cooling pipe question ?

[sweetk30]

so i am not sure were to put this question but figure here would do since it involves cooling and heat .

i have a old dump truck with rubber hose connections with a steel pipe in the middle and the pipe is getting a bit old and pitted . before it pops out a pin hole is there a product i can coat the inside with to help seal it up ?

i have soaked the pipe 24hr's in CLR and got almost all the old stuff out and even wire wheeled the inside on a drill and long reach tool .

this truck has a 5 year only cooling system and was not popular in its layout so parts are kind of rare .

only other option i could think of is a local exhaust shop whip me up a new set of pipes but then how long would they last with anti-freeze mix in them ? and how would i get the lip on them for the hose and clamp to bit on to stay on the pipe ?

thanks for any help guys .

 

[Wrench97]

Back in the early 90's we did a bunch of 6v53 to 8.2l conversions using fabricated exhaust tubing for coolant pipes the inside was not a problem using good coolant we painted the outside lasted the 5 - 8 years we kept the trucks.

Another option would be to have them powered coated inside and out.

What year/model truck?

 

[bored350]

Can we get some pics of the part and estimated dimensions. I think I have a pretty good idea of what it looks like; it doesn't side like it would be hard to fab a new and improved part.

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[sweetk30]

1988 gmc 7000 28k gvw with air brakes and 366 gas tall deck big block chevy with air compressor on driver side head for air brakes and it has coolant flowing threw it and pressurized oil feed and drain to it .

these are the upper and lower radiator hose tubes . there is rubber sections on each end . i painted the outside today after i cleaned them the best i could in clr for almost 24 soak time .

this truck has 66k original limes on it from the south . but someone ran water in it after they snapped off the pressure tank fitting for the radiator and it was boiling out the water faster than they could keep it in the engine . they cooked the engine so bad the block head surface is blued like a rifle barrel and the heads are cracked and seats and guides dropping out . there was aluminum melted off all the pistons .

then it sat with some water left in the bottom of the pipes for a few years so the rust was in there a little bit along with all the burnt / caked in minerals .

i finally found a new super low miles gm reman engine for it as this is a 5 year only engine and only if it had air brake option for the air compressor .

then with the engine being so weird and hard to find the radiator system is the odd ball also . its a pressure tank on top of the rad with the cap on it NOT the tank of the radiator . i had the local radiator repair shop hot tank it / clean it / fix the fittings on it that were broken off / and pressure test the radiator and tank and were all good to go .

here is a few pics of my pipes . i would have new made if we had a decent exhaust shop around but there all back woods hack shops that would not understand or want to touch it . then i would need a way to roll a bead in the pipe on the ends .

also i plan to install a coolant filter inline with the smaller hoses of the cooling system to filter out any junk there might be in the system from the old engine problem . its a real spin on coolant filter from a diesel engine med duty truck i found in the junk yard . and i made sure to get the correct filter only spin on for it .

 

[Jim greengo]

Let me know if you're going to scrap the old 366,I'd buy some parts off of it from you.

 

[sweetk30]

the old engine is so cooked its not funny . the 1 head jumped up 2x 1 for each of the last 2 bolts to pull it in reverse torque pattern .

what do you think you want ? ?

i do have a 2nd engine also that turned out to be no good with cyl #1 full of rain water and locked up . so between the 2 i might have what you need ?

 

[Jim greengo]

the old engine is so cooked its not funny . the 1 head jumped up 2x 1 for each of the last 2 bolts to pull it in reverse torque pattern .

what do you think you want ? ?

i do have a 2nd engine also that turned out to be no good with cyl #1 full of rain water and locked up . so between the 2 i might have what you need ?

Main caps ,any good rods and crank if it's not smoked.
The steel drive shaft for oil pump also.
No need to worry about taking pistons off rods,I'll have them pressed off at machine shop.
Let me know what you want for them plus shipping.
Thanks.jim

 

[bored350]

Other than the small *******, those are fairly straight forward sizes/bends. They appear to be 2" pipes on a sweeping 90° and/or 45° bend? with a tweak at the end of one pipe. The beads are a standard roll and easily duplicated. Obviously, we can't see what you can from the pipe pics, but I've seen much worse still holding pressure. Frankly, if I was going to go through the trouble of duplicating them, I would make them from stainless pre-bent pipe and have the beads rolled. Any decent fab shop could roll the beads and weld the ******* as well as **** welding the tweak on the end. Unfortunately, I don't own a bead roller, so I can't make them for you but I'm certain there are several people on this site that would be willing to help you out.

Whatever you decide, I wouldn't powdercoat the inside. I've seen powdercoat erode away in chips and flakes and plug up radiators and heater cores in similar applications. Most quality coolants have a corrosion inhibiter to prevent the problems you are concerned about.

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[sweetk30]

they have some decent pitting inside . my old phone dont take good close up pics sorry . there thick wall stuff . i was just looking to see if there was something to use easy . otherwise i will run it and see what we get .

thanks for all the help guys . and i see your parts pm and replied back .