I don't know that this is really a "how-to", but I'll put some pictures here and maybe leave a few bits of info about my installation. Big thanks go out to everyone who answered all my copper airline questions back in April, when I THOUGHT I'd get to do this project.
1. Like everything else, it took longer than I planned to get this done. The 10 trips to Lowe's didn't help! This took about a week's worth of 6-8 hour days. It was somewhat unnerving to not really be able to pressurize the system untilI was basically done. I had sweated pipes only one other time in my life so I wasn't 100% confident the system wouldn't be super-leaky when I finally got to test it. Every joint I sweated, I muttered "I hope this doesn't leak".
2. I used schedule "L" copper, lead-free solder and flux, regular propane "Benzomatic" torch. I did NOT find myself wishing I had MAPP gas. The brass ball valves took a little longer to heat up, but even those were only a minute or two. The main feeds are 3/4" and the drops are 1/2" Regular fittings fit "Schedule L" copper. The inputs to my filter/regulators were 3/8". It may not be obvious in the pictures, but the entire system is angled to run water back towards the tank.
3. 70+ joints sweated, only one tank of gas required! I assembled and sweated on the ground/in my vise as much as possible, then mounted to ceiling/wall. I think I only sweated 3 joints against a wall.
4. My general procedure: after measuring and cutting a piece, I'd wipe it down using a paper towel lightly misted with 50/50 water/rubbing alcohol, then use emory cloth on the pipe, and a wire brush specially sized for 3/4" or 1/2" on the fittings. Clean just until copper shines, not enough to change size of fitting or pipe. Brush both surfaces liberally with paste flux. (Keep the garbage out of the flux! At one point I noticed I was getting trash in my joints from brushing the flux on- over time you brush flux into joints that have already been sweated once, then double-dip the flux and get **** in there) Push together and sweat.
5. The flex line at tank is actually hydraulic line good to 3000 fluid psi. I had a local hardware store make it for me.
-The wooden spacers behind the pipe are a)to promote cooling by allowing air to circulate all the way around the pipe, and b)one the ceiling, to obtain the proper uphill slant.
-I know the area for water to collect at the main water drain (where the line first enters the building) is not very big. I wanted as long a run as possible between the tank and my first drop.
-Each drop has it's own regulator(OK, so I'm missing one for right now). Each drop has 4 filtered outputs, two regulated, and two full pressure. I've left tees on each end of the system in case I want to run additional lines later.
I've got some leaks to fix, but they seem to be located at fittings on these regulator/filters, NOT in the sweated joints. I've been over the whole thing with a bottle of soapy water and have yet to find a leak related to my joints. Who-hoo!
1. Like everything else, it took longer than I planned to get this done. The 10 trips to Lowe's didn't help! This took about a week's worth of 6-8 hour days. It was somewhat unnerving to not really be able to pressurize the system untilI was basically done. I had sweated pipes only one other time in my life so I wasn't 100% confident the system wouldn't be super-leaky when I finally got to test it. Every joint I sweated, I muttered "I hope this doesn't leak".
2. I used schedule "L" copper, lead-free solder and flux, regular propane "Benzomatic" torch. I did NOT find myself wishing I had MAPP gas. The brass ball valves took a little longer to heat up, but even those were only a minute or two. The main feeds are 3/4" and the drops are 1/2" Regular fittings fit "Schedule L" copper. The inputs to my filter/regulators were 3/8". It may not be obvious in the pictures, but the entire system is angled to run water back towards the tank.
3. 70+ joints sweated, only one tank of gas required! I assembled and sweated on the ground/in my vise as much as possible, then mounted to ceiling/wall. I think I only sweated 3 joints against a wall.
4. My general procedure: after measuring and cutting a piece, I'd wipe it down using a paper towel lightly misted with 50/50 water/rubbing alcohol, then use emory cloth on the pipe, and a wire brush specially sized for 3/4" or 1/2" on the fittings. Clean just until copper shines, not enough to change size of fitting or pipe. Brush both surfaces liberally with paste flux. (Keep the garbage out of the flux! At one point I noticed I was getting trash in my joints from brushing the flux on- over time you brush flux into joints that have already been sweated once, then double-dip the flux and get **** in there) Push together and sweat.
5. The flex line at tank is actually hydraulic line good to 3000 fluid psi. I had a local hardware store make it for me.
-The wooden spacers behind the pipe are a)to promote cooling by allowing air to circulate all the way around the pipe, and b)one the ceiling, to obtain the proper uphill slant.
-I know the area for water to collect at the main water drain (where the line first enters the building) is not very big. I wanted as long a run as possible between the tank and my first drop.
-Each drop has it's own regulator(OK, so I'm missing one for right now). Each drop has 4 filtered outputs, two regulated, and two full pressure. I've left tees on each end of the system in case I want to run additional lines later.
I've got some leaks to fix, but they seem to be located at fittings on these regulator/filters, NOT in the sweated joints. I've been over the whole thing with a bottle of soapy water and have yet to find a leak related to my joints. Who-hoo!
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) but 2 threaded connectiongs have a very slight leak... Im talking like 5psi over a few hours.
That's quite nice to hear, I spent a lot of time on that page. It's sadly out of date now, but at the time I created it my inspiration was to produce something different than the typical "before and after" page of pictures. (And yes, actually I do "do" computers for a living- Windows desktop and LAN support)
