copper airline fittings?

[redline9k]

I am working up what I need to piece together for my copper airline system in my garage.

First off, I have a 60gal IR tank. Should I run 3/4 or will 1/2 copper suffice? I think my biggest air hog for now is a fairly efficient HVLP spraygun at about 8 or 9 CFM.

I am planning 60' overhead line with 4 drops around the shop. What connectors are you using at the end of those drops to connect to individual coil hoses? I would imagine I am looking for some sort of quick-disconnect that I can sweat to copper, but I cant seem to find anything like that, but i could just not be looking in the right place...

Also - Any special requirements to run a branch through an external wall so that I can easily have air outside as well?

Thanks

Doug

 

[mikeyr]

I have never seen a quick-disconnect that you could sweat on, just a threaded part that you sweat on and the disconnect, that gives you the advantage of changing them too. I always go for 3/4 in my pipes, cost difference is minor and its a one time expense for a long time of use.

 

[redline9k]

ah, that makes more sense...sweat on a drop ear elbow and then screw on a quick disconnect...i knew something wasnt adding up...

Im fine with 3/4 price, just thinking that fittings/hose are probably the limiter no matter how big you make the main lines...

thanks

 

[tatra]

be sure to incorporate a drain at each drop and i would also put in a tee for future expansion, options..........as for quik connects, we use oetiker swing connctors at work and love em........


http://www.oetiker.com/content.asp?l=4&idNavig=8

 

[G-force]

Shark bite fitting work well but are expensive. I have a few in my system for making quick and easy changes if necessary in the future. 100% leak proof so far. Over 100'.

 

[pcmeiners]

Run you piping through this calculator, there will be a difference between 1/2 and 3/4, go for the 3/4"; Also if you can get wide sweep elbows versus standard els, go for them.
For the calculator, choose sanitary lines and drawn tubing in the calculator, and change Flow rate=SCFM which would be the closest to copper line loses.
To go to the extreme, get 1" full flow valves, reduce them to 3/4" which would give minimal losses per valve. Same thing with regulators and filters, 1" regulators and filters give minimal lose. This is more important with higher SCFM than 10.

"that I can sweat to copper, but I cant seem to find anything like that, but i could just not be looking in the right place..."
Get a sweat to thread adapter for the threaded quik connects.


http://www.freecalc.com/gasfram.htm

 

[MichaelP]

Doug,

Check my reply here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78201&highlight=quick+disconnect. Also folow the link I mentioned there.

 

[ddawg16]

I did all mine in 3/4"......and used the comercial stuff (M I think?) It makes the T's where you have a drop a bit more stiff....I can pop hoses on and off with no issues.

Like mentioned above....sweat on 3/4" to 1/2" threaded reducer....I use males....and then female couplers.

Here is a pic of one of my ceiling drops.

Side note....I placed the hose real at the front of the garage...my wife uses it as much as I do....one of the best things I did.

 

[birchbark]

just finished my shop air lines. ran 1/2'' copper throughout.longest run is approx 60 ft. for the drops i used a tee with what we call in the plumbing industry as a vent bushing. you can solder it into any 1/2" copper fitting and has a 1/4" internal pipe thread that you can use to connect all your quick connect fittings that are 1/4" pipe thread.also a good idea to add a drain at each drop to blow out any condensate that will accumulate in the lines.