Copper flashing under siding?

[FNM]

Hey all

Had my siding done a while back and they used copper flashing where it meets a stone facia at the bottom. I recently decided to extend the facia around the side of the garage but didn’t notice or discuss about putting any flashing in.

my question is (although I don’t need the extra work), should I remove the bottom piece of siding and install 90 degree copper under it?

Assuming being left without flashing this is no good the way it was left in that snow etc will rot it or am I worried about nothing?

Copper shows the front of the garage and the second pic shows how the side was left. Not sure I can get the siding guys out as they are slammed so this would be a ‘me’ job

 

[PoorUB]

It needs flashing.

 

[FNM]

Thanks, thought that might be the case…

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Is there any cant on that ledge cap? It looks rather flat; which in-turn means that flashing really isn’t doing anything.

Same with the new construction- the ledge cap looks flat. Adding flashing like the previous isn’t really going to do anything. If the flashing completely covered the ledge, and had a drip edge over the front edge of the ledge cap, then it would be “properly flashed”.

If the ledge cap has 25-30* of slope- it probably wouldn’t need flashing because it would shed water quickly.

 

[smschriefer]

Another thing to note is that when they put the flashing the siding is raised .25 inch and without is in contact with the surface. Not sure what type of siding it is, but it shouldn't be in contact with the ground, due to water rot.

 

[Bert_]

Is there any cant on that ledge cap? It looks rather flat; which in-turn means that flashing really isn’t doing anything.

Same with the new construction- the ledge cap looks flat. Adding flashing like the previous isn’t really going to do anything. If the flashing completely covered the ledge, and had a drip edge over the front edge of the ledge cap, then it would be “properly flashed”.

If the ledge cap has 25-30* of slope- it probably wouldn’t need flashing because it would shed water quickly.

Looks flat to me too. Also the siding should be up off the stone a little

 

[FNM]

Thank you. I have a pitch measurer and it’s dead flat (0 degrees). Does that change my options - do I have to have a drip edge? Totally get the logic of the edge but ideally wouldn’t want to cover the whole ledge in copper as that’d really look bizarre in terms of cosmetics.

added an overhead picture

I thought the same as well that when that bottom piece is out I may have to rip it a little to create that gap.

 

[FNM]

Also the siding is cedar if that helps

 

[cmandp]

Even if the stone had a slope you'd want a slight gap and small angled flashing under the clapboard and over the stone to keep water from sitting there. Really I'd like the stone to have a slight slope to keep water from being ble to get under the flashing.

 

[FNM]

Sounds like to do this properly I’ve got to get the mason out to re-angle the stone. On a plus might be easier to get the flashing in if they have to take it off.

 

[tarmy]

angle the new flashing installed as well…get some slope on that area…carry the flashing over the cement area and provide a drip edge. You can see mine here…

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Sounds like to do this properly I’ve got to get the mason out to re-angle the stone. On a plus might be easier to get the flashing in if they have to take it off.

Yep- you got some work ahead! Hopefully you can pin the mason to the wall (pun intended!) for an incorrect installation. If he can give you 20-30* on that ledge cap you should use regular flashing cut to size. it will need a little massaging on the angle (because regular flashing is bent to 90* and you need about 70*. Then the bottom edge of the wood siding should be 1-1/2" (cementuous siding only requires 3/4") above the surface of the ledge. Also, don't forget the starter course on the siding- cornice&siding crews are notorious for not doing a starter course/strip- making the first course look flat.

A couple of examples-
https://www.allthingsstone.com/ca-en/wp-content/uploads/resources/manufactured-stone-veneer/cultured-stone/CSI-Cultured-Stone®-Drawings-Cross-Sections.pdf (fig. 6)
Or-

 

[FNM]

Thanks so much - I called the mason and he is coming back to look at angling the stone. I found a pic of where it was originally angled down but when they reinstalled they flattened the lot. He told me he stands by his work so hoping to put this down to an error.

looking at the 90 degrees copper. I found some at ‘roofingdirect’ though looks like I need to join it as one side is 9ft and they sell in 5ft so now trying to work out how to do that (if it’s solder etc). One answer got another question created it seems

I’m making progress, thanks to all who took the time to answer.. very appreciated and very glad I asked!

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Thanks so much - I called the mason and he is coming back to look at angling the stone. I found a pic of where it was originally angled down but when they reinstalled they flattened the lot. He told me he stands by his work so hoping to put this down to an error.

looking at the 90 degrees copper. I found some at ‘roofingdirect’ though looks like I need to join it as one side is 9ft and they sell in 5ft so now trying to work out how to do that (if it’s solder etc). One answer got another question created it seems

I’m making progress, thanks to all who took the time to answer.. very appreciated and very glad I asked!

Just overlap it 3-4"-
I wouldn't make a mountain out of a mole hill!

 

[cmandp]

If the mason will fix that for free I'd take him up on it. But you could probably get away with making a cap from the flashing to fully cover the stone. But that won't look as good I don't think.

 

[FNM]

Agree.. I think he’ll come back we’ve already discussed a load more work so would be in his best interest to

that’s good to know you can overlap! Was thinking to sick a water membrane tape between the two pieces as a quick and easy but doesn’t sound like I need to.

does that flashing need nailing in or it sits behind and the siding is the securing piece? Would love to just slide it behind rather than start removing siding if I can

 

[Neggy]

nobody wants flashing over the stone cap, but unless you have enough of an angle to guarantee the water will run off and not allow water to be blown in or run back in you will get water behind the stone.

I would have carried the flashing from behind the lowest board , out over the cap and then bent so it runs OFF the stone ledge (edge of the flashing past the bottom of the stone) and not under the ledge and back in on the underside

Once copper weathers you'll never notice it

 

[FNM]

Yeh going to see what they can do in terms of angle and go from there. I’ll ask for the 20-30 range as recommended

 

[Bert_]

I would think 30* is a lot. Nothing wrong with it though. 10-15* is the old standard for window and door sills.

A small amount of water isn't a big deal. The stone itself will wick some water to the inside. Just need to make sure the water has a path out.

 

[FNM]

Thank you. Have no idea what it was before but could clearly see ‘a pitch’ before I had the facia redone