Copper hammer vs brass hammer
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I think copper is softer than brass. Isn't brass copper and tin? For a tool that you buy for softness, I would think copper would be better. Is there a huge price difference?
Other option of course is a dead blow. I prefer those I think to a solid hammer when I want a controlled impact. Steel faced dead blow probably performs a lot like a copper hammer, only better. (Guessing). I just bought some new Trusty Cooks for carpentry. My favorite dead blows are Snap On hands down.
Other option of course is a dead blow. I prefer those I think to a solid hammer when I want a controlled impact. Steel faced dead blow probably performs a lot like a copper hammer, only better. (Guessing). I just bought some new Trusty Cooks for carpentry. My favorite dead blows are Snap On hands down.
Small sprockets on shafts
Most people I see have brass. Maybe cheaper?
whateg01
Well-known member
Brass can work harden. When it does it can leave dents in softer steel. I prefer copper or lead now.
LopezBart
Well-known member
If you have access to some scrap lead, a lead dead blow hammer is really nice and easy to cast.
KnurledNut
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2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
My go-to is a Snap-on, which is actually bronze, and has been holding up great. Much better life than the cheapo brass hammer I have, and have used. I bought it thinking a USA made brass hammer isn't wildly less expensive than snap-on during a sale, and after one replacement I would be in the black. I have had to dress the tips once on the hammer thus far, but it's been holding up great. My generic chinese brass hammer has much less use, and has needed much more attention to the tips, since it's softer.
For most daily use, I prefer 8-12" brass punches, 3/4 diameter. I can crush on one of these with my usual 4lb sledge but still get the benefits of brass. I buy USA made ones from various brands from HJE. They're impressively cheap, and I get many years of service from them.
For most daily use, I prefer 8-12" brass punches, 3/4 diameter. I can crush on one of these with my usual 4lb sledge but still get the benefits of brass. I buy USA made ones from various brands from HJE. They're impressively cheap, and I get many years of service from them.
scooby074
Well-known member
We had lead ones at a past job. Great thing about them is you buy the mold then you can recast them infinite times.
A lot of places wont allow that these days, Myself, I have brass hammers and punches. Plus replaceable face hammers has taken over for what used to demand copper, brass and lead. I have 2 replaceable face hammers. One is a Osca (italian) with Nylon faces and my better one is a heavier German made Halder Simplex. Plus I have standard deadblows too
A lot of places wont allow that these days, Myself, I have brass hammers and punches. Plus replaceable face hammers has taken over for what used to demand copper, brass and lead. I have 2 replaceable face hammers. One is a Osca (italian) with Nylon faces and my better one is a heavier German made Halder Simplex. Plus I have standard deadblows too
Dave455
Well-known member
I’ve used them both over the years.
Pretty much favour the copper now, as generally I’m hitting something I don’t want to damage, but I’ve got a couple of brass ones I really like - a big old brass mallet that belonged to my grandfather, and a small brass hammer I made myself.
As regards makers (I’ll say maker rather than brand, as they manufacture for several brands) I favour Thor over everything else.
Partly because they are made in the U.K. where I am, which keeps prices down.
Partly because of the variety on offer, and partly due simply to the quality.
They offer three styles of copper hammer. Cast iron with replaceable copper faces, round head, or square head.
They are also available with wooden, nylon, or glass fibre handles.
I generally prefer the cast iron style (which seem to hit harder than you expect) and have these in about 5 sizes from 1” (face diameter) up to a massive 2 3/4” sledge hammer that I bought surplus.
The square head has some uses in metalworking if you need to work up to an edge or into a corner.
For workshop use I prefer the wooden handles, but tend to go for the nylon for my road box.
I believe that Thor are distributed in the U.S. by Vaughan, although I don’t think they offer the whole range.
Pretty much favour the copper now, as generally I’m hitting something I don’t want to damage, but I’ve got a couple of brass ones I really like - a big old brass mallet that belonged to my grandfather, and a small brass hammer I made myself.
As regards makers (I’ll say maker rather than brand, as they manufacture for several brands) I favour Thor over everything else.
Partly because they are made in the U.K. where I am, which keeps prices down.
Partly because of the variety on offer, and partly due simply to the quality.
They offer three styles of copper hammer. Cast iron with replaceable copper faces, round head, or square head.
They are also available with wooden, nylon, or glass fibre handles.
I generally prefer the cast iron style (which seem to hit harder than you expect) and have these in about 5 sizes from 1” (face diameter) up to a massive 2 3/4” sledge hammer that I bought surplus.
The square head has some uses in metalworking if you need to work up to an edge or into a corner.
For workshop use I prefer the wooden handles, but tend to go for the nylon for my road box.
I believe that Thor are distributed in the U.S. by Vaughan, although I don’t think they offer the whole range.
Rusted Nut
Well-known member
I have several different sizes of these Vaughn soft face hammer, work great. You can really smack things with the hard face in the bigger size, never marks anything.
SF12 12 OZ Soft Face Hammer
SF12 12 OZ Soft Face Hammer. Forged steel head with rust-resistant powder coat finish lends force to blows. Supplied with two faces - soft (red) and hard (yellow). Hardwood handle. "Sure-Lock™" wedged.
www.vaughanmfg.com
neophyte
Well-known member
The term “Bronze” is technically used for any alloy that is a majority copper, with other alloying elements added to increase hardness or corrosion resistance, or other properties.
Most people, however use the term “Bronze” to refer to copper that has been alloyed with tin, since tin was the major alloying element used for copper for centuries.
“Brass” is traditionally used to refer to “Bronze Alloys) that use Zinc, as the alloying element.
Both terms have gotten somewhat confused due to later alloys, that might not be “Tin Bronze” or “Zinc Brass”, but which use “Brass” or “Bronze” as the “Metal Alloy Name”, since the metals have similar properties in one way or another, to traditional Tin/Bronze, or Zinc/Brass alloys.
Appearance wise, Alloys labelled “Bronze” usually have an oranger color, closer to the color of Copper, whereas alloys labelled “Brass’ have a brighter yellower color.
As for “hardness” it really depends on the alloy, and the way the alloy was processed.
Copper, Bronze and Brass can all work harden, becoming harder as the metal gets deformed.
The raw hammers can also cold rolled or hard drawn to help maximize hardness.
Some alloys can also be put thru heat treatments, similar to steel alloys, to maximize hardness.
Generally though, copper will be softer than brass.
Brass will probably be softer than Bronze, but it really depends on the bronze alloy.
The brass hammer would be the least dense of the alloys. Bronze would be less dense than pure or nearly pure copper, but the densities of some bronze alloys are near the density of copper.
If you are unsure of what type of material you need, maybe purchase a split head mallet, and a set of various faces, and then just see what works best as far as hardness, and density.
Garland, Wiha, Thor, etc. all make hammers/mallets, that can use interchangeable faces.
Copper, rawhide, various densities of plastic, etc. are all face options, and I believe the faces are made from standard diameter rounds, so other faces can be made using other materials.
seber
Well-known member
Brass works well for me in four different sizes. If I need softer, I don't need to go copper. Dead blow and replaceable head soft hammers work for that. I also have a lead hammer somewhere but dead blows replaced that decades ago.
Zeus36
Well-known member
A bit on the small side, but I decided to try both copper and brass hammer faces.
bwringer
Well-known member
One of my prized possessions is a massive, ugly, copper hammer I found lying in a puddle of grease and oil under a bunch of junk in my Dad's driveway after he passed.
It's at least five pounds, and it's just the ticket for administering a thunderous thwack without marring steel. For example, I've used it for installing lower steering stem bearing races in motorcycles, which is otherwise incredibly awkward because you're trying to hammer upwards. After soaking in that puddle of ancient grunge for who knows how long, the wood handle is pretty much invulnerable. I love the horrible thing -- it's one of my favorite tools and memories of Dad.
In order of increasing hardness, I also have a brass hammer and some brass drifts, as well as a bronze hammer. (And of course all the softer stuff, plastic, urethane, rubber, assorted deadblows, etc.) All have their separate use cases.
No matter what you're doing, having a wide assortment of thumpery options on hand is the mark of the well-established workspace.
It's at least five pounds, and it's just the ticket for administering a thunderous thwack without marring steel. For example, I've used it for installing lower steering stem bearing races in motorcycles, which is otherwise incredibly awkward because you're trying to hammer upwards. After soaking in that puddle of ancient grunge for who knows how long, the wood handle is pretty much invulnerable. I love the horrible thing -- it's one of my favorite tools and memories of Dad.
In order of increasing hardness, I also have a brass hammer and some brass drifts, as well as a bronze hammer. (And of course all the softer stuff, plastic, urethane, rubber, assorted deadblows, etc.) All have their separate use cases.
No matter what you're doing, having a wide assortment of thumpery options on hand is the mark of the well-established workspace.
In the 90's we had a complete set of brass tools on the rescue truck for the chemical facility we protected. These were our none sparking tools that our insurance company (IRI) mandated that we carry for use in hazardous environments..i.e. non sparking tools. Each of the other two engines only had a Brass Hydrant wrench, to be used in setting up at a suspected Haz-Mat before we had a complete test of the environment.
It was a fun time for the Shift officer to determine it was time to take out the Brass Tools to play with.
The other two trucks were engines, one with 1000 gallons of foam and no onboard H2O. The other truck had 500 gallons of water and 500 gallons of foam, we had a dedicated water system apart from municipal water solely for building sprinklers and the fire hydrants on sight, the water system had three separate fire pumps with a 500,000 tank reserve of municipal water, the primary electric pump only came on if a sprinkler or hydrant or main break occurred pressure was maintained in all the sprinkler systems by two jockey pumps. If the electric pump couldn't keep up one of the two or both diesels would indicate and commence operation.
It was a fun time for the Shift officer to determine it was time to take out the Brass Tools to play with.
The other two trucks were engines, one with 1000 gallons of foam and no onboard H2O. The other truck had 500 gallons of water and 500 gallons of foam, we had a dedicated water system apart from municipal water solely for building sprinklers and the fire hydrants on sight, the water system had three separate fire pumps with a 500,000 tank reserve of municipal water, the primary electric pump only came on if a sprinkler or hydrant or main break occurred pressure was maintained in all the sprinkler systems by two jockey pumps. If the electric pump couldn't keep up one of the two or both diesels would indicate and commence operation.
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
Whatever you decide, don't get the Harbor Freight one. They just don't hold up well enough to even justify the cheap price. A few jobs and they are pretty much in need of replacement. Some would argue that's a Harbor Freight generalization, but I'm just saying that's the experience I've had across multiple units.
Zeus36
Well-known member
Love to see a picture....
oldschoolcraft
Well-known member
I use beryllium non-sparking hammers because I sublease workshop space in a meth lab. Just kidding! 
RoninB4
Well-known member
As an additional thought, make one from aluminum. I have all sorts of hammers but wanted one for non-mar tapping on delicate components. I made an aluminum head/handle and prefer it sometimes. Good project for someone that just bought a lathe.
chevy.stroker
Well-known member
Another nice addition is the VIM brass, aluminum, plastic tipped air hammer attachments (VIMAH100). The brass works great on bearing races.
southalabama
Well-known member
Walter White signature editionI use beryllium non-sparking hammers because I sublease workshop space in a meth lab. Just kidding!
gatewaysysop
Well-known member
I like ABC Hammers for a Brass. Copper I have a Grace hammer. I've also got a bronze hammer from Lixie. All US-made and so far great build quality. Would recommend any of them for those looking for these types of hammers.
oldschoolcraft
Well-known member
I'm still trying to figure out the specific use cases for Brass versus Copper versus Bronze hammers. And against the advice of a very smart member here (you know who you are), I'm eyeballing buying a lead hammer pretty hard.
I do have brass pin punches for gunsmithing work. Not sure if I should be hitting that with a brass hammer, bronze hammer, copper hammer, or even the lead hammer I want to buy. I only use a brass punch once, and I did mushroom the head slightly, hitting it with a steel hammer. Though perhaps the mushrooming would occur regardless of the hammer material. Though maybe a lead hammer would deform the lead before it deformed the brass punch?
I haven't progressed to doing car work that I'm hammering on anything, but I'm not sure what material hammer to use for that. I do own Mayhew pry bars with metal end caps, I thought I could hit those will steel ball peens but maybe I should be hitting them with a softer metal. Maybe it's always the hammer needs to be a softer metal than the thing I'm hitting but, then what do I use steel hammers for? Hitting diamonds?
I do have brass pin punches for gunsmithing work. Not sure if I should be hitting that with a brass hammer, bronze hammer, copper hammer, or even the lead hammer I want to buy. I only use a brass punch once, and I did mushroom the head slightly, hitting it with a steel hammer. Though perhaps the mushrooming would occur regardless of the hammer material. Though maybe a lead hammer would deform the lead before it deformed the brass punch?
I haven't progressed to doing car work that I'm hammering on anything, but I'm not sure what material hammer to use for that. I do own Mayhew pry bars with metal end caps, I thought I could hit those will steel ball peens but maybe I should be hitting them with a softer metal. Maybe it's always the hammer needs to be a softer metal than the thing I'm hitting but, then what do I use steel hammers for? Hitting diamonds?
Nick Rivers
Well-known member
Brass for precision work
Copper for tougher work
from the web (oilfield related):
"...Brass hammers, crafted from a copper-zinc alloy, boast non-sparking characteristics crucial for tasks in environments rife with flammable gases or liquids. With a composition that prioritizes corrosion resistance, brass hammers find their niche in delicate operations, like valve maintenance or pipeline construction. On the other hand, copper hammers, usually made from pure copper or copper alloys, offer a denser and more forceful impact, making them the go-to choice for heavy-duty tasks such as driving fasteners or breaking down structures. While both materials exhibit non-magnetic properties, brass hammers, with their softer striking surfaces, cater to precision needs, whereas copper hammers, with their enhanced toughness, thrive in more demanding scenarios..."
Copper for tougher work
from the web (oilfield related):
"...Brass hammers, crafted from a copper-zinc alloy, boast non-sparking characteristics crucial for tasks in environments rife with flammable gases or liquids. With a composition that prioritizes corrosion resistance, brass hammers find their niche in delicate operations, like valve maintenance or pipeline construction. On the other hand, copper hammers, usually made from pure copper or copper alloys, offer a denser and more forceful impact, making them the go-to choice for heavy-duty tasks such as driving fasteners or breaking down structures. While both materials exhibit non-magnetic properties, brass hammers, with their softer striking surfaces, cater to precision needs, whereas copper hammers, with their enhanced toughness, thrive in more demanding scenarios..."
- You can use a brass, copper, nylon, or lead hammer for driving brass punches. These will deform the punch less than a steel hammer.
- Brass hammers can be used to knock bearings into place and for other similar applications where a steel hammer would cause damage.
- Auto repair technicians use brass hammers because they don't make a spark when hitting metal. This is extremely important to anyone who uses a hammer near fuel lines.
- Copper hammers tends to chip less than brass hammers
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
oldschoolcraft
Well-known member
To hit a brass punch? I do have one of plastic deadblows already. I didn't realize you could hit punches with them.Have you considered something like this:
You can but you shouldn’t. Could damage the hammer and may not work well.
I was thinking about you guys this past weekend. I was rebuilding the step pulley assembly on my bridgeport. I was using a pin spanner on the large bull gear (for people who care). These spanner nuts retain stacked bearings and can be tight. I was striking the pin spanner with a 32oz deadblow hammer and was having no luck. Switched to my 32oz deadblow ball peen. That worked.
Both hammers weighed the same. Same inertia. But the steel faced hammer produces more shock (force), which I needed to break the static friction (corrosion).
So to get back to the question, you pick the hammer material to:
1) deliver the right type of shock to the work
2) to avoid damage to the struck surface
Harder hammers, solid hammers, produce shock, needed to overcome friction. Deadblow hammers, regardless of the head material, produce less shock. They are generally used to MOVE things.
To replace bearings, you would (I did) use a soft faced hammer. You don’t want shock or concentrated force applied to the bearing.
Before deadblows, workers manipulated shock by selecting hammer head materials. They could choose from steel to bronze to lead, to rawhide. Brass, copper bronze are all non sparking hammers of slightly different hardnesses.
Now with deadblows, you can probably skip bronze and lead hammers unless you have a sparking concern. You can easily manipulate shock by choosing between a solid steel hammer, a dead blow ball peen, and a soft faced deadblow.
All said, hammers are very personal tools and some guys just like what they like.
Lol, if you're using a brass punch why would you need anything other than a small steal "regular" hammer.
You might want a bigger hammer to hit harder. you use a soft hammer to keep from damaging your drift.