazon.com reviews... someone was using it will a small one!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRH5G/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[cheap bastard]

I saw a freind use an Airlift unit yesterday. That was a n effective, fast way to fill a cooling system. I will buy one.

 

[bgott]

I just bought an Airlift, I've been using a co- worker's Blue Point. They work great.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=12500&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://www.tooltopia.com/uview-550000.aspx

The Snappy takes 90 PSI/ 4.2 CFM, I believe the Uview takes the same, I don't have my booklet here to double check that.

The only problem with the vacuum refillers is that it is rare, but possible, to collapse weak components of a cooling system with one. I have a friend that had a heater core fail after vacuuming down the system once. Rare, but possible. I've screwed stuff up by pressure testing many times before so the risk is probably the same.

 

[babyjay8495]

Just an update i went and bought the airlift version, seems awesome. Probably a dumb question, but i suppose you should do the coolant swap when the engine is hot? i ask because i did it on a cold motor this morning, drained the radiator and after i performed the task realized i didn't get any out of the block because the thermostat is closed. Next time get the car hot and then do it i assume?

 

[wantedabiggergarage]

Personally, I avoid working with hot coolant when possible. Too many idiots just open the cap.

I remove the lower radiator hose and drain it that way. That also helps keep out issues, if you see stop leak draining out (not good for the tool).

 

[Stick]

Just an update i went and bought the airlift version, seems awesome. Probably a dumb question, but i suppose you should do the coolant swap when the engine is hot? i ask because i did it on a cold motor this morning, drained the radiator and after i performed the task realized i didn't get any out of the block because the thermostat is closed. Next time get the car hot and then do it i assume?

Hot or cold doesn't matter, you will need to drain the block to completely flush the coolant. On some engines, you can just pop off the lower radiator hose, on others you will need to find the block drain plug that is usually next to a freeze plug. When you go to refill the system, make sure the heater control is set to hot, so you fill the heater core as well.

 

[RAYJAY]

i have this one here works great fast and simple i should of spent the xtra money and bought the full set they have

MV4535 Cooling System AirEvac Kit

The Mityvac MV4535 Cooling System AirEvac Kit refills automotive cooling systems in minutes without trapping air that can cause overheating. The kit combines a universal adapter with a compressed-air-operated venturi vacuum to quickly eliminate trapped air by purging and refilling the cooling system under vacuum. Its new innovative design allows improved access into tight areas, and the patent pending valve coupler allows the operator to test the cooling system for leaks prior to refilling.

 

[scbird94]

I have used lots of these, and they work in their prime when doing a large job- water pump, radiator, lower hose, etc. If your just changing a tstat it cant build enough vaccum to work. In those cases, the spill free funnel is best to burp em.

As far as the vaccum fillers go, snap on's is the best i have used. The one MAC tools sold/sells (few years ago) is absolute garbage.

 

[nexum1919]

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-24610.aspx

Spill-free funnel should be more than enough for home use, yet alone shop use... Some helpful tips: Fill it up the funnel high, massage the hoses, open up bleeders if you have them, rev up the engine couple of times, even tap on the water pump or tsat housing to dislodge the stuck bubbles... Of course don't forget the turn the heater to all the way hot if your heater system has a heater valve.

 

[Mattallison12]

I just found a blue point vacum filler with a snap on pressure test and the snap on adapter set on eBay for $250 I'm a diesel mechanic I work on tractor trailer so i don't have too much trouble with air in the system like you guys but this will definitely help when I work on 6.0s also easier then carrying 5 gallon buckets up a ladder to fill up a truck. Typical semi takes 15 gallons so hopefully this makes my life a whole lot easier.

 

[Pipe]

I'm struggling to spend the extra from snapon for the lifetime service or pick up the uview from amazon or tooltopia. hmmmm

 

[HighPlainsWrencher]

I bought the air lift off tooltopia made by Uview. I've compared it to Snap on's and it looks identical, the Snap On has a slightly different gauge is all. I've used it more on hydraulic systems than I have cooling. It works great.

 

[Rt jam]

I find hot and cold cycle will eventually get the air out. Hot coolant expands and makes it's way to the reservoir and when it's cold it will take from the reservoir. This to and from action pushes air out and coolant in.

The first one is not always successful if the thermostat is not seeing hot coolant because the engine is so empty it's only air at the thermostat but if you are past that, hot and cold cycles will rid of all air.

 

[djbmw]

For a coolant 'refill tool' .... I just use a big funnel, similar to the spill-free funnel mentioned above, but without any adapters. Just shove it it, and it always forms a good seal. If I want to remove it while there is still coolant in there, I put a nitrile glove over a screwdriver handle and drop the handle into the funnel to temporarily plug it.

As for flushing the old coolant out; use a garden hose to flush the radiator, then connect it to your heater core, followed by the rest of your cooling system. This way you prevent any gunk from your heater core or rad from getting into your block... and you can back-wash it too.

 

[Schurkey]

This is all I need:

and
the Lisle spill-free funnel.

Yes, I pull the block and radiator drains to empty the flushwater.